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Photographing Climbing and Climbing Comps

Original Post
Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

I'm just starting to get into climbing photography. Have a decent DSLR (Nikon D5000) and am hoping to build up my lens collection soon, but right now I have a 18-55mm that comes standard with the body if you buy the kit. A few questions include:

- Suggestions for lenses that you often use that are a good buy for shooting climbing in general
-With a DSLR, do you get the same problem of chalk showing up in your photos floating around in gyms that I did with my point and shoot? Stupid question I know, just because my camera is nicer, doesn't mean the chalk is gone. This is a prelude to part be which is.
-What can you to combat that problem?
-Any other recommendations for a beginning photographer? Eventually I'll need to up my ropework so I can photograph from fixed lines hanging and stuff, but I'm not there yet, though input is appreciated.

Thanks!

Tyson Anderson · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2007 · Points: 126

Can't say much for specifically photographing climbing comps but the chalk in the air is just like any other particulate in the air (snow, dust...). Get an off camera flash and keep the one on your camera from firing and your problem will be solved. On camera flash just ruins photos anyways. Here is a good site if you want to learn more about off camera flashes and lighting in general: strobist . Check out the lighting 101 section.

As for any other tips I'd ditch that lens as fast as you can afford it if you plan on shooting indoors. I'm particular to prime lenses (non-zoom) because they are cheaper and not having to zoom in and out gives me one less thing to think about when composing a shot. Prime lenses also are faster (let more light in) per dollar than zoom lenses. For example a 50mm 1.8 will cost you as little as $100 while a 24-70mm 2.8 will run you $1500. One downside I can think of having to switch lenses often is that you run a higher risk of dropping one if you are hanging. I've never done much "roped photography" though so maybe somebody else can throw in their .02 on the subject.

usernameremoved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 25

The first thing i would do is spend some time shooting. As much time as you can really. Get to know your camera, what works, what doesn't, and what you might want to look for in a lens (ie. do you want a wide angle lens (10-22mm) for closeups, or a midrange zoom lens for all around shooting at mid distance). Once you are familiar with your camera, just spend time taking pictures of climbing. Flip through every photo annual magazine you can find, look at how the shots are composed and from what angles, then mess around and try to replicate certain shots or styles, until you can build your own.

Rob Kepley · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,005

Watch this.... if this doesn't inspire you nothing will.
youtube.com/watch?v=ZNgdN48…

Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

Thanks for all your help. I won't be primarily shooting indoors, it will just probably be my first opportunity to shoot climbing (I kind of mis-phrased my initial post. I don't have the camera yet, I'm getting it in a week for my birthday) as the comp is next Saturday. A lot of things to think about.

Said Pazirandeh · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 685

You don't need expensive glass to be a good photographer...Use your feet! Visualize your shot before the moment happens.

Buy a filter (UV filter most likely) to protect your lens from particulates and banging it into to stuff.

My favorite lens is a fixed 50 mm. It forces you to become a better photographer.

Just my $.02

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,085

Shoot and shoot some more. Then keep shooting. I used to want the teles but now realize how valuable the wides are. Cropability is nice as well with a wide.

eliclimbs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 35

Hey Mark,
Good for you! The visible chalk is from the flash firing (someone already said this). Figure out what all the camera settings do, and use them.

I use a wide lens a bunch (10-22mm on a cropped sensor). Exposure time is really important with moving subjects: If the duration is slower than about 1/200 sec, you'll get a lot of blurry images.

here's an article I wrote that deals with easy ways to rig up for climbing photography. Have fun!

E

Climbing House

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,085
eliclimbs wrote:Hey Mark, Good for you! The visible chalk is from the flash firing (someone already said this). Figure out what all the camera settings do, and use them. I use a wide lens a bunch (10-22mm on a cropped sensor). E Climbing House

Canon 10-22? If so, how do you like it?

eliclimbs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 35

Yeah, I use the Canon 10-22mm. It's really good, the lens performs well, and it's really helpful to be able to be that close to the subject. Good color, contrast, etc. Just watch out for some distortion when it's at 10mm (camera orientation becomes more important here).

E

Adam Stackhouse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 14,085

I ended up purchasing the 17-40L with the idea of someday upgrading to a FX body; but I came awfully close to getting the 10-22.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

One thing to point out. I believe the D5000 does not have the autofocus drive that is required to have autofocus work with older lenses, many of which they still make, including most primes, like the 50mm f/1.8 someone mentioned. Newer generation lenses have the autofocus motor built into the lens itself. So you may want to hold off investing in the primes till you have a body that can work with them, unless you can deal with the manual focus. That said, nikon's 18-200 VR-II is the best all purpose lens i've ever had, and would work great with your camera. It's not a replacement for a good prime or a fast tele, but it's fairly compact and has a great range.

Mike Anderson · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2004 · Points: 3,365

The Canon EFS 10-22 is KICK ASS!!!

I also have the 24-70L, 70-200L, 300 f/4L and a 50 f/1.4 and the 10-22 is by far my favorite lens. It's very sharp, and I've never been disappointed with one of its shots.

Plus it's relatively small and lightweight, meaning you're more likely to bring it along on days like this:

usernameremoved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 25

+4 for the Canon 10-22, its an incredible lens.

Mark Kauzlarich · · Brooklyn · Joined May 2009 · Points: 65

Thanks again for all your help. It is officially my birthday today and I did get the Nikon D5000, and I absolutely love it. Soon I'll have to get a new lens I guess, but for right now, I'm just going to shoot and learn to zoom with my feet if I have too. Take care everyone.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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