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Devils Tower Descent Beta- peer review

Original Post
Where's Walden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 247

Devils Tower Descent Beta on this site is inaccurate. The admin has offered me a chance to update it, but I've only done the raps twice and would like someone to check my work. Anyone care to please review the short blurb below which I will submit to the admins for inclusion? It should do a lot to clear up the tower descent and maybe even speed up ascent time by encouraging the use of a single rope.

"Descent from the summit of the tower is possible on with a single 70 meter rope (or two 60's). No matter what route you take, ALWAYS knot your ends. Rope eating cracks are prevalent on the tower so beware. To descend, find a bolted rap anchor on the south side of the tower (climbers right of Durrance) that is accessed by scrambling 15" down from a large cairn. A 35M rappel will bring you a flat stage in the meadows. From there, you have two main options:

Bowling Alley Rappels: These rappels take you to the large bowl directly below the Durrance, a short hike from the paved trail. To locate the rap line, hike about 20 meters right (west) and slightly down from the flat stage to find a bolted anchor on a large block. From here, three ~34M rappels will bring you to the ground. The final rappel requires about 10 feet of unroped 5.6 downclimbing from a poor stance, so plan accordingly.

Exit Us Rappels: These rappels deposit you on the ledges at the base of TAD and Soler from which you can walk the narrow ledges around west and down to the ground (sketchy when wet). To locate the anchor, from the flat stage hike far down and left (east) to the bottom corner of the meadows. Two 1/2 inch rappel bolts await you. From here, do 3 rappels to the large treed ledge at the base of Soler. Try not to throw your ropes onto parties climbing below."

Neil L · · Lander · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 1

When descending via Exit Us, climbers on el cracko diablo are more likely to get hit with a rope, climbers on  Tad are pretty much put of the way. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Neil and Cassidy wrote: When descending via Exit Us, climbers on el cracko diablo are more likely to get hit with a rope, climbers on  Tad are pretty much put of the way. 

Plus no one climbs TAD...

Eric · · NYC · Joined May 2016 · Points: 25

Thanks for the update, was there this summer and got little use out of the MP descent beta. Glad to have had a guidebook too. The beginning rap from the Meadows into the Bowling Alley is often described as rapping off the "Nose"

Matt Castelli · · Denver · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 280

"From here, do 3-4 rappels to the large treed ledge at the base of Soler." I can't remember if it's three or four, but folks here should clarify that and include it in the update.

Thanks for helping improve the site - I always suspected you could rap w/ one long rope, but never did, 

Keith Noback · · Scottsdale, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 650

Are you sure you want to send folks to that rap by El Cracko? I have seen quite a few stuck ropes there - not just by my incompetent ass, but real climbers who know the Tower. It is also more sketch than people realize and has been the site of at least one fatal accident. I always preferred the rap down Bon Homme Horning.
I'd be curious to hear Frank's opinion on this.

Where's Walden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 247

Keith, if there is another rappel option, please tell us about it. Bonne Homme Rappels? 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Keith Noback wrote: Are you sure you want to send folks to that rap by El Cracko? I have seen quite a few stuck ropes there - not just by my incompetent ass, but real climbers who know the Tower. It is also more sketch than people realize and has been the site of at least one fatal accident. I always preferred the rap down Bon Homme Horning.
I'd be curious to hear Frank's opinion on this.

Are you sure those aren't the bolted belay stations and not rap stations?  I always assumed that those were belays, since if you used them it would interfere with parties actually climbing the route.

Taylor Krosbakken · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 1,086

Photos are always useful.

Here's a good one of the "Meadows Mappels": https://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/upload/Durrance-Route.jpg

and the Exit US rappels: https://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/images/Exit-Us-Rappel.png 

Keith Noback · · Scottsdale, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 650
Buck Rio wrote:

Are you sure those aren't the bolted belay stations and not rap stations?  I always assumed that those were belays, since if you used them it would interfere with parties actually climbing the route.

They are both, and you do have to be sure that you won't interfere with parties on the route, though that is sadly uncommon since the route gets much less traffic than it deserves. There are even intermediate rap stations which would allow you to descend with a single rope.

At least, I think you could, though I have never done it. The intermediate stations are hanging and look unpleasant.
Justin Meyer · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2012 · Points: 47

I think this part "The final rappel requires about 10 feet of 5.6 downclimbing, so plan accordingly." should make it more clear that it will be unroped downclimbing and that the climber will have to be able to transition from rapping to downclimbing while in a somewhat precarious position (if I remember correctly, it has been awhile). For many this will be no problem but for some it could be scary and/or dangerous.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Keith Noback wrote:

They are both, and you do have to be sure that you won't interfere with parties on the route, though that is sadly uncommon since the route gets much less traffic than it deserves. There are even intermediate rap stations which would allow you to descend with a single rope.

At least, I think you could, though I have never done it. The intermediate stations are hanging and look unpleasant.

Last time I was there was a while ago, and after climbing New Wave, Broken Tree we ended up going up to teachers ledge and finishing on Assembly Line and then on to the top. But, we rapped what we thought was the Exit Us, but was actually the top of BHV. Luckily no-one was on it.  We climbed the BHV and Soler the next day.

Keith Noback · · Scottsdale, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 650
Buck Rio wrote:

Last time I was there was a while ago, and after climbing New Wave, Broken Tree we ended up going up to teachers ledge and finishing on Assembly Line and then on to the top. But, we rapped what we thought was the Exit Us, but was actually the top of BHV. Luckily no-one was on it.  We climbed the BHV and Soler the next day.

How did you like the second pitch of Assembly Line? 

If it was a calm day (?!) in NE Wyoming, we would go to the rap next to El Cracko. You just had to watch out for people at the bottom anchor and take care not to throw/pull your rope into the patch of poison ivy. On really windy days, it seemed better to rap Bon Homme. we would carry the rope or pull it after so we could peek over the edge. You could see anyone on the last pitch that way and the rap line goes straight down from the P2 anchor on the column top, so it only shares a short section with the first pitch. If you pull climber's right from the column top and join the ropes with an EDK, the chances of getting them stuck seems low. The meadows rap line was a last resort 'cause: CF.
No matter what, there is some scrambling  around that can feel sketchy (or at least it always felt a little sketchy to me) accessing from the meadows or at the base or both.
Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
Keith Noback wrote:

How did you like the second pitch of Assembly Line? 

If it was a calm day (?!) in NE Wyoming, we would go to the rap next to El Cracko. You just had to watch out for people at the bottom anchor and take care not to throw/pull your rope into the patch of poison ivy. On really windy days, it seemed better to rap Bon Homme. we would carry the rope or pull it after so we could peek over the edge. You could see anyone on the last pitch that way and the rap line goes straight down from the P2 anchor on the column top, so it only shares a short section with the first pitch. If you pull climber's right from the column top and join the ropes with an EDK, the chances of getting them stuck seems low. The meadows rap line was a last resort 'cause: CF.
No matter what, there is some scrambling  around that can feel sketchy (or at least it always felt a little sketchy to me) accessing from the meadows or at the base or both.

Second Pitch was chossy OW/Chimney, but pretty easy compered to the first pitch (P3) we did. 

We scrambled down the meadows to get to the top of BHV, because we either didn't know about or couldn't find the "regular" rap anchors, probably the Meadows.
Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,284

IMHO, the best raps from the top are the west face. 3 (if I remember correctly) 60 meter raps, all with good ledges and then straight to the parking lot. It’s a straight shot down and I think the fastest.  

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 16
jon jugenheimer wrote: IMHO, the best raps from the top are the west face. 3 (if I remember correctly) 60 meter raps, all with good ledges and then straight to the parking lot. It’s a straight shot down and I think the fastest.  

Is there a cairn or anything marking where those raps start? Sounds nice if you brought all your stuff up with you instead of ditching at the base.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

One 70 m rope works fine by Soler, as you mentioned. I remember reading about a possible rope eating crack when pulling one’s rope. Sure enough, it ate our rope. It wasn’t a big deal since we planned on climbing that route anyway. But, it could be an issue if unplanned and in the dark. It might be worth mentioning.

Buying a book usually works better than mopro anyway. 

Ģnöfudør Ðrænk · · In the vicinity of 43 deg l… · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 2
jon jugenheimer wrote: ......ledges and then straight to the parking lot. It’s a straight shot down and I think the fastest.  

I dont think that is a fair assessment.  I'm a senile old man and havent been there in a while but I recall the approaches to the west face have some 5th classing and one rather exposed move and take longer than the durrance approach.  

EDIT: and a boulder field traverse.
Taylor Krosbakken · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 1,086
jon jugenheimer wrote: IMHO, the best raps from the top are the west face. 3 (if I remember correctly) 60 meter raps, all with good ledges and then straight to the parking lot. It’s a straight shot down and I think the fastest.  

Sounds dope, but then you have to bring a second rope . With a single 70 you can take the meadows rappels. I would personally rather do a few more shorter rappels and not bring an extra rope. In this case, I think its just 3 vs 4.  And it also depends on the route I take up and if I leave stuff at the base. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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