Tips for Rainier with RMI (the RMI part)

Please be civil/objective.  I realize there are probably plenty of people w/ ties to the guiding services and etc so...be nice whatever your opinion.  I'm using a guide bc my two friends and climbing partners have never been on a glaciated mtn and would prefer it.  I've also never been a part of a crevasse rescue...so I'm happy to climb w/ "the pros."  Doing 2 days up DC in late June '19.

Anyway, a separate topic suggested that RMI (and the others) are VERY strict with the items on their "required gear list."  Specifically, I am "concerned" about my sleeping bag and pack.  They "want" a 0F bag and a 65-70L+ pack.  I plan to be using a WM Alpinlite (20F) and an Osprey Aether 60L.  I do run cold but already typically sleep layered up.  I've been able to "mock pack" everything for a 2 day climb of Rainier (using the hut).  This includes all my gear (including my microtraxion and ascender, not sure if they'll be needed) and food and a little room for more (pickets, some group stuff, stove/fuel).  I can fit it all in my 60L without issue.  I emailed RMI to see if this will fly but no response.  

For those in the know, what other group gear should I plan for?  Will my plan be ok (in reality and in the eyes of the guiding service)?  I don't want to be "that guy" so please help me ID issues now so the pre-climb and climb go smoothly.  Thanks.

Have you tried calling them? (not just e-mail, but phone call) Better to ask RMI than MP.

Edit: When you call, ask to speak to one of the guides. Or to have the guide call you back.

My assumption is that the rumors of their "strictness" is due to the majority of new climbers "thinking" they know better.  I would agree with FrankPS that a phone call, civil conversation, let them know you have thought things through, etc. works.  

I'm planning on heading out to Rainier next summer with IMG.  And I'm an ultraligth BP'er so I am planning on a 45l pack but that's because I've taken my time, conducted research, field tested all my gear and can accomplish the same with just lighter albeit way more expensive, materials.  

Good luck and have a great climb!!!

J

A 20 degree bag should be fine if your cold u sleep with clothes on.  The gear list has to cross all spectrums all the way down to someone who knows nothing about glaciated travel.  It sounds like you have your gear dialed in enough to bring what you need.  Anything extra you can leave at high camp.  It’s a long slog and they stop every hour for a break.  If the weather is nice it’s a great climb if it’s shitty weather well there is nothing you can do about that.  They are the pros up there for sure some of their guides are the best in the business.

Jeffo wrote:I'm planning on heading out to Rainier next summer with IMG.  And I'm an ultraligth BP'er so I am planning on a 45l pack but that's because I've taken my time, conducted research, field tested all my gear and can accomplish the same with just lighter albeit way more expensive, materials.  

And? Have you talked to them about it? Do you have extra room for group gear? I doubt they'll be impressed with your backpacking. 

I personally think a 45L pack is perfect but since you're going with a guide better to sort this out before the climb.

OP you should call RMI and speak to a guide as Frank suggested.

If your are doing a DC climb with them you will be sleeping in the hut. You really don’t *need* a warm bag or room for group gear. RMI is relatively strict and may force you to bring more up than what is necessary (for the safety of their lesser experienced clients, not because they love watching people work lol).

Give them a call and ask. You can always rent on the spot if it is required as well.

You can also bring a sleeping bag liner, there are a number that are rated to the 20 degree difference. It's not a bad item to have in general. 

jdejace wrote:

And? Have you talked to them about it? Do you have extra room for group gear? I doubt they'll be impressed with your backpacking. 

I personally think a 45L pack is perfect but since you're going with a guide better to sort this out before the climb.

OP you should call RMI and speak to a guide as Frank suggested.

I see offering some perspective on the matter was more than you could handle and you felt the need to be a D about it.  Pretty typical of online forums...there's always one.  

Chris C. wrote: If your are doing a DC climb with them you will be sleeping in the hut. You really don’t *need* a warm bag or room for group gear. RMI is relatively strict and may force you to bring more up than what is necessary (for the safety of their lesser experienced clients, not because they love watching people work lol).

Give them a call and ask. You can always rent on the spot if it is required as well.

The warm bag is really for backup if the shit hits the fan and you have an unplanned bivy, in my opinion.

There are no huts at Camp Muir, only shelters. RMI clients stay in the (illegally constructed) Gombu Shelter. RMI likes to call it a hut but it is really a shit hole. The guides want clients to bring a big pack cause it is easier to put their crap in it (i.e. most can't pack efficiently). More over, clients can find their crap in the pack without taking anything out. Which reduces the chances of crap rolling or being blown into a crevasse while on route. Sleeping bag recommendations are seasonal May - 0, July - 20. Clients will not be carrying any group gear. Just their own crap including food and water. The OP will be fine.

Jeffo wrote:

I see offering some perspective on the matter was more than you could handle and you felt the need to be a D about it.  Pretty typical of online forums...there's always one.  

Have you discussed your gear with IMG? 

I will call RMI to discuss as it seems to be best next step. Follow up question, do the guided clients leave anything at Muir or we mule it all up there (otherwise oh crap sleeping bag bivy gets left behind right?). Thanks everybody. 

For the guided groups I saw on Rainier (couldn't tell you which company), the guides looked to be carrying one sleeping bag. I only know this because I saw them pass it off between themselves when one guide had to descend with a couple of the clients (ie the bag went with the guide that was continuing upward). Doubt the clients were carrying one. Another thing to ask RMI, they'll be able to tell you for sure. 

Arthur W wrote: Follow up question, do the guided clients leave anything at Muir or we mule it all up there (otherwise oh crap sleeping bag bivy gets left behind right?). Thanks everybody. 

You will leave your sleeping bags and anything else you haul up to make the night in the shelter comfortable. Pro tip: bring ear plugs, eye shapes, and peppermint oil (put a dab under yer nose, helps with shelter stink).

jdejace wrote: For the guided groups I saw on Rainier (couldn't tell you which company), the guides looked to be carrying one sleeping bag. I only know this because I saw them pass it off between themselves when one guide had to descend with a couple of the clients (ie the bag went with the guide that was continuing upward). Doubt the clients were carrying one. Another thing to ask RMI, they'll be able to tell you for sure. 

When I went, years ago, each person carried their bag. As people crapped out, they were picketed off and left behind until there were enough for a rope team. At that point, teams were shuffled around, and a now freed-up guide turned back and picked them up and took them back to Muir. If I remember correctly, at least one person elected to crawl in their bag while they waited.

Allen Sanderson wrote:

You will leave your sleeping bags and anything else you haul up to make the night in the shelter comfortable. Pro tip: bring ear plugs, eye shapes, and peppermint oil (put a dab under yer nose, helps with shelter stink).

Yep. So much snoring, hacking, rustling, and rummaging around. We had good weather, so I went outside to sleep early on.

Andrew Rational wrote:

When I went, years ago, each person carried their bag. As people crapped out, they were picketed off and left behind until there were enough for a rope team. At that point, teams were shuffled around, and a now freed-up guide turned back and picked them up and took them back to Muir. If I remember correctly, at least one person elected to crawl in their bag while they waited.

The clients were left hanging out mid route?? That kinda sucks. 

jdejace wrote:

The clients were left hanging out mid route?? That kinda sucks. 

I was kind of surprised too, but it is the logical way to do it if someone is just pooped out or scared, not injured or suffering from bad altitude sickness. If you had four teams of four, and four people crapped out, and a guide escorted each of them, you leave eight clients hanging without a guide. This was also 16-17 years ago, so maybe their procedures have changed.

There were a lot of unprepared people on that trip. Two never made it to Muir, two or three never went higher than Muir (they were puking all night from the altitude), and four crapped out before the summit, one just from fear.
Edit: the people who crapped out before or at Muir were escorted down by a guide, who then returned. That particular guide also had the round-trip speed record at the time, and was essentially running back up to Muir. Impressive.

Regarding clients in sleeping bags along the route. Good explanation by Andrew. It is one of the sadist things to see in person. Some poor sap on a pad, tucked into a sleeping, told to stay while teams pass them going up and down. Kinda like a dog tied to a pole outside a steakhouse.

Jeffo wrote: My assumption is that the rumors of their "strictness" is due to the majority of new climbers "thinking" they know better.  I would agree with FrankPS that a phone call, civil conversation, let them know you have thought things through, etc. works.  

I'm planning on heading out to Rainier next summer with IMG.  And I'm an ultraligth BP'er so I am planning on a 45l pack but that's because I've taken my time, conducted research, field tested all my gear and can accomplish the same with just lighter albeit way more expensive, materials.  

Good luck and have a great climb!!!

J

Just an aside, my issue with the packing for big mountains has been volume not weight. The sleeping bag and “winter layers” take up a considerable volume. In my prep now I can (without much struggle) pack everything INSIDE except axe, picket, poles. If I needed a tent and pad that couldn’t happen. 

Arthur W wrote:

Just an aside, my issue with the packing for big mountains has been volume not weight. The sleeping bag and “winter layers” take up a considerable volume. In my prep now I can (without much struggle) pack everything INSIDE except axe, picket, poles. If I needed a tent and pad that couldn’t happen. 

Are you using compression stuff sacks? Those will reduce the bulk/volume a fair amount.