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How fast should I be progressing?


Original Post
Maxwell McGaffin · · Rockwall, TX · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

I just started climbing about 2 years ago and was just wandering how fast other people progressed when they first started. I do mainly gym climbing and have been outside a few times (which is kind of hard because I live in Texas and the closest climbing is 2 hours away). I am currently bouldering about V7-8. Please say wether you climb inside or outside, how often you climb, and how old you are. Thanks for the responses!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,800

Sorry, but I refuse to play.  Everyone progresses at their own rate. It's the same in all demanding sports.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 127

Don't should on yourself. There is no "should".

s.price · · Pagosa Springs · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,346

Too many variables for an answer Maxwell. It really doesn't matter.
If you are having a good time then you are progressing.

FWIW, I climb outdoors and am 55.

Stephen C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0

Every individual is different. Some people progress very quickly and keep progressing. Some people progress very quickly and then plateau with no improvement for years. Some people don't progress quickly, but over time continue to progress and will often be stronger/better climbers than the super quick progression/plateau climber. Progressing to solid v7 or v8 in a couple years is good. I'm also assuming you're talking about rock climbing and not gym (which doesn't count even a little bit).

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

Sharma was leading 13's in ~3 years. One of my partners has climbed 45 years and led his first 5.9 last year. Both are happy. Shouldn't should, enjoy joy.

Jake wander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 185

faster

or slower

or the same

one of the three

Nathan Z · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 1
Stephen C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Muscrat wrote: Sharma was leading 13's in ~3 years. One of my partners has climbed 45 years and led his first 5.9 last year. Both are happy. Shouldn't should, enjoy joy.

Dave Graham sent 5.14 his first year of climbing so this is a good comparison of difference in progression. I think Chris Sharma started younger though...

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Some people are just happy to climb. Some can never live up to themselves.

sDawg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

As a self coached climber, my metric for a successful gym session is that I want to go back soon. I recommended this to my sister for her son too. I am 35 and climb outdoors 2-6 days per month. He is 3 and climbs outside never. I am thinking you might be in between on both scales so it might work for you too. 

Redyns · · PA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 80

if i were you, i'd bag it and take up delivering for Caviar or antiquing.  If you can't climb V10 on plastic in your first year, you'll never get invited to purchase Friction Labs at a slightly discounted price, let alone a pro-deal on Evolvs.

Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 85

Easy!  (A-B)/[(C-D)/E]*[log(100-F)^G]*H

A: goal
B: status
C: current grade
D: start grade
E: time climbing
F: age
G: mean days per week climbed
H: shoe size

Adam Ronchetti · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 15
Forrest Carver wrote: Easy!  (A-B)/[(C-D)/E]*[log(100-F)^G]*H

A: goal
B: status
C: current grade
D: start grade
E: time climbing
F: age
G: mean days per week climbed
H: shoe size

I feel this should somehow include the variables I and J where I = average number of beers drunk per day and J = average number of tacos eaten per day. 

s.price · · Pagosa Springs · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,346

I realize most here are just having some fun with their responses.
This question was asked by a young, enthusiastic and curious climber.
Please don't turn this into a MP crapfest.

Albert B · · Burlington, VT · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 5

Hey Max!

I started climbing 6 months ago and was able to climb all of the 5.6’s. Now I can climb all the 5.9’s.

grog m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Im 26, have been climbing for 10 years. Never climbed a V8 before. 

Floyd Eggers · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 341

I started climbing when I was 536112000 seconds old. Now I am 946080000 seconds old... I can climb at V(a=4+1^{2(12^3)/562})

MrZ · · Colorado · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 270
Albert B wrote: Hey Max!

I started climbing 6 months ago and was able to climb all of the 5.6’s. Now I can climb all the 5.9’s.

ALL the 5.9's and 5.6's?!?!?! Dat's a lot 

s.price · · Pagosa Springs · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,346

Here's my progression Maxwell.
Started climbing at 17. Bouldering.
Was sending V4 in 3 months. Moved on to trad mostly up at East Animas.
In my early 20s moved on to peaks. South America, Alaska, Mexico, and started ticking off the 14ers here in the states. Finished those off last year.

In 1987 I came upon Penitente Canyon. Then Indy Pass which were both embracing sport climbing. Boulder as well. I was 25 and climbing 5.12, frequently onsite. Trad was 5.11.

At 38 I achieved my first 5.13 onsite.

At 53 I sent V10 in Bishop.

Progression is so personal. Wish I had a good answer for you Maxwell. Just not possible.

Maxwell McGaffin · · Rockwall, TX · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0
Gunkiemike wrote: Sorry, but I refuse to play.  Everyone progresses at their own rate. It's the same in all demanding sports.

I guess I was just hoping for a way to predict what I will be able to climb in a few years but thanks anyway for the response!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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