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best hangboard training programs?

Original Post
Nathaniel Dray · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 20

I'm living on the beach this summer, which is great, but there is little to no access to climbing outside or in a gym. I installed a Metolius Simulator hangboard under my deck.  Anybody have experience using the Boulder Trainer or Climb Coach app for hangboard + iPhone? Or have recommendations for a site with some good long-term (2.5 months) hangboard programs?

Rohan R Rao · · Jacksonville, Florida · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 195

This is what Eric Horst says - (And a lot of people trust that guy!)

This is what I feel after reading Horst, Anderson brothers and Eva Lopez.

  1. Two hangboard sessions per week
  2. Repeaters protocol by Anderson brothers is geared more towards building your power endurance (high volume at moderate intensities)
  3. Max weight protocol by Eva Lopez is geared more towards building maximal strength (low volume at near-peak intensities)

If your goal is purely bouldering, Eva Lopez's program would be a good bet. If your goal is primarily routes, Anderson's repeaters protocol will be better.

However, more often than not almost all of us need to train both for most of our goal climbs (the next level climbs) and hence once session each of repeaters and max weight per week separated by at least 2 days will be a good program to adopt.


Xan Calonne · · Joshua Tree, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 35

+1 for Rohan's recommendations. I typically start with max weight/minimum edge type protocols (Eva Lopez, Steve Maisch 10 sec. Hangs-see link) and then move into repeaters as the training season progresses, with the 7/53 protocol described by Horst serving as a "bridge" between pure strength focused work and more endurance-based work. 2.5 months is a long time in terms of fingerboard training, and in my experience varying the protocol is essential in order to avoid a plateau; due to the varying demands of each protocol, you can program your training in a way that will allow you to see gains in each protocol for the whole time period (and avoid boredom). Also, you can practice ARC training on a hangboard, particularly one with the hold variety of the simulator. It is not super exciting, but it will work. 

Happy hanging,


Edit to add: this article from Steve Bechtel is interesting, and provides good rationale for varying protocols.

ScoJo · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 120

I don't have any experience with the apps, but I've done both repeaters and max hangs. They both work. I can't really say if one is more effective than the other, but like others have said, you can switch between the two if you become bored/burnt out. 

I would start by hanging once every other day and adjust the frequency as needed (repeaters require more rest in my experience). 

Let's climb when you get back!


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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