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Deno3
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Jul 18, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 10
There's an old remote crag I went to that has a number of climbs with only two hangers at the top, no rap rings on them, no quick links etc. I'm happy to at least add rap rings to them but not sure what are the acceptable community methods to do so. Is it okay to just bring some quick links and steel rap rings to toss on? Grease the quick link threads so hopefully they won't freeze, throw on rap rings, tighten up good done deal? I think I'd like to get the painted ones that blend into the rock. That's what's mostly there already, and it seems less of an eye sore for non climbers, I don't think I've seen these advertised however... Also I though I heard it was possible to get a discount or donated anchor hardware if one is doing this sort of thing, but I forget from who / where? thanks
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Kip Kasper
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Jul 18, 2010
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Bozeman, MT
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 200
please do! I hate big beefy 2 bolt anchors without rap rings. it just really sucks when you have to leave a sling and binier to bail. there isn't a easy walkoff? if theres a walkoff then the chains are just for TR on your own gear and rap rings, while nice, are not necessary.
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Deno3
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Jul 18, 2010
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 10
Keenan Waeschle wrote:please do! I hate big beefy 2 bolt anchors without rap rings. it just really sucks when you have to leave a sling and binier to bail. there isn't a easy walkoff? if theres a walkoff then the chains are just for TR on your own gear and rap rings, while nice, are not necessary. Class 5 'walk offs' is all :) This is an old remote not often visited crag, so in general things are rather sparse on the routes.
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Ryan Kelly
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Jul 18, 2010
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work.
· Joined Oct 2006
· Points: 2,960
I don't know about the grease, if that's the local tradition then have at it. Out here most go the opposite direction and put Loctite on the quicklinks to keep people from stealing them. As far as camo, you can paint them yourself, at home, before installing. Just get some spray of similar color to the rock.
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Bryan Gall
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Jul 18, 2010
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New Castle, CO
· Joined Sep 2002
· Points: 260
Spray paint the links and rings yourself. Use a primer first; you can get fancy with a rock speckled top coat. You may want to use old 'biners instead of rings; if they're spray painted the same color as the rest of the anchor, people tend to leave them there. Inspect them seasonally for corrosion if you're using steel links on stainless hangers or go expensive and purchase stainless links.
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cjdrover
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Jul 18, 2010
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Watertown, MA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 355
Deno3 wrote:what are the acceptable community methods If there are already bolts there, I highly doubt there would be any complaints about leaving rap rings. The method you've proposed sounds perfectly good, and your other local climbers owe you a beer for the service! Deno3 wrote:Also I though I heard it was possible to get a discount or donated anchor hardware if one is doing this sort of thing, but I forget from who / where? I'll bet you are thinking of the ASCA (www.safeclimbing.org), though I'm not sure this falls under the scope of what they do. You should also try _______ Climbing Association, where the blank is wherever you are. Also... Keenan Waeschle wrote:sucks when you have to leave a sling and binier to bail. FWIW, if you are just rapping (and NOT lowering) you don't have to leave a biner behind.
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Kip Kasper
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Jul 18, 2010
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Bozeman, MT
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 200
yeah, your right. I just realized that right after I posted it. bringing a small length of webbing also makes this really easy, but I always forget to throw that in the bottom of my pack and end up having to leave an expensive sling.
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cjdrover
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Jul 18, 2010
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Watertown, MA
· Joined Feb 2009
· Points: 355
Keenan Waeschle wrote:yeah, your right. I just realized that right after I posted it. bringing a small length of webbing also makes this really easy, but I always forget to throw that in the bottom of my pack and end up having to leave an expensive sling. Yup, definitely done that before. On the plus side, it forces you to retire gear that you might otherwise have held on to for too long...
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