Off Width Recommendations NV
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What came first the large cams or the off width attempt? In my case the cam did. |
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Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped... |
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I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro. |
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Ragged Edges looks like a good one to check out thanks. Chrysler not only looks hard but takes more larger cams than my friends and I would have combined! |
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off widths came first with stove legs/2x4's for pro etc.... |
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When a friend of mine and I wanted to get better at OW we went to the Kraft boulder field and set up a top rope on the Plumber's Crack (the side facing the parking lot), there is a bolt or two on the top of the boulder. We only allowed ourselves OW type of movement, no layback. It ends up being about 5.10 OW. After figuring out the movement, we were able to boulder it with pads. |
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Consider making a road trip to Joshua Tree sometime. |
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Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section. |
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Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth. |
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Doug Foust wrote:Group Therapy has a pretty mellow OW section.I remember a wide crack I face climbed around, but no OW technique required. sqwirll wrote: Lady Wilson's Cleavage has some offwidth.recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. hehe |
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John Hegyes wrote:Well, they are not easy but Chrysler Crack and The Fox can be top-roped...If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well... |
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Sherri Lewis wrote:I think offwidths came first and they just used their bodies for pro.Wide boys are still using this technique |
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smassey wrote: If you can figure out how to get up CC w/o laybacking, that's a great start. Plumber's Crack is a better primer - if you can work out the chickenwing/heel-toe moves at the start, and you feel comfy in the chimney, you'll be ready to TR CC. In order to TR that, i used 2x blue, yellow metolius, and a .75 and a static rope or lots of webbing. Re: the fox, if you have enough crack technique to get to the OW, then it's easier than CC. There are 2 hands-free kneebars, a hands-free heel-toe rest/nap, and a minor slabby thrutch that should teach you something about leg locks. Lady Wilsons does have some nice OW as well...Most excellent beta! Much appreciated. Headed there in April and my partner has no idea what's in store for her. |
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Several single pitch offwidths to choose from at the Chocolate Rocks and Illusion Crags: |
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I've recently been climbing some wide stuff out here, its a great pursuit, you'll figure out pretty quick if you like it or not. Prepare to get thrashed. |
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Darren in Vegas wrote: recommending this makes you a b@$t@rd. heheCouldn't resist. The other suggested routes are good. The OW on the Fox is too easy to cheat on. Like Cory said, several routes at the southern outcrops are wide. The wide bit on Peanut Butter and Jam is good practice. I recall you can set a TR pretty easily on it. |
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+1. That's a fun climb. |
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"small sections of off width in an easier route" = burlesque ps wish you more luck getting thru. the squeeze chimney above than I had. |
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Try Little Joe in Pine Creek and the Triad in Oak Creek canyons |
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Chrysler crack gear question: What would the runout be like for me if all I have is one #6 camalot and 1 #4 big bro? Can you walk the #6 for awhile? Other small stuff available? |