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Ascend a rope with an ATC guide??

Original Post
Corey McD · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 55
Curious to know what people think of this. I was working through some different rescue scenarios and thought that I usually climb multi pitch routes with just an ATC however many of the rescue techniques require a Grigri or an ascender. I tried to ascend the rope with this set up and a prusic located above it on the same line. The prusic was extended to a foot loop for me to stand up on so I could take in the slack at the ATC. It worked really well. Of course, I was backed up on a different line with a Grigri while I was experimenting.  My thoughts are that the break strand is usually parallel with the climbers strand when the ATC is set up in guide mode from above. In my example the break strand is not parallel and I suppose with enough weight pulling on the break strand it may actually open up the ATC guide. But then again, wouldn’t it just bite off on the teeth and act like a regular ATC with weight on the break strand?null
Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

I've seen it done before. 

N Nelsen · · Thornton, NH · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 140

This is a very accepted use of the device. It is a very useful skill to know if you've rappelled farther than you want and need to quickly transition to ascend back up a bit. This transition is made substantially easier if you make the habit of extending your rappel, this way you can just clip the teacup handle on the device to your belay loop and the rappel extension merely becomes slack. If the rappel is not extended now you have to open up the carabiner that the rope is running through to orient the device as is shown in the OP's pictures, not ideal even with a bight of rope clipped to the harness as a backup to this maneuver. 

Sebastian Reichelt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

My biggest concern would be that the carabiner on the right isn't locked. Not trying to be picky; it's safety-critical in this case.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

You're going to have to do some shenanigans to get that "teacup handle" loop (love that term!) to your belay loop if it's extended above you in a weighted rappel. If you've fallen off while following a pitch ("I've fallen and can't get up!"), there's going to be no easy way to get the slack and free hands you'll need to get the ATC on the rope. But if you need to jug a rope for some foreseen reason, yup, it's legit. You might even be able to redirect the brake strand through a biner on the prusik you have on the rope above you, as is so easily done when using a Grigri on the harness in the analogous fashion. Pulling down on that rope gives a bit of mechanical advantage to boot.

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

It's doable, but I have a really hard time pulling slack through as I ascend. Like you, I will use a prussic to stand up on. Every few feet I'll drop a half-hitch loop as a stopper, not absolute, but something.

Corey McD · · Arvada, CO · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 55
Sebastian Reichelt wrote: My biggest concern would be that the carabiner on the right isn't locked. Not trying to be picky; it's safety-critical in this case.
It’s locked, the exposed part is the hinge. 
Thanks for the comments. It’s good to learn another skill. 
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Way over kill all you really need is a single biner, atc is just getting in the way!

PatMas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40

Practice getting it into that position while on rappel. (Obviously close to the ground, and you have to rappel with it extended and then bring the ‘teacup’ to your belay loop)

It sucks if you need to go very far, but 15ft back up to a belay station you passed, it can be super useful.

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191
ViperScale . wrote: Way over kill all you really need is a single biner, atc is just getting in the way!

Please explain, a newb wants to learn.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

“Brake” strand.

Carry on.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175
Dallas R wrote:

Please explain, a newb wants to learn.

Munter, Ye maggot

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191
Ocalslay Onlyyay wrote:

Munter, Ye maggot

Thanks, I thought there might be more.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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