Homemade Prototype Nuts

for video of the cord/cable pulling through the aluminum:
youtube.com/watch?v=Dzp2vlk…
at about 1:40

Metolius nuts avoid the cable crimp and move the failure mode to the cable:
metoliusclimbing.com/curve_…

Just ordered some 3/16" galvanized cable and will go pick up some 2024 or 7075 AL to get started on this. Should be fun.

Politically Correct Ball wrote

Aid gear doesn't count. Those people will hang on drywall screws.

...or hooks, or Gorilla tape, or [in winter] Tootsie Rolls used as copper heads

Three cheers to all of you messer-abouters with gear. I designed my first harness when I was eighteen, and, while limited, it was the strongest harness I've ever owned. Hmmmm, do I see a bar tacker in my future?

t.farrell wrote: Even with a spliced looped, its still super slippery, so you have to have a really perfect splice to ensure it holds.

And that's why you lock stitch. Also your talking trash, "you have to have a really perfect splice to ensure it holds" then you talk about the easy splice rope, and please enlighten me as to why they don't work well, even if you cut it up for rappel a triple fishermans is good enough to hold rappel weight so no issues with using it on retreat apart from every meter you leave behind it's a sizable chunk of change.

If i want to test my equipment at home. lets say 23kn. I just have to find a way to hang on it 23000 Kg??

Sanllan wrote:If i want to test my equipment at home. lets say 23kn. I just have to find a way to hang on it 23000 Kg??

your best bet is having two trucks try and pull i apart.

that guy named seb wrote: your best bet is having two trucks try and pull i apart.

Lol. maybe the bompers of the trucks wont hold.

The question is: is holding that amount of weight enough? because there is no acceleration.

I have access to a CNC and a pile of delrin plastic. Would people be interested in me making some plastic nuts to see how they perform? I'm thinking that since I don't have the equipment to use steel cable I'll just throw in some 6 mil cordelette. If enough of you seem interested I'll get on that as soon as I have a chance.

Sanllan wrote:If i want to test my equipment at home. lets say 23kn. I just have to find a way to hang on it 23000 Kg??

Yes, but drop a zero from your number. 23 kN will be about 2350 kg.

Jacob Staelin wrote:I have access to a CNC and a pile of delrin plastic. Would people be interested in me making some plastic nuts to see how they perform? I'm thinking that since I don't have the equipment to use steel cable I'll just throw in some 6 mil cordelette. If enough of you seem interested I'll get on that as soon as I have a chance.

It's already been done.
mountainproject.com/v/gear4…

This one took a number of falls - retired a lot time ago - had drilled holes for nylon and later kevlar/spectra. Looking at it now I see a serious stress riser between the holes, plus the convex faces, which never seemed to have a bad effect, but the aluminum was soft.

Sanllan wrote: Lol. maybe the bompers of the trucks wont hold. The question is: is holding that amount of weight enough? because there is no acceleration.

There´s plenty of acceleration, 9.81m/s² to be exact! The standard pull tests are all slow-pull for all climbing equipment. The easiest way to test fairly exactly is using a long lever and known weights, I calibrate one of my testers with a 6mm long steel girder and a lot of water. Or get a friendly crane driver to bust it, he´ll have a load read-out. Or go to a lifting gear manufacturer who swages steel strops, he can do it.

Old thread....but, what conclusion came from the testing? Got any videos?

Jim Titt wrote: Lol. maybe the bompers of the trucks wont hold. The question is: is holding that amount of weight enough? because there is no acceleration. There´s plenty of acceleration, 9.81m/s² to be exact! The standard pull tests are all slow-pull for all climbing equipment. The easiest way to test fairly exactly is using a long lever and known weights, I calibrate one of my testers with a 6mm long steel girder and a lot of water. Or get a friendly crane driver to bust it, he´ll have a load read-out. Or go to a lifting gear manufacturer who swages steel strops, he can do it.

Dude-We're climbers, we're going to be up high!  It's more like 9.8 m/s^2 ;)

I am doing a similar project, but have had a terrible time with the actual crimping. My aluminum crimp sleeves just won’t deform sometimes. After some tensile tests, I couple of my wires failed (slipped) between 1 and 2 kn. Does anyone have suggestions to solve this problem?

Cole Rutkowski wrote:

I am doing a similar project, but have had a terrible time with the actual crimping. My aluminum crimp sleeves just won’t deform sometimes. After some tensile tests, I couple of my wires failed (slipped) between 1 and 2 kn. Does anyone have suggestions to solve this problem?

The wire rope section of McMaster gives the standards for swaging and which tool to use. Spoiler - the tools are hella expensive.

ME here

Anyone else roll their eyes hard when someone proclaims that they got a piece of paper from a university to the internet because that somehow elevates their interneting above other peoples interneting?

Anyways, carry on. Sounds cool! Came here for photos. Will check back in a few months. 

Chris Outings wrote:

ME here

Anyone else roll their eyes hard when someone proclaims that they got a piece of paper from a university to the internet because that somehow elevates their interneting above other peoples interneting?

Anyways, carry on. Sounds cool! Came here for photos. Will check back in a few months. 

Anyone roll their eyes when someone without an education tries to maximize the value of being uneducated.  I have two degrees and the one additional degree I wish I had is mechanical engineering along with trade school metal working.

There is so much to learn and know that having a structured education is really useful.