Petzl Freino with tube style belay device...


Original Post
Embarrassed to say · Jul 30, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0
I'll keep it short...

Outweigh the wife, she would rather belay with a tube. Is there any reason she can't use a Freino biner with a tube for adding a little friction via redirect on the spur? I know all about adding a carabiner to the leg loop etc.. but I doubt she'll do that. Just want a little more control when lowering, she's fairly new to belaying and climbing, and it seems as if this would work well. Was ready to buy one and noticed on the REI website..
'NOT TO BE USED WITH AN ATC'

I know they're overpriced...but I got coupons!

Do the Mountain Project masses have any helpful insight??

Thanks!

rocknice2 · Jul 30, 2016 · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 2,958
The best way to add friction with an ATC is to double up the biners. Note that they both need to be clipped through the belay loop.

On a side note, if your wife can't control you lowering how do you expect her to arrest a fall.

The Freino won't work. In order to load the rope into the spur you'd need to come out the ATC from the side. Or come in from the front but that would require a weird braking position.

Buy her a pair of gloves as wellthat, will help.

Brady3 · Jul 30, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15
There are now a few tube style belay devices that have assisted locking. I use the Mega Jul and it only took one day of climbing to get use to the differences from a regular tube style, there's an updated version that only takes one rope that is suppose to be better. And there are other options as well, but the Mega Jul is the only one I have experience with. There are multiple threads about these devices.

Embarrassed to say · Jul 30, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0
Rock n Ice on their initial review of the Freino stated that when paired with an ATC they also benefitted from the added friction...interesting.

DaveBaker · Jul 30, 2016 · Durham, NC · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 8
Am I asking the obvious to make sure you're already a high friction option (XP, Guide, etc)?

I'll hazard a guess that it won't take long for her to get accustomed to your weight -- don't overthink this, but belay gloves might be a good addition.

scrambled bacon · Jul 30, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 0
Brady3 wrote:There are now a few tube style belay devices that have assisted locking. I use the Mega Jul and it only took one day of climbing to get use to the differences from a regular tube style, there's an updated version that only takes one rope that is suppose to be better. And there are other options as well, but the Mega Jul is the only one I have experience with. There are multiple threads about these devices.
+1

My sister gifted me the mega-jul for my birthday(kinda made her,since we were there, at REI...on my birthday). For minimal brake hand tension, it's the beesknees. If friction is all your wife is concerned about, I highly recommend it. And as Brady3 said, it really only takes a day using it to get the feel for it. Lowering can be jumpy(working the thump loop and holding the brake side) for smooth lowering. But it locks up pretty solid so long as the brake strand is running in line with the lead strand. I have not tried rapping with it, I use a kong tube style for that. But the mega-jul works for me just fine between 10.2 and 9.8.

waldo · Jul 30, 2016 · Knoxville, TN · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0
Have you considered using the Click Up. She may like that.

Ben Gleason · Jul 31, 2016 · Durango, CO · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40
Second the gloves idea. Easier to catch falls, way easier to lower, and adds a huge margin of safety. Really should be S.O.P. with new belayers. $20 at home depot goes a long way.

Nick Drake · Aug 1, 2016 · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 413
Brady3 wrote:there's an updated version that only takes one rope that is suppose to be better. And there are other options as well, but the Mega Jul is the only one I have experience with.
The single rope "jul 2" is designed for fat ropes. It may not provide the braking assistance you want for a heavy climber unless you are climbing on gym ropes.

See the rope diameter to weight chart in figure 2:
http://www.edelrid.de/out/documents/downloads/GAL_JUL2.pdf

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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