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If you aren't climbing, how often can you hangboard?

Original Post
Wesley Neill · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 645

Recent achilles rupture and surgery. I may or may not be able to climb at all for the next 4 months and my annual Thanksending trip is coming up at that same time. I wanna be in top shape when it comes around. I'm beating the crap out a the weights and the pullup bar. Wondering about what's reasonable (or slightly more than reasonable) to do on my hangboard over the course of a given week.  I've been doing every other day on a beginner to intermediate training plan found online. 

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 21

After injuring my ankle I ent three days a week which seemed to produce nice results. I suspect every other day would have been fine with an extra day off here and there as I felt I needed it. And I’m 52.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262

Just look into the anderson brothers for something like this. I know one of them climbs very little and does more training than actual climbing. I like climbing so it doesn't work in my world, but i am sure there is some information in there that would suit your situation.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

Friend went through this with an acl tear over the winter. They found two days off in between the higher volume RCTM repeaters worked best. 

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

If you aren't climbing, how often can you post on MP?

Wesley Neill · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 645

Thanks all. I'll look into the Anderson brothers for sure.

And grog...  as much as one would like. 

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 21
Wesley Neill wrote: Thanks all. I'll look into the Anderson brothers for sure.

And grog...  as much as one would like. 

Weight gain is counterproductive 

Jer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 26
Nick Drake wrote: Friend went through this with an acl tear over the winter. They found two days off in between the higher volume RCTM repeaters worked best. 

+1 but I can do every other day when I do lower volume with minimum edge hangs (10 x 7 sec max holds with 3 min rest)

HBTHREE · · ma · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 30

How long u been climbing? If under 3 yrs ease into hang boarding, I know it's the rage these days but your muscles will develop B4 tendons joints ligaments etc. 

HBTHREE · · ma · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 30

Accidentally posted before saying it def sux being injured, but super sux injuring yourself while already on the couch, good luck

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

imo the answer wouldn't be that different when climbing versus not climbing. I used to do hangboard sessions 2x per week while climbing significant amounts. Then in the off season I don't really do much more than that.... tendons are slow to recover. Hangboard is stressfull. I personnally think your best bet is 2 good session per week.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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