Chamonix Climbing Conditions

My partner and I are headed out to Europe for a few weeks and really want to pass through Chamonix to see what it's like and do some longer rock routes. We don't have enough experience with glacier travel to feel comfortable with extended approaches through the snow. Will there be anything accessible through mid may? An ideal route would be something like Voie Frison-Roche. If Chamonix isn't the right call right now do you all have any other suggestions on where else in the Alps we should head? Thanks!

I did that route in early July.  It's on the sunny side of the valley (across from the Mont Blanc / glaciated side) and was completely dry, though we had to walk on a ski run (with snow) to get there after taking the lift up to the general area. I believe the Brevent lift is closed until June (check for exact dates), so that's another reason this route probably isn't ideal.

I've been nearby in Annecy for the last few weeks and it's super snowy up high (though I haven't been to Chamonix) so I bet it's too early.  It snowed several inches last night, all the way to town level.

I'm pretty sure the the Aguille du Midi lift does continue to run in May, and on a warm sunny day you can do the climbs near the top.  Approaches are more serious than those on the Brevent side, but not really all that long.

Nick is right about Chamonix + Aig du Midi around now.

But . . .
really Chamonix Mont Blanc it's the glaciers that make it special.

There's so much great multi-pitch granite in other places in Europe that does not require glacier approach (including Italian side of Mont Blanc) and does not have snow in May.

plus multiple lifetimes of great non-granite.

Give us a hint of what rock type and climbing style you're looking for.

Ken

Not your best choice right now unless you are looking for alpine and mixed lines. Lifts are now closed till 6/15 so you are looking at a long slog up to the Aig Rouges and lots of snow to cross. You can gain access to the many valley crags but you won't find more than a few pitch long routes.

Good luck

Thanks for all the info. It’s encouraged us to reconsider Chamonix for this trip. As for what we’re after, we are really looking for those long granite free climbs - we most enjoy climbing in Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. We bought a small trad rack, but long sport would also be a blast. We would prioritize places closer to Barcelona, but would be fine with about a 10 hour driving radius. Any suggestions are appreciated! 

You can climb sunny granite on the Mont Blanc massif in May. You should check out the Voie Rebuffat Baquet on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi. It's certainly alpine in flavor but the approach and descent are unbeatable. Also, the Pappillon Arete (off the Plan) is a good option for that time of year. There is a lot of sunny granite trad climbing to get into there... I'd also think you'd be fine on the Brevent side pretty soon... 

Cameron Kruse wrote:long granite free climbs - we most enjoy climbing in Yosemite and Tuolumne Meadows. We bought a small trad rack

Why you're flying across a continent plus an ocean with a goal to climb the same kinds of rock as you already have back home, I don't get - (but I'll accept it).

I suspect you'll find lots of worthwhile non-granite m-p routes at higher altitudes in Spain (so closer to Barcelona).

Perhaps the best fit to this "flying across an ocean in order to climb the same thing" strategy might be Valle dell'Orco in NW Italy -- but you're going to need more than a "small" trad rack -- Likewise for most Chamonix granite routes (it does have bolted routes in the Aiguilles Rouges, but that's not granite and it's not really Mont Blanc massif).

Also keep in mind that getting down off many famous routes in Europe requires 45-50 meter rappels (usually accomplished by climbing up with two ropes).

If you like the slabby style of granite like Tuolumne, try around Ailefroide or La Berarde in the northern Ecrins of France. Ultra-classic is the south face of the Aiguille Dibona. Consider a multi-day link-up of Aiguile Sialouze and S ridge of Petit Pelvoux.
But then there's all this interesting quartzite (m-p on Tete d'Aval, plus lots of fun cragging) and limestone (Cerces) and (single-pitch) puddingstone within an hour's drive from the Ailefroide slabs
- - > way more fun climbing than that slabby granite for me -- but what do I know? ... de gustibus non est disputandum.

For non-granite m-p (outside of Spain) the obvious classic spot is Verdon (some say Presles is as good rock but without the "special commitment" of Verdon) -- also could try the Arabesque des Aravis (2-3 day link-up of 5.10 limestone m-p, about an hour SW from Chamonix). Often kinda hot for Calanques classics already in May.

Ken

P.S. Yes I've had fun climbing S-facing alpine granite around Chamonix Mont Blanc in late April last year. But why not save Chamonix for after you've gotten your serious glacier- and snow-approach and bergshrund-crossing capability + equipment -- and at an optimal season -- to enjoy the "full experience" of alpine granite m-p around there (e.g. Refuge de l'Envers, Grand Capucin, Pt Lachenal, Dent du Geant, etc).
. . . (or hire a guide to add that capability).

Thanks for the responses and advice on Chamonix. Although we were really excited to experience the Alps and climb there, we ended up staying in Spain and spending more time at different places around there. It seemed like the right thing to do for the season/conditions and we still got some good long climbing days on crazy conglomerate in places Montserrat.

Thanks again for the advice. Going to keep all this in my back pocket for a future trip!

Great to hear.
I'd love to climb the conglomerate at Montserrat.

Fortunately there's an area of conglomerate / puddingstone in the southern French Alps on the walls of an old fort, a bit south of Briancon on the high Durance river valley -- one of the treats for enterprising climbers who can tear themselves away from the slabby granite at Ailefroide. Some of the routes are named after comglomerate routes + places in Spain.