"In direct" is not a climbing command, it's a status update!

I heard another party using it when I was a new climber. I asked my experienced partner what it meant and he explained that it meant that the climber was clipped in to the anchor. I asked "so it's the same as off belay?" He said not always, but the problem is that some people think it is the same as "off belay' and that's why he recommended never using it.

It is not confusing. “In direct” simply means that the climber is clipped directly into hardware. It is a courtesy to the belayer, especially during dogging sessions, and NEVER means “of belay.”

Astrid Rey wrote:

 I asked "so it's the same as off belay?" He said not always,

Exactly, this is why I think its a crazy phrase to use.  It means different things to different people.  My partner said its so I could relax a minute while he fiddles with the anchor.  Why do I need to relax.  I would venture to guess that most climbing accidents especially sport climbing accidents happen at the anchor and the last thing I need to be doing while my partner is at the anchor is relaxing.

Frank Stein wrote:

It is not confusing. “In direct” simply means that the climber is clipped directly into hardware. It is a courtesy to the belayer, especially during dogging sessions, and NEVER means “of belay.”

Why does it even need to be announced?  Ive belayed or climbed through thousands of "dogging sessions" and have never felt the need to know or communicate that.  The climber can go in direct and not communicate that to the belayer and it doesn't change a single thing.  Why are people so hung up on the comfort of the belayer? 

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Why does it even need to be announced?  Ive belayed or climbed through thousands of "dogging sessions" and have never felt the need to know or communicate that.  The climber can go in direct and not communicate that to the belayer and it doesn't change a single thing.  Why are people so hung up on the comfort of the belayer? 

Because shit happens during marathon belay sessions. A dog gets into your pack, have to fight off a pack pack of angry squirrels, gastro-intestinal emergency, need to eat a sandwich, etc...

Frank Stein wrote:

Because shit happens during marathon belay sessions. A dog gets into your pack, have to fight off a pack pack of angry squirrels, gastro-intestinal emergency, need to eat a sandwich, etc...

In direct does not release you from your belay duties to deal with those issues. Only off belay releases you from those duties.

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

Why does it even need to be announced?  Ive belayed or climbed through thousands of "dogging sessions" and have never felt the need to know or communicate that.  The climber can go in direct and not communicate that to the belayer and it doesn't change a single thing.  Why are people so hung up on the comfort of the belayer? 

In reference to hangdogging it's nice to go indirect if I just whipped and my partner lowered off a boulder or walked backwards to help me jug up.  It allows them to get back into their belay position.  I don't actually know how much impact it has but I've also always been under the impression that it's a lot easier on the rope to not be under tension.  Telling my partner I'm indirect allows them to either move into a better position or give a little slack to save the rope.  It is just a status update, not a command, but within my circle of climbers it means they can relocate

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

  The climber can go in direct and not communicate that to the belayer and it doesn't change a single thing.  Why are people so hung up on the comfort of the belayer? 

It isn’t only used for comfort of the belayer.  It is often more comfortable for the climber that is clipped in direct.  It also allows the climber to move a round and feel other holds without fighting the tension of the rope.  And if you are out projecting a pitch that might take 45 min to an hour, I think making your belayer a bit more comfortable is advantageous for the climber in the long run.  And usually I end up being the belayer half the day and  I appreciate the comfort and the ability to drink some water or eat a snack.

I’d say pretty much every partner I climb with goes in direct to a bolt when the rest period is going to be pro longed. And they use the term “in direct.” Pretty standard communication amongst serious sport climbers.

Another time it is important to use the command  is after a climber has taken a fall and pulled back up to the high point.  Often the belayer will slowly walk away from the base of the wall to assist the climber to get back to the high bolt.  This means the belayer might end up 15 or 20 ft away from the wall.  Generally the climber would clip in direct and the belayer would then walk back to the base of the wall while pulling in the slack.  Standard procedure at a lot of crags.

Also in my peer group it isn’t uncommon to say in direct at the anchor of a sport climb.  Never have I heard the term used in place of “off belay” and if I saw a belayer take the leader off belay after hearing that, I would quickly intervene and question if they were 100% positive that is what the leader wanted.   I’m also not scared to talk to strangers and alert them if I see something that I perceive as potentially dangerous.  

climber pat wrote:

In direct does not release you from your belay duties to deal with those issues. Only off belay releases you from those duties.

I certainly hope that I’m not taken off belay when I’m hanging 80’ up a route. But, going “in direct” does allow the belayer to give me a little slack, close the pack off from the marauding dog, battle the angry squirrel, and eat a sandwich. Plus, all the other stuff where it may be preferable to the climber to hang without having tension on the rope. 

Mikey Schaefer wrote:

It isn’t only used for comfort of the belayer.  It is often more comfortable for the climber that is clipped in direct.  It also allows the climber to move a round and feel other holds without fighting the tension of the rope.  And if you are out projecting a pitch that might take 45 min to an hour, I think making your belayer a bit more comfortable is advantageous for the climber in the long run.  And usually I end up being the belayer half the day and  I appreciate the comfort and the ability to drink some water or eat a snack.

I’d say pretty much every partner I climb with goes in direct to a bolt when the rest period is going to be pro longed. And they use the term “in direct.” Pretty standard communication amongst serious sport climbers.

Another time it is important to use the command  is after a climber has taken a fall and pulled back up to the high point.  Often the belayer will slowly walk away from the base of the wall to assist the climber to get back to the high bolt.  This means the belayer might end up 15 or 20 ft away from the wall.  Generally the climber would clip in direct and the belayer would then walk back to the base of the wall while pulling in the slack.  Standard procedure at a lot of crags.

Also in my peer group it isn’t uncommon to say in direct at the anchor of a sport climb.  Never have I heard the term used in place of “off belay” and if I saw a belayer take the leader off belay after hearing that, I would quickly intervene and question if they were 100% positive that is what the leader wanted.   I’m also not scared to talk to strangers and alert them if I see something that I perceive as potentially dangerous.  

The problem is, single pitch crag peeps assume in direct (from the anchor) will immediately be followed by off belay. It's only very very recently that many of us started to routinely clean to lower. There's still a heavy assumption that people will rappel to "save the hardware" even as ASCA is placing mussy hooks.

Only this weekend, I watched an experienced climber who was coaching a newer guy, ask the climber if he was in direct, as he got to the anchor. The climber said yes, and the "mentor" immediately took him off belay. There was never a command for off belay.

Now, in fairness, they were running laps on this single pitch, and practicing rappels. It had all been talked through. 

Still...

I'm in the camp of keeping that rope in the device until that command happens. That includes feeding half a rope worth of slack up to my climber, when he forgot to say off belay. He pointed out it was obvious he was rappeling. I pointed out it was now obvious he forgot an important command, lol!

All the above is the local single pitch crag, not long stuff where you can't see or hear.

Mikey, thanks for being on here, btw!

Best, Helen

EDIT to add, I have asked my climber to clip in direct, when I needed to reposition, more than just walking around some. Sometimes, it means self belaying myself up to a better belay on top of a big boulder or column for the rest of the climb, when the first bolt is basically above a solo boulder problem.

Jeremy Bauman wrote:

I'm glad this is getting brought up. A big pet peeve of mine is unnecessary communication. IMO: the only times a climber should be yelling commands is when they want a specific action done. 

Unnecessary communication almost killed my wife. She was in the process of on-sighting a route in a new-to-us area and yelled “this hold is bomber!”

I didn’t exactly know what she wanted me to do so I took her off belay and yelled “off belay”.

Luckily there were people nearby that helped me   Get her back on belay.

Mark Kusnir wrote:

I didn’t exactly know what she wanted me to do so I took her off belay and yelled “off belay”.

LOL wut

Old lady H wrote:

The problem is, single pitch crag peeps assume in direct (from the anchor) will immediately be followed by off belay. 

It is not a problem, because what you are describing is not a thing. 

Perhaps that's how you were taught, or what you encountered, but that is plainly wrong.

Mark Kusnir wrote:

Unnecessary communication almost killed my wife. She was in the process of on-sighting a route in a new-to-us area and yelled “this hold is bomber!”

I didn’t exactly know what she wanted me to do so I took her off belay and yelled “off belay”.

*That* was your take-away from that incident???? WTF?

Old lady H wrote:

I'm in the camp of keeping that rope in the device until that command happens. 

i didn't think there was a camp that thought the opposite, but if there is one, it probably doesn't have very many members...

curt86iroc wrote:

i didn't think there was a camp that thought the opposite, but if there is one, it probably doesn't have very many members...any more

FTFY!

Old lady H wrote:

The problem is, single pitch crag peeps assume in direct (from the anchor) will immediately be followed by off belay. It's only very very recently that many of us started to routinely clean to lower. There's still a heavy assumption that people will rappel to "save the hardware" even as ASCA is placing mussy hooks.

Only this weekend, I watched an experienced climber who was coaching a newer guy, ask the climber if he was in direct, as he got to the anchor. The climber said yes, and the "mentor" immediately took him off belay. There was never a command for off belay.

I have seen similar situations. Now that I think about it, when I hear people use the "in direct" it is often followed immediately by an "off belay" or the belayer just assumes that's what it means. It may have a useful purpose but I usually hear it used in a superfluous way. 

If someone said it to me my response would be "ok, and you are still on belay... do you want me to do anything?"

Astrid Rey wrote:

If someone said it to me my response would be "ok, and you are still on belay... do you want me to do anything?"

i think this is the exact point why many in this thread are against the use of the phrase " in direct." you shouldn't be having a conversation with your climber. commands should be succinct and specific. starting a conversation means you are UNCLEAR about what the intended action your climber is asking for and this leads down a slippery slope...quickly

Jebus, we resurrect necro-thread just to beat it to death again?

How about this: if you think "in-direct" is confusing, don't use it? But allow the rest of us who wouldn't partner w/ someone like you use it? After all, not everyone is competent w/ an ATC or Grigri or whatever, but no one is suggesting all belay devices are dangerous?

I go in direct all the time especially  when  developing  new climbs ground up. I just don't announce it other than  Slack if i want some. If my belayer needs to take care of buisness we discuss that. Are you in a good place?  I have to pee.   No problem I will  clip this nice fatty bolt i just finished placeing and you can take a break and do what you have to do.   I find that to be safer than hollering In direct every time I clip a bolt  with my daisy.   Just keep me on and if you need something let me know and I will accommodate you.   additionally if I have been takeing forever  and I get to a  good spot I will check in and see how she is doing.