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Need help creating a training plan! I want to climb harder but don't know where to start.

Original Post
Sam Meade · · Denver · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5

I am looking to climb harder... and I am totally lost!
I have climbed a couple 12a's outside but would love to be stronger and more consistent at the grade. I have been climbing (sport) for 1.5 years. I am 6'2 and 150 lb's... so I think some muscle could help.
also, I am significantly weaker on overhanging walls.
Let me know if anyone has advice or any help at all! I can venmo someone 20$ for a personalized workout.
Thanks!
-Sam 

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262

You know your body better than anyone on this website. Might make more sense to read some books on the body, body mechanics, training and training plans rather than pay a stranger who knows nothing about you or how your body reacts to a specific training program. Just food for thought.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

Gumby nailed it. Everyone is different. Really though, for climbing the more you do it the better you will get. The trick is not getting injured. Personally, I do a routine of exercises I have perfected over many years to overcome any tendencies I have for injury.

On a very basic level that includes push ups, shoulder press, squats, french curls and ab work.

Ben Pellerin · · Spaceship Earth · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Hey Sam I've been climbing about as long as you and there are four things that when I started doing them on the regular had a very immediate impact on my climbing. Not saying you should take advice from this noob just sharing what's helping me.

  1. 1. Arc training-  This has made huge improvements on my forearm strength and climbing endurance. Added plus is the down climbing improved my foot placements and movements. Also learned to identify and utilize a good rest stance from arc training.
  2. Bouldering above my grade- I was able to climb V3 when I started but didn't find many of them to be a challenge. I started hopping on V4-5 and within a couple weeks noticed how much it changed how I move/position myself on the rock. Also eliminated my tendency to depend on my height (6'6") to make high steps in order to bypass moves that felt insecure.
  3. Yoga- Yoga a couple times a week has greatly improved my flexibility. Really helping me be able to move my body like I want helping me be able to utilize the body positioning I learned from bouldering.
  4. General fitness- speaks for itself. Push ups sit ups squats planks every day. More core and back strength has given me higher endurance and more strength to climb hard and pull through harder moves.
I'm also in Portland hit me up with a direct message if you wanna climb some time! We can get better together. 
Jake Thomson · · Yosemite · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

Its like 70 or 80 a month to get a training plan from lattice or  ive been working with zach at minbodyclimb.com and think he is amazing at what he does and has similar pricing options.

I think that small amount of money to have someome who knows more than you make a plan for you is worth every penny. The accountability it adds is also invaluable as i know at least for me, when left to my own vices i tend to get lazy.  

And if you do 3 or 4 months you could pick and choose the exersizes and general training ideals you liked and make your own from then on. 

Sam Meade · · Denver · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5

Thanks a ton, I will go check it out!

Becsy Oz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Plus 1 for the suggestion to check out Horst’s ‘Training for climbing’. There is great stuff on his website, in his book, and through his podcasts. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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