Best jacket for multipitch?

Warm and cool..

Any small packable windbreaker, the cheaper the better. 

OR Ferrosi, I swear it's somehow comfortable for both climbing AND belaying in the same conditions.

BD alpine start is A+

You're going to get 10 different recommendations. In the end, you'll still have to decide for yourself.

Chimney Dyl wrote: Any small packable windbreaker, the cheaper the better. 

tyvek

Drederek wrote:

tyvek

http://blog.gossamergear.com/tip-of-the-week-make-a-hooded-tyvek-rain-jacket-and-chaps-for-under-10

It might be worth talking about what multipitch you’re doing. For example your chance of random rain coming in is much greater in Yosemite than Red Rock or El Potrero Chico, so you might want to adjust your jacket picks based on that.

Costco got some good ones. Moisture wicking with some stretch too. Easy on the pocketbook 

Warm and dry: OR Whirlwind Hoody
Packs into own pocket with gear clip loop, wind resistant, lightweight

Cool and dry or a little wet: Rab Xenon
Warm, lightweight, packs into own pocket with gear clip loop, windproof, water resistant

If it could storm, bring a proper rain shell. The Marmot essence is super light and has a breathable membrane, but you'll have to get a stuff sack for it.

TAGG C wrote: BD alpine start is A+

5 years in, probably been with me on nearly a thousand pitches. Lots of ski touring. Still going strong with zero complaints. 

FrankPS wrote: You're going to get 10 different recommendations. In the end, you'll still have to decide for yourself.

And yours is the most valuable.

Maximilian Tagher wrote: It might be worth talking about what multipitch you’re doing. For example your chance of random rain coming in is much greater in Yosemite than Red Rock or El Potrero Chico, so you might want to adjust your jacket picks based on that.

Very good point! Seeking a jacket as an all-rounder. My last MP was in a place hot in the day yet cold in the nights/windy. I used my Rab power stretch pro fleece jacket which was super great but less wind resistant than I wanted. Also obv no rain protection so I got really soaked....

Another vote for the BD Alpine Start Hoody. Best lightweight jacket I've used. Same story as above-- 4ish years of use and abuse; still going strong. It's always in my pack or on my harness, regardless of what the forecast says. Nice bonus is that it saves wear and tear on your down jacket if you use it as a shell while climbing.

-Warm for its weight.
-Good at stopping wind.
-Some rain repellent (sprayed my with DWR to up this).
-Packs down teeny-tiny.
-Stretches well if you need to bulk of up layers under it.
-Breathes well when active.

I get they want it to be as light as possible, but I do wish it had pockets.

I ended up with a Houdini from Patagonia and that works great for lightweight summer. Also got the Pro Lite Hoody but might be a bit heavy.

Rab torque is my favorite.

I'm a fan of the OR Ferrosi if the weather forecast is mostly dry.  It won't hold up to heavy rains but it's tough, affordable, takes the bite out of the wind, breathes very well, and moves very well.

If real rain is a possibility,  the windbreakers are going to let you down big-time, and they don't really insulate either.  I'm more worried about hypothermia in summer storm conditions than any of the usual comfort considerations (maybe because of some bad personal experiences), and I don't think there is a single piece that does the job.  I go with a light insulation piece like the Rab Vapourise Lite and a super-light rain shell like the OR Helium.  Together and/or separately, you get a lot of versatility.

Recently, Rab has come out with an item that claims to have the softness and breathability of a softshell with the waterproofness of a hardshell.  if the claims pan out, and if you insist on only one item, this sounds like the ticket.  Perhaps someone who has used one will weigh in... rab.equipment/us/kinetic-al…

If temperatures are a part of the concern high on a wall then I'll add my OR Ascendant insulator to my pack.  It packs small and wears well.  It's a really versatile piece that pairs well with a really light shell.  I imagine almost any Alpha Direct jacket is going to be equally glorious but I have several friends that have tried on my Ascendant and then bought their own.  They agree that they could live in that one piece 24/7.

I really like Marmot hybrid ski jacket Marmot Variant.

I find it really hard to have a jacket that is light enough and warm enough so depending on the weather I wear either the Pro Hoody or my Rab Fleece + windproof. I also always wear a baselayer no matter the temperature (unless it's Zion and hot AF).