"In direct" is not a climbing command, it's a status update!

I was the one who brought this thread back to life. We were doing a four pitch five seven and I yelled down exactly four times that I was off. Pulled the line up and said your on.  Toped out in an hour forty five. Efficent for us. We didnt really have to say any words. It was more curtisy actually. Cruiser route for sure. Two raps to the ground. Great day. Just curious about the history of the term in direct. I hear what all of you are saying. Thanks for the input and meant zero dis to anyone for using the term. I have always had a ton of respect for Mickey. He is kind of the man and I saw this quote from him. Thanks again. Fun discussion. 

I’m not saying there is anything wrong with going in direct, everyone who climbs does it and I use it just like you describe.  All I’m saying is there is no need to announce it.   I’ve been going in direct for decades and never announced it to any of my partners then in the past few months I’ve seen people at the crag announce it and have it contribute to a few near misses.  It’s a useful technique but a useless command.

Jesus fucking Christ…”in-direct” is sport climbing specific when dogging a route…that’s it…period!  It does NOT apply to your four-pitch 5.7, and it NEVER means “off-belay.”

This has been stated many times in this thread, yet it is beyond comprehension for some. 

A little salty, but yes; exactly what Frank said. Case closed. 

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

I just don't see the need to say anything at all if you aren't going to be taking the climber off belay in the first place.  The only commands from the climber should be either "off belay" if he is going to rap instead of lower or if its a multi pitch and he is switching from climber to belayer, or "take" when he is ready to lower.  I just see no need to add another command that means nothing to the belayer if he isn't going to take you off belay anyway.  

Yeah. No one is talking off belay here.

Dick Bob wrote:

I was the one who brought this thread back to life. We were doing a four pitch five seven and I yelled down exactly four times that I was off. Pulled the line up and said your on.  Toped out in an hour forty five. Efficent for us. We didnt really have to say any words. It was more curtisy actually. Cruiser route for sure. Two raps to the ground. Great day. Just curious about the history of the term in direct. I hear what all of you are saying. Thanks for the input and meant zero dis to anyone for using the term. I have always had a ton of respect for Mickey. He is kind of the man and I saw this quote from him. Thanks again. Fun discussion. 

I’m not saying there is anything wrong with going in direct, everyone who climbs does it and I use it just like you describe.  All I’m saying is there is no need to announce it.   I’ve been going in direct for decades and never announced it to any of my partners then in the past few months I’ve seen people at the crag announce it and have it contribute to a few near misses.  It’s a useful technique but a useless command.

Dick, The reason to announce it is so you belayer can chill a bit...not take you off belay, but is able to put focus down and do some little things for comfort whatever. If you don't announce it they'll be on full belay mode without need. You're just chilling in direct to your pro, why shouldn't your belayer get that chance at the same exact time.

I think the people who don't get this just haven't belayed anyone projecting for an extended amount of time.  

Or there's intention-obtuseness going on?  Is that a word?  Best non-violent comms term I can come up with to avoid the triggering t word. Or some people are unaware of how inattentive a belayer they are and so the idea of wanting to momentarily, slightly lower your attention to your climber doesn't register? 

Or it's just the internet and humans would much rather argue, than accept other points of view on the internet?  Yeah prolly this one.

Good thing this horse has 9 lives.  Or 90.  Carry on.

Frank Stein wrote:

Jesus fucking Christ…”in-direct” is sport climbing specific when dogging a route…that’s it…period!  It does NOT apply to your four-pitch 5.7, and it NEVER means “off-belay.”

This has been stated many times in this thread, yet it is beyond comprehension for some. 

Thats the issue, its being widely used at the anchor and multi pitch routes for some reason.  Like you say, perfectly fine and good for dogging a route but its migrated to common use in cragging and I am now seeing it used as a replacement for "off belay"

I have personally witnessed two people deck from the anchors because one person expected to be lowered and the other expected  the climber to rap. In both cases there were communication problems…calling off belay at an anchor and then expecting to be lowered. Although I did not completely hear what transpired with one of those parties, there was some suggestion that the climber said “ in direct” before their belayer took them off. A totally Gumby thing to do, for sure on both ends. But it was enough to convince me that there is no reason to use “in direct” at an anchor or go off belay if I’m lowering. Dogging mid-route on sport climbs in s s totally different context.

BTW both were miraculously ok. One was so Gumby that they missed the anchor, walked around a couple trees and then came back to an anchor to lower. The friction slowed them down enough that they walked away. The other belayer never took them completely off belay, but just stopped holding the rope and paying attention. When the climber fell, the belayer managed to grab enough rope (with significant rope burns) to slow the climber down. They may have broke an ankle/leg, but were otherwise ok too.

I realize these were both more inexperience problems than they were inherent problems with going “in direct”…:but stack the deck in your favor. To this day I cringe every time I hear someone say “off belay” or “in direct” at an anchor and then proceed to lower.

What Frank said.

”in-direct” is sport climbing specific when dogging a route…that’s it…period!  It does NOT apply to your four-pitch 5.7, and it NEVER means “off-belay.”

I don't have a hourse in this race really. I've never said in direct in my life. I just hear it being said all the time now. I don't project anymore. Just move over stone old man style with my girls. It's all good brothers. Just be safe out there.