Beginner big wall

Hey y'all,

After a brief stint away from climbing due to a shoulder surgery, I am back with a craving to go higher than single pitch. I'm still relatively new in the world of trad, but I'm starting to look for a big wall trip to go on in a few weeks. I would love an easier multi-day climb, as my climbing partner and I are itching to try some portaledges we got ahold of.

Where should I go?

Edit:

By "relatively new", I mean I have been Trad Climbing for a year and a half and am comfortable trad climbing up to a 5.10. I say relatively new because I haven't done any big wall, and don't have the years of experience some of y'all do. I am going with an ex-Everest guide who taught climbing at my University for years, and I'm comfortable with all the techniques I'll need. I'm literally just looking for recommendations on easier multi-day climbs to get a feel for it.   

moonlight buttress ;)

How much knowledge do you have about big wall climbing? How much experience do you have with multipitches? I'm not a bigwall climber myself, but bigwalls should not be the immediate next step from single pitch. Especially if you are still "relatively new" to trad climbing.

Jake W wrote: 
...I am back with a craving to go higher than single pitch. I'm still relatively new in the world of trad, but I'm starting to look for a big wall trip to go on in a few weeks. I would love an easier multi-day climb, as my climbing partner and I are itching to try some portaledges we got ahold of.

You're new to trad but you want to go on a bigwall complete with ledge and hauling in a few weeks? good luck with that.

The pink one in the corner, 300 laps.

Big B wrote: moonlight buttress ;)

kevin deweese wrote: You're new to trad but you want to go on a bigwall complete with ledge and hauling in a few weeks? good luck with that.

When I say new to Trad, I mean I have been trad climbing for a year and a half consistently, own 2 full racks, and am comfortable trad climbing 5.10's, I say beginner because I haven't done any big wall. 

Jake W wrote:Hey y'all,

After a brief stint away from climbing due to a shoulder surgery, I am back with a craving to go higher than single pitch. I'm still relatively new in the world of trad, but I'm starting to look for a big wall trip to go on in a few weeks. I would love an easier multi-day climb, as my climbing partner and I are itching to try some portaledges we got ahold of.

Where should I go?

With A blown shoulder no less! ohman nawaimeen, wheres that Wootwoodson sandbox guy when he is needed? Is there a signal or something?
( my posts used to draw him in like A fly to....sh... like a month to a flame:+D)

Andrew Child wrote: How much knowledge do you have about big wall climbing? How much experience do you have with multipitches? I'm not a bigwall climber myself, but bigwalls should not be the immediate next step from single pitch. Especially if you are still "relatively new" to trad climbing. 

By relatively new, I mean I've been trad climbing for a year and a half. I say relatively new because I haven't done any big wall. 

Just to add Y G D

Big B wrote: moonlight buttress ;)

I actually was considering doing Moonlight. Aiding it of course   

Jake W wrote: By relatively new, I mean I've been trad climbing for a year and a half. I say relatively new because I haven't done any big wall. 

Have you done multi pitches though? Anything long, like 6+ pitches? Do you know how to aid climb (at least C1 or C2)? How to haul? How to poop on a wall? These are all things that are probably prerequisites to bigwalls.

To answer the question, I found the West Face of Leaning Tower to be a good first big wall climb. If the smoke settles by the time you are going.

Try a couple multipitch climbs with all the gear that you would bring on a big wall climb to get a feel for the system. Try find climbs that are too hard to free climb, that will force you to aid. Unpopular climbs are preferable because it's gonna be slow the first time...

Jake W wrote: I actually was considering doing Moonlight. Aiding it of course   

I can't tell if you're in on the joke or not....

Andrew Child wrote:

Have you done multi pitches though? Anything long, like 6+ pitches? Do you know how to aid climb (at least C1 or C2)? How to haul? How to poop on a wall? These are all things that are probably prerequisites to bigwalls.

Yeah, I've done up to 17 pitches on Sport, and 10 on Trad. I do know how to aid climb, but only up to a C2 (I'm not great at it). And I actually am the climbing TA at my university, and actually help to teach others how to eat, poop, and manage gear on multi pitch   . I did a dry run a couple weeks ago just on a 2 pitch climb, hauling the gear, setting up the portaledge and cooking lunch, etc. 

Jake W wrote:

Yeah, I've done up to 17 pitches on Sport, and 10 on Trad. I do know how to aid climb, but only up to a C2 (I'm not great at it). And I actually am the climbing TA at my university, and actually help to teach others how to eat, poop, and manage gear on multi pitch   . I did a dry run a couple weeks ago just on a 2 pitch climb, hauling the gear, setting up the portaledge and cooking lunch, etc. 

Thanks for the clarification. Your original post as well as your MP profile made it sound like you were getting in way over your head.

Peter J wrote:

I can't tell if you're in on the joke or not....

If I was good enough to climb Moonlight Buttress, I wouldn't be posting here to find something to climb   

I would say avoid popular free climbs if you plan to go slow. Sounds like you have your basics though! good luck!

Keep in mind that grades on walls (at least in yosemite) can be more sandbagged than single pitch climbs and you may be shit at the area's style, so go get in some short free climbs a couple grades above what you may encounter on the wall before you pack your pig.

Jake W wrote:Yeah, I've done up to 17 pitches on Sport, and 10 on Trad. I do know how to aid climb, but only up to a C2 (I'm not great at it). And I actually am the climbing TA at my university, and actually help to teach others how to eat, poop, and manage gear on multi pitch   . I did a dry run a couple weeks ago just on a 2 pitch climb, hauling the gear, setting up the portaledge and cooking lunch, etc. 

Andrew Child wrote:

Thanks for the clarification. Your original post as well as your MP profile made it sound like you were getting in way over your head.

Well that changes things - The advise to work up to Leaning Tower, is the old school way.... 

David Bruneau · 26 mins ago · St. John ·                                                                                                                                                                                                                      To answer the question, I found the West Face of Leaning Tower to be a good first big wall climb. If the smoke settles by the time you are going.

Try a couple multipitch climbs with all the gear that you would bring on a big wall climb to get a feel for the system. Try find climbs that are too hard to free climb, that will force you to aid. Unpopular climbs are preferable because it's gonna be slow the first time...

Check out this. South Face - WA Column It's overnighter if you're like normal people, and then summit the 2nd day. No need for a portal edge though....

Careful in yose right now unless you like inhaling the smoke of a thousand trees  (and BBQ'd cute little forest animals).