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Off Width Recommendations NV


Original Post
Mostafa Noori · · Fresno, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 598

What came first the large cams or the off width attempt? In my case the cam did.

I'm interested in trying some easy (if they exist) offwidth climbing. Maybe small sections of offwidth in a easier route. I've never done any...recommendations?

John Hegyes · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 5,012

Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped...

Sherri Lewis · · Sequim, WA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 240

I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro.

Many of the climbs FA'd by Joe Herbst seem to have some offwidth, so pay special attention to ones listed under his name in the guidebook. P2 of Ragged Edges is a good place to start.

Mostafa Noori · · Fresno, CA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 598

Ragged Edges looks like a good one to check out thanks. Chrysler not only looks hard but takes more larger cams than my friends and I would have combined!

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

off widths came first with stove legs/2x4's for pro etc....

Darren in Vegas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 2,180

When a friend of mine and I wanted to get better at OW we went to the Kraft boulder field and set up a top rope on the Plumber's Crack (the side facing the parking lot), there is a bolt or two on the top of the boulder. We only allowed ourselves OW type of movement, no layback. It ends up being about 5.10 OW. After figuring out the movement, we were able to boulder it with pads.
We also went to the Chrysler Crack in Sandstone Quarry set up a TR on that (I think you need some gear to do that). A bit of OW at the beginning followed by squeeze chimney.
I learned a lot about OW from these two climbs, hope this helps.

Greg Malloure · · Prescott Az · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 20

Consider making a road trip to Joshua Tree sometime.

There are lots of cracks to climb from finger to hand to off-width and for most part you dont really need a ton of big gear above a number 4.

But I am guessing with gear recomendations.

As for Red Rocks you would know more but I dont think there is much "pure" crack climbing. There is some but most of it is face climbing. Or there are features on the face so its real easy to "cheat" and not use the crack.

I thought the tunnel pitch on tunnel vision was sort of off-width more of chimney/body wedge. The Second pitch of beleaus book had a nice chicken wing off-width move to get into the crack.

Doug Foust · · Henderson, Nevada · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section.

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,365

Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth.

Darren in Vegas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 2,180
Doug Foust wrote:Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section.
I remember a wide crack I face climbed around, but no OW technique required.

sqwirll wrote: Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth.
recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe
smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 190
John Hegyes wrote:Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped...
If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well...
Jim Reynolds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 75
Sherri Lewis wrote:I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro.
Wide boys are still using this technique
-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
smassey wrote: If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well...
Most excellent beta! Much appreciated. Headed there in April and my partner has no idea what's in store for her.
Cory Harelson · · Boise, ID · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,410

Several single pitch offwidths to choose from at the Chocolate Rocks and Illusion Crags:

Chocolate Rocks

Illusion Crags

Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,570

I've recently been climbing some wide stuff out here, its a great pursuit, you'll figure out pretty quick if you like it or not. Prepare to get thrashed.

I've written up a post about the offwidth/squeeze climbs I've done so far. Lots of photos, some of which have been mentioned and other new ones.

www.mattkuehl.blogspot.com

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,365
Darren in Vegas wrote: recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe
Couldn't resist.

The other suggested routes are good. The OW on the Fox is too easy to cheat on. Like Cory said, several routes at the southern outcrops are wide. The wide bit on Peanut Butter and Jam is good practice. I recall you can set a TR pretty easily on it.
smassey · · CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 190

+1. That's a fun climb.

rpc · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 575

"small sections of off width in an easier route" = burlesque



ps wish you more luck getting thru. the squeeze chimney above than I had.

rockratrei · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 370

Try Little Joe in Pine Creek and the Triad in Oak Creek canyons
or Crack of Infernity and Cochise in Lost Creek.

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
Spencer Weiler · · Salt Lake city · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,081

Chrysler crack gear question: What would the runout be like for me if all I have is one #6 camalot and 1 #4 big bro? Can you walk the #6 for awhile? Other small stuff available?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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