Longs peak trip.

Hello everyone,

My climbing partner and I are looking for some beta on the logistics of RMNP.. Longs peak to be exact. Will be the 1st time for both of us in the area. I am a solid 5.9+ leader and my partner leads solid 5.7. We are not looking to do any ice. I am thinking that Crack of Delight on the Lower East Face would be a prime line to attack.

We are looking to do this in the summer time to hopefully have some temps in the mid 50's Are there any specific months that we should be looking at?

From broadway ledge is there any easy routes to the summit of the diamond? We would also like to bag our 1st fourteener.

Which guide book is recommended for this area? I know there is a lot of questions. Any info would be greatly appreciated!

-Matt.

Matt,
Crack of Delight is a great route, as is Stettner's Ledges next to it.
From the the top of those routes on Broadway, the best way to summit Long's is via Keiner's.
This entails a couple of easy 5th cl pitches and a bunch of 3rd and 4th in an amazing spot.
Plan to descend the Cables Route.
Mid-July through Labor Day is the season, with the most stable weather usually coming in mid-late August.
If you're coming from low elevation, consider "warming up" at Lumpy Ridge or on a shorter route in the Park.
B Gillete's High Peaks book is my favorite.

If you're a solid 9+ trad leader, consider the Casual route.

Chris Plesko wrote:If you're a solid 9+ trad leader, consider the Casual route.

NO!!! A 5.9+/5.7 team does NOT belong on the Casual route. No offense, I'm just tired of this mentality that it's "only 5.10a".

Chris Plesko wrote:If you're a solid 9+ trad leader, consider the Casual route.

He is: New to the area. First 14 er . Partner 5.7.

Recommending a 10a at 13,000 feet is a bad idea.

Shit. Dusty got to the point faster than me.

Dusty wrote: NO!!! A 5.9+/5.7 team does NOT belong on the Casual route. No offense, I'm just tired of this mentality that it's "only 5.10a".

I said consider it, chill. Maybe he doesn't know it exists? Maybe he'll end up with a different partner or climb a lot and cruise 5.10 by August. It's not like he's going tomorrow.

At the very least he can scout landmarks when they're here for a return visit since once you're on Broadway you can't help but to want to climb the Diamond. He'll enjoy himself on Crack of Delight and Keiners and be stoked to come back. And if he really really wants to do it, he has plenty of time to be well prepared for a climb of the Casual. Thats the best part about climbing, you get to choose when you are ready.

EDIT: Besides everyone's definition of "solid" is different. Hell I don't know if I'd call myself a "solid" 10a trad leader on all styles at this point.

Stettner's to Kiener's is an excellent way to get up Long's. Other easier options (that, unfortunately, don't involve Broadway or the Chasm Lake area) are the Beaver and Keyhole Ridge, both at the low end of the 5th class range. The Cables route is nice, but more crowded.

The Casual Route might be the "easiest" route on the diamond, but it's still a serious undertaking. I'd suggest trying something else on Long's (like Stettner's to Kiener's) first and seriously assessing your performance before trying the Casual Route. If nothing else, it would be good to be at least somewhat familiar with the area before trying something like the Casual Route.

Hey Matt, That's great you are looking to get into the mountains in CO. There are a lot of features to climb in the park. Long's , Spearhead, Hallets, The Petite etc.. I think I speak for more than just myself when I say slow down a little bit. Your post would lead us to believe that you don't have a lot of or any experience in the Colorado mountains. You are "solid" at 5.9 climbing which is fine but this post is concerning to any rational climber that reads it. A large part of being solid in RMNP has nothing to do with your climbing ability. Simply knowing the habits and patterns of storms in Colorado should be at the top of your skill set and your concern. The Diamond is a grand tick indeed but you should give serious consideration to something not so committing like "The Barb" on Spearhead. That's got 2 moves of 5.10 on it and it's a spectacular route. Maybe even just hang out at Lumpy Ridge and watch the storms roll in over RMNP as you climb. Many of us that live here get caught in the weather and it is F'n scary shit even if you're not stuck on the wall.
You asked the Locals for advice and feedback, listen to them. The Park is no place to have an ego.
Enjoy your trip whatever you do.

Kors Door is a great route on the lower east face. It goes at 5.9 I believe. You can also link it with upper Kienners. It comes into season in early July. Listen to Dusty. He's the man

Everyone,

Thanks for all of the help thus far.. I will take all the information and use it wisely.. I admit to having no experience in the Colorado Mountains. So I will be cautious in watching the weather. I have done my fair share of climbing up in NH, so I do understand severe weather patterns.

I will be getting plenty of climbs on Seneca, The Red, and The New this spring. I may be a 5.10 leader.. I have never chose to lead one.. I will be giving Drop Zone 5.11b a try this spring at Seneca..

The only thing that really holds me back from trying something like the Casual Route on the Diamond is the lack of endurance climbing I have done.

Lets get a little more equipment oriented on this next question. Do most establish a base camp and then head out early for a day on Longs Peak? Car to Car? Whats considered the norm..

I am also thinking of carrying a bivy sack for the just in case storm that could roll in and force us to lay low.

Again! Thanks for all the help!

-Matt.

Chris Plesko wrote: I said consider it, chill. Maybe he doesn't know it exists? Maybe he'll end up with a different partner or climb a lot and cruise 5.10 by August. It's not like he's going tomorrow. At the very least he can scout landmarks when they're here for a return visit since once you're on Broadway you can't help but to want to climb the Diamond. He'll enjoy himself on Crack of Delight and Keiners and be stoked to come back. And if he really really wants to do it, he has plenty of time to be well prepared for a climb of the Casual. Thats the best part about climbing, you get to choose when you are ready. EDIT: Besides everyone's definition of "solid" is different. Hell I don't know if I'd call myself a "solid" 10a trad leader on all styles at this point.

I'm not saying that they shouldn't aspire to climb the Diamond. My point is this: given the scenario that was drawn out in the initial post, it would be very unwise for them to consider climbing the Casual Route. This sort of mentality of "it's only one move of 10a" gets a lot of people in trouble up there. Not just the slow party, but everyone else. It turns the North Chimney into a bowling alley with people off-route pitching it out and then it clogs up the Casual Route with parties of people who once red-pointed a 10a in Boulder Canyon.

Matt Bonillas wrote:Do most establish a base camp and then head out early for a day on Longs Peak? Car to Car? Whats considered the norm..

This is purely an issue of preference and fitness. Bivying underneath the Diamond is a pretty awesome experience, but I think I prefer keeping things light and going car to car.

It's pretty common for folks to climb the diamond car to car, and It wouldn't be unreasonable for competent party from out-of-town to climb a three pitch technical route on the lower East face, summit via Kiener's, and make it back to the car at a reasonable hour. That said, if you are coming from out of town it can be fun to camp at chasm Lake, and would certainly make your undertaking a bit more relaxed, or, dare I say, “casual.” Personally, I would be inclined, since you bothered hauling all your camping gear out there in addition to your climbing stuff, to pick a couple other routes in the area and make it a two or three day sort of thing.

as far as making an emergency bivouac is concerned, it's probably unlikely that you would have to hunker down on Broadway or mid-route on the lower East face or Kiener's. The crack of delight climbs along the lower East face rappel route and would be super easy to retreat from, provided you have two ropes, and upper kieners, though committing, is terrain that could be covered quickly, and you've always got the stopover on Broadway to assess if you've got time to summit or if backing off would be more appropriate. Bringing a plastic emergency bivy certainly isn't a terrible idea, but I wouldn't worry about hauling too much “just in case” gear up there… a waterproof shell, maybe an extra layer, and an adequate amount of water and snack-age should do you just fine.

Matt Bonillas wrote:Do most establish a base camp and then head out early for a day on Longs Peak? Car to Car? Whats considered the norm.. I am also thinking of carrying a bivy sack for the just in case storm that could roll in and force us to lay low. Again! Thanks for all the help! -Matt.

I agree with what Dusty said...depends on your fitness. As a general recommendation, though, I would say that someone who is coming from sea level would be better off not rushing things. I'd say come prepared for an overnighter with a very light bivy set up.

Matt Bonillas wrote:Everyone, Do most establish a base camp and then head out early for a day on Longs Peak? Car to Car? Whats considered the norm.. -Matt.

I haven't done the route so take this with a grain of salt, but I've been told that you sleep kind of poorly up there. First you have the altitude, then you have all the hikers going near your campsite at 2am, stumbing through the boulder field. Sure it cuts your day down, but what the point if you are getting a bad nights sleep? Better off sleeping in your bed and getting up a bit earlier. Plus the hike in will get you warmed up.

Oh and one more note...a co-worker of mine climbing the Casual last year and they trained all summer, not just fitness but working their way up the alpine rock climbs in the park before they did it. Just a thought.

UR GONNA DIE

Keep in mind that in the summer season it is Illegal to camp (use a tent) in the back country of RMNP. You can use a tent in the boulder field if you reserve a site. Bivouacking is allowed near chasm lake, but these spots require a permit as well and get taken up. (or you can take your chances and go ninja). I prefer a one day ascent, it feels like less work to me then hauling a bivi kit up there, but If your experience with long (15+hours) days in the mountains is limited, two days may be the way to go.

EIther way I recommend taking a light water filter. There is plenty of places to fill up along the way, which means you can get away with only carrying about a liter or so at a time. Its more weight effective then each person carrying 2-3 liters for the whole day.

Also, be aware that crack of delight is the main rappel route down the lower east face. It shouldn't be a problem in the morning though. I think you get to use bolted anchors on the route, which means you can go with a light rack (double check this) also, you would most likely be fine with one rope for a COD / Kieners link up, as long as you don't have to rap COD.

What kind of traffic could I expect to see on longs mid week? I am planning on doing Devils Tower on a weekend, then driving south to Longs Peak. Planned on climbing through the week to hopefully reduce the amount of groups.

-Matt

If it's a nice day there will be traffic during prime season. The Diamond is well worth taking the day off for and it shows.

Is Kiener's snow covered on the upper parts after Broadway Ledge? If so, 1 axe and crampons good enough for each climber?

-Matt.