By Cory From Boise, ID Jan 9, 2009
| Hi, I'd like to take a trip to Red Rocks and climb a bunch of offwidth climbs to try and work on my technique. I seem to be able to find lists of offwidth routes for other areas, but not for Red Rocks. I'd mainly be interested in offwidth routes 5.9 and under (actually way under to start), although a list of higher grade routes would be cool too as this will give me something to aspire to. From the guidebook it looks like there is a good cluster of wide climbs in the Southern Outcrops area. What other wide climbs would you recommend? Cheers, Cory |  FLAG |
By Aaron S Jan 9, 2009
| Chrysler Crack (5.9 3rd pullout) and Plumber's (V easy ,Kraft boulders) are easy and accessible. Cadillac, in Black Velvet, looks good though I haven't done it. I've been wondering how gnarly Unfinished Symphony is. Would the 11+ pitch actually rated that if it were in, say, Yosemite? |  FLAG |
By Michael Sokoloff From Spokane, WA Jan 9, 2009
| Ixtalan has an aesthetic and very memorable OW pitch. I remember it being mostly bolt-protected and did not require any big stuff. |  FLAG |
By John Hegyes From Las Vegas, NV Jan 9, 2009
| The Misunderstanding, Black Velvet Canyon, 2 pitches, 5.9 Ragged Edges, Willow Springs, 2 pitches, 5.8 Black Track, Willow Springs, 1 pitch, 5.9 |  FLAG |
By Cory From Boise, ID Jan 10, 2009
| This looks like plenty to keep me busy, thanks! Chrysler Crack looks Awesome!!! |  FLAG |
By J. Thompson From denver, co Jan 10, 2009
| Aaron S wrote: I've been wondering how gnarly Unfinished Symphony is. Would the 11+ pitch actually rated that if it were in, say, Yosemite? It looks weird. I'm not sure if you can climb it like an OW or not. I took a good look at it while rappelling off La Cierta Edad...which has a really good OW pitch on it....the crack is bottomed and flares inward. Plus its very steep. Definetly on my tick list. Also look at Burlesque...which is the rap route off of Frigid air. There is a really cool chimney /squeeze flake thing on it. www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/icebox_canyon/1058>>> Kick in the balls is wide and 5.8....but takes some doing to get too and too get off.... www.mountainproject.com/v/nevada/red_rock/first_creek_canyon>>> josh |  FLAG |
By Dustin B From Steamboat Jan 10, 2009
| These are more chimneys than pure OW, but they are in the .9 range. community pillar lady wilson's cleavage one of my first multipitch climbs was called group therapy 5.7+ on angel food wall and there was some wide on that. |  FLAG |
By Killing In The Name Of Jan 11, 2009
| I would say a nice afternoon might be rocking Atman, Yin and Yang, and the "5.9" offwidth on the other side of the Zoroaster chimney. Classic splitters, short, nice views, the 'width is the easiest of the three, and then you've got the stroll down the hill to lead to Sunny and Steep, which has the Sport Chimney, which if you're new to wide might be just your ticket in the midst of the rest of the chalky steepness. If you're looking for pure offwidth, not too much around here relative to the amount of rock. Lots of face holds contribute to the ease of the routes around here for the most part, and the offwidths that you find in the 7-9 range will involve lots of actual holds, unlike their purer brethren, typically found elsewhere. PM me if you're in town and want to knock out some crack mileage. I'm always up for as much as I can get. |  FLAG |
By Joe Huggins From 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City Jan 11, 2009
| Michael Solokoff wrote of Ixtlan; I second that. At 11a it's pretty burly. I followed the local hotshot Alison Sheets on it; it was good that she led, 'cause I thrashed like a gumby. It was well protected with bolts by the Uriostes, hopefully those bolts have been updated. I remember this from 1984, so it must have been good. |  FLAG |
By Cory From Boise, ID Jan 12, 2009
| Thanks for all the good suggestions! This should keep me busy for awhile. |  FLAG |
By rockratrei Jan 13, 2009
| Shortcake & The Little Engine 5.6 - Chocolate Rx Zacker Cracker 5.8 - Chocolate Rx Peanut Butter & Jam 5.9 - Chocolate Rx Who Deanny 5.8 - Illusion Crag Crack of Infernity 5.8+ upper tier of Lost Creek The Triad - Oak Creek The Fox 5.10 up past Physical Graffiti |  FLAG |
By Karsten From Sacramento, CA Feb 25, 2013
| Not in the guide Heard this one got sent. A tube chock with an STP sticker was way up in this thing. I found a JS (Jay Smith?) carabiner hanging from it. Later Ben Williams scooped me and got the FA. The chock is now in desert rock sports. I think this thing is probably 5.11 and found up in Juniper canyon. | A Jay Smith STP chock??? Cool none-the-less. Submitted By: Karsten on Aug 13, 2008
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By slim Feb 25, 2013
| i also thought ixtalan (3rd pitch) was one of the better OW's there. it is bolted, but i think the bolts might be kind of old. |  FLAG |
By Dow Williams From Saint George, UT Feb 25, 2013
| slim wrote: i also thought ixtalan (3rd pitch) was one of the better OW's there. it is bolted, but i think the bolts might be kind of old. With modern C4 6's, you don't need big bros or the bolts. The hangers and bolts are not worthy of being clipped in my opinion. I climbed the route in February last year. Does not need to be, nor should it be retrobolted...just remove the bolts. Joanne, Jorge and Spiderman Dan did not have access to cams that large in '81. Definitely one of if not the best off-width at RR. Ixtlan |  FLAG |
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