night onsights

in an effort to get more trad reps me and my buddy have been hitting the crag after work. typically this means we will both be doing the climb by headlamp.
does the darkness add a grade? or am I merely a gumby

plz share any other night climbing tips too!

if you close your eyes you can't see the darkness and you won't even be able to tell that its night time. 

If your new to climbing by headlamp it's a little more challenging, nothing close to a grade though. Get a good headlamp, it helps and it may help to have your belay use their headlamp for your feet. 

After a bit you will get used to reading the rock by headlamp and it won't feel any harder then climbing during the day. 

Headlamp actually makes it easier since you can see right into the crack that would otherwise be mysterious and shaded. Subtract a grade

A headlamp makes the climbing a grade harder, but unfortunately artificial light is aid. So now it's an aid ascent and the free grade doesn't really matter.

Seriously though, I agree that headlamp climbing is a little different. Try using shadows to find features. And get your head further out for feet, imhe.

"Night Onsight" is an oxymoron. Points should be both added and deducted; no net change of grade.

Gotta reach out to our MP gear expert Steve Hoffman for the night vision goggles beta. 

Sounds like MP needs new options for ticks.

Night lead/fell/hung 

Sounds pretty rad, tho personally I'm a fan of the no-sight on sight (eyes closed) tho I've only done it in the gym so far

I’ve had some pretty rad night sessions in the last year. When the days grow short, the lights come out.

This is a still from a video I wish I could upload. My first night session on a 3 pitch project. I arrived at the jug starting the crux third pitch roof and two birds were roosting on it! One flies at the phone, you can see its shadow here. I then find a desperate variation avoiding the jug, just to have the birds fly off.

No night vision goggles, but I do like to use two headlamps. A big powerful one on my helmet and a small bindi on my head aimed down to help with ambient light when finding small feet.  

I do think it makes delicate face climbing harder cuz the angle of light being lined up with your eyes washes out small holds. 

LOL, all the cavers are giggling about this thread.

Onsight 

Nosight

This better not lead to the night version of a "day flash" 

its good practice for when you inevitably epic on the steck salathe and have to climb that nasty nasty at the top with yer headlamp. Ideally, to make the training more applicable, do not eat or drink enough all day. For the most points, you could apply some sandpaper to the bottom and top of your desk at work, and grind your knees and elbows on the sandpaper all day so you are leaking blood too.