Tips for Rainier with RMI (the RMI part)

Arthur W wrote:

Just an aside, my issue with the packing for big mountains has been volume not weight. The sleeping bag and “winter layers” take up a considerable volume. In my prep now I can (without much struggle) pack everything INSIDE except axe, picket, poles. If I needed a tent and pad that couldn’t happen. 

I hear you.  My sleeping bag or my quilt both pack down very small into pods (hyperlite mountain gear), same with my over-it-all but there's things that just don't compress...like my fleece layers, extra socks, sleeping clothes, multiple sets of gloves, etc.  

I do, as I mentioned earlier, think giving RMI a call and discussing it with them will be the best course of action.  Good luck on your trip...have a blast!

Rope and crampons can go outside. Pad too if it's foam.

At some point though it will come down to

1) bringing less stuff (out of your control with guide service). RMI has a few things I don't bring on their list - bowl, mug, multiple Nalgenes, hardshell pants, gaiters. I don't bring any extra clothes except a 2nd pair of socks. I sleep wearing every layer I have. I used a lightweight 30F-ish bag in early June and thought it was fine, YMMV. 

2) more compact (and likely more expensive) systems. High end layers and sleeping bag/pad, bivy tent instead of expedition tent, Mountain House style meals and energy bars/gels instead of real food etc...

FWIW many people don't use stuff sacks and I don't personally find them helpful. Stuffable things just get crammed in the pack so they fill out all the nooks and crannies.

FrankPS wrote:

Are you using compression stuff sacks? Those will reduce the bulk/volume a fair amount.

Yes that's the only way to get it all in with room to spare.  When "general backpacking" I typically leave my bag shoved in the bottom of my pack.
I use the same pods of extra clothes (which is really extra socks, beanie, gloves) for such a short climb no need to change clothing.  No way I could get my sleeping bag in an HMG pod though; it's in a compression sack (I think 7L).  I'm able to (with some care) get my crampons and my harness tucked into my helmet which both go inside.  Crampons go in one of those white USPS mail bags with the tear resistant fabric (free!).  All my food (not water) fits in the brain (in a HMG pod), mountain lunch in pockets.  I"m undecided on "camp shoes" I'll probably skip them.

Also curious about this 

Doing a 3 day guided ascent with Alpine Ascents Sept 2020. They recommend 55-70 liter pack. I’m a fat bear not a garden gnome like some of you guys and they do mandate stuff I wouldn’t normally carry such as insulated belay pants but not expected to carry most food or cooking gear and having done multi-day camping trips with all the common gear including bear canister and ancient heavy foam pad in a 38L pack it’s hard to imagine needing more than a 52L bag.

Maybe if its warmer than expected and I tried to carry my Spantiks inside the bag for some reason?