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Dark Passenger in Moab

Original Post
Mel Groves · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Saw a pic of it yesterday and fell in love. Wow. Wow. I must climb it.

Tell me your experience. 

smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

You should hit up Pam for beta. She’s awesome!! Her Mp handle is Shanti. 

Mel Groves · · Boulder · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

She's the one I saw in the pic!!

Aaron Livingston · · Ouray, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 330

Right side of Deadman's Buttress in Long Canyon. 1st pitch has a bolted face section to get you into the crack.

The kill artist is directly left. Someone chopped the bolt at the block.

Christopher Buckley · · Yomitan, Okinawa · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 76

Anyone know where I can get the full details of this route? I'm not seeing it here on MP. Anyone familiar with which guidebook or elsewhere I can see further info?

Matthew Tangeman · · SW Colorado · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,128
Christopher Buckleywrote:

Anyone know where I can get the full details of this route? I'm not seeing it here on MP. Anyone familiar with which guidebook or elsewhere I can see further info?

It's not in any guidebook that I'm aware of. If you get to Deadman's Buttress (plenty of info out there for that), it's hard to miss. You can even spot it from the road. First two pitches are like 11+/12- ish if I remember right, though the second (the famous OW pitch) can also be climbed as a hand crack at an easier grade. Then another pitch or two of deep chimney groveling to the top. There are bolted anchors at least on the first two pitches.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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