Who makes a Dynamic Cordellette?

Nobody that I'm aware of, but feel free to make your own and test for yourself why it's not really a thing.

The short cord length or travel distance of a dynamic part of a cordelette wouldn't absorb that much energy. The knot is likely to absorb more than the material itself.

a cordellette is often used to extend over a ledge. Dynamic rope is a really poor choice for this for wear reasons.

My anchor only really needs to hold a fall, not a whole car.

Is this actually a problem? Has anyone heard of an anchor that was endangered because someone climbed as high as possible while cloved in, got the entire anchor to be fully upwardly loaded (which means there wasn't anyone else hanging on the masterpoint), and then whipped onto their anchor with a short tether -- causing pieces to pull or organs to be injured?

As soon as the dynamic rope involved is notably longer than the anchor's length (which should take no time at all for the leader), you're basically back in well known factor two territory. Even a 100% static cordolette anchor is proportionately negligible for leader falls.

A Mazda Miata is about 10.2 kN. I regret to inform you that often anchors can hold both falls and whole cars, and that full sized cams are rated to hold Toyota Camrys.

King Tut wrote:

Average cordellette is about 20 feet. Dynamic rope stretch is, at most, 30% under FF2 loads. Static Rope stretch is about 10%. Delta of that is 20%. So under a FF2 situation a 20 foote cordellette might stretch 4 feet more than dynamic. Not sure how much differenced that's going to make. If it really bothers you there are plenty of 7 to 8 mm dynamic half-ropes that would make a nice cordellette.

Even more to the point, if they were going to fail because of lack of stretch, the Alps would be littered with dead climbers. 

The amount of stretch that a dynamic rope provides reduces forces nearly 50% and will distribute them far better (as the rope stretches it shares load with the other pieces).

If a Cordellette is a "thing" to be used to improve distribution of forces then conceivably it should be made out of dynamic rope unless "handling issues" legitimately override those concerns.

Don't confuse established practice with what might be a lot better?

Dunno, waiting for the sharpies to weigh in (Jim Titt and rgold). I could be way off here which is why I was hoping for discussion. :)

King Tut wrote:

Get a thin twin/double rope.  Sterling has a 7.8mm dynamic.  Use it up, then cut a section for your cordelette if you like those things.

For me, I'll stick with a double runner and the rope for building my anchors.  

TBH, I don't have the slightest use for a Cordellette. 

The point is to get the AMGA Cordellette fanbois thinking....

Jake Jones wrote:

Couldn't you just get a small length of double or twin rope and make one out of that?  If you're looking for sub 7mm, idk, but I don't think that anyone makes anything kernmantle dynamic that small.  Could be wrong though.  It's been known to happen haha.

Went looking for 7-9mm dynamic cord being sold by the foot the other day for a variety of toys....its rare as hen's teeth to find it by the foot.

ie wanted some 9mm by the foot for a Petzl connect adjust...no could find :(.

King Tut wrote:

Who makes a Cordellette out of dynamic rope?

Because until they are widely available, a Cordellette is trash...

Trying to think of circumstances where someone lamented "If only my anchor was made of dynamic cordellette!"

None come to mind.

You can lead a horse to water...but you can't make him drink lol.

http://www.beal-planet.com/en/express-anneaux-sangles/412-longe-dynamique-dynaloop.html

Is this out because it's sewn shut?

R Aviv wrote:

http://www.beal-planet.com/en/express-anneaux-sangles/412-longe-dynamique-dynaloop.html

Is this out because it's sewn shut?

Not at all. 

Especially because it has this very good chart that explains precisely why its a good idea:

King Tut wrote:

Bluewater did and I got one from them.

Howard wrote:

Bluewater did and I got one from them.

Bluewater still makes dynamic cord that you could use for a cordellette.

If you must have a dynamic anchor, carry a few of these.

Am I missing something? With enough lead rope payed out for your feet to be above the anchor it would already be a moot point whether or not the anchor cordalette is dynamic or not. I can think of scenarios where this could matter but they're all contrived and ridiculous. Like what are you going to do, build a belay anchor mid crux on your project and fall 1 foot out? Decide your belay stance would be cozier if you were a foot higher than then anchor, then fall?

TCC wrote:

Bluewater still makes dynamic cord that you could use for a cordellette.

+ every other rope manufacturer.

I suffered a reduction of brain cells as a result of reading this thread.

King Tut wrote:

Considering my local crag involves anchors made on the tops of boulders/domes, no thanks.  I don't want something stretching and rubbing constantly.

You're not trad climbing if you're not climbing full pitches. So bring the cordalette. 

Howard wrote:

+ every other rope manufacturer.

Tell me more about who sells them by the foot. I'm all ears. :)