Devils Lake Toprope Clusterf*** PART 3

Lauren Errichiello wrote:

Lol yes, that was my big worry. I learned the hard way that a surface could seem smooth but is in fact, not. See my static after 2 TRs. This could happen to their rope running over the edge like that with no redundancy to save them.

Whoa that's... concerning. This is really a static line? Had no idea you could see wear this severe after barely any loading. I guess if it was extended far enough to be loaded and unloaded enough to introduce a bunch of slack. 

Chris M wrote:

Whoa that's... concerning. This is really a static line? Had no idea you could see wear this severe after barely any loading. I guess if it was extended far enough to be loaded and unloaded enough to introduce a bunch of slack. 

Yep full static line on what we thought was a pretty smooth surface. Goes to show that even DL rock can cut rope. That's why I was very concerned when I saw that rope not over the edge of the rock. 

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

And come on ya'll there was a big CMC outing this past weekend. I KNOW someones got pictures of all the crazy toprope anchors from the East Rampart

Started that day on ironmongers and realized we were right next to them so ventured further West, ended up back there at the end of day. I have to say, they probably have some of the worst crag etiquette I've come across. 

Mark Pilate wrote:

Yeah, in fact it’s an ingenious way to save wear and tear, and minimize loads on your critical top rope static line, by transferring all the critical stress and abrasion to your disposable climbing rope, lol. 

Yeah I actually love the extra friction of some nice sharp rock on the climbing rope, especially when I’m belaying heavier climbers- Also saves your belay device from too much friction and wear. 

Mark Pilate wrote:

Yeah, in fact it’s an ingenious way to save wear and tear, and minimize loads on your critical top rope static line, by transferring all the critical stress and abrasion to your disposable climbing rope, lol. 

Yeah I actually love the extra friction of some nice sharp rock on the climbing rope, especially when I’m belaying heavier climbers- Also saves your belay device from too much friction and wear. 

They also used a hollow block to extend an anchor 

How was it out there Memorial Day weekend? 

West Vanderstappen wrote:

They also used a hollow block to extend an anchor 

I walked by that! That was a good one. That block has since been hidden in the woods. It only weighed maybe 90 pounds 

These folks also told me that my rappel line tied off to a big oak tree was "sketchy". 

That anchor material is also a dynamic rope. 

Hard to see it, but that green sling is wrapped around the rope maybe to mark the tripping hazard they created? 

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

These folks also told me that my rappel line tied off to a big oak tree was "sketchy". 

That anchor material is also a dynamic rope. 

Hard to see it, but that green sling is wrapped around the rope maybe to mark the tripping hazard they created? 

Is that a sketchy nut redirected by the tree??

Not defending this anchor at all, but I decided to climb elsewhere because it looked difficult to get a good set up. Does anyone have pics of a GOOD anchor for Moldy Buttress? Specifically over by lichen and fungus.

Boyscout 6/13/26

Imagine if you could just put some bolts in. Would be safer, more convenient, and much less of a shit show. 

grug g wrote:

Imagine if you could just put some bolts in. Would be safer, more convenient, and much less of a shit show. 

Safer? Maybe. But I've seen plenty of people screw up two-bolt anchors, and increasing participation (especially among less-skilled participants) might actually increase the absolute number of accidents (even if the rate decreases).

More convenient? Maybe. But only for those who can't quickly and efficiently build a decent gear anchor. For those of us who can, increased crowding seems inconvenient.

Much less of a shit show? Absolutely not. Over my 30-ish years of climbing, the more I've seen the bar lowered for required knowledge and skills to participate in the sport, the more of a shit show the sport has become.

grug g wrote:

Imagine if you could just put some bolts in. Would be safer, more convenient, and much less of a shit show. 

then we wouldn’t get to witness these anchors 

it’s already a top access crag with amble natural anchors, would hardly change much except encourage people to lean over the cliff edge to try and clip bolts.
I for one am glad the lake is bolt free as it pushed me to actually learn how to set natural and gear anchors and develop those competencies instead of merely relying on bolts someone else placed. 

In the context of Devils Lake there are no real justifications against bolts other than: "this is the way we have always done it". 

I would guess most of this sentiment stems from locals that haven't experienced a crag with bolts. 

Eli Chase wrote:

for real though are you really so clueless as to not know that it is a state park with a bolting prohibition from the WI DNR? It is not merely tradition or preference that there are not bolts. It is a matter of legality. 

I'm saying the rule/legality is stupid and created by people ignorant of climbing. 

grug g wrote:

In the context of Devils Lake there are no real justifications against bolts other than: "this is the way we have always done it". 

I would guess most of this sentiment stems from locals that haven't experienced a crag with bolts. 

Have you ever climbed there? if you have, then i would believe that your sentiment might change as just because other areas have bolts, doesn't mean that this place is in need.  Also, bolts are banned by the park, thus this conversation is moot. 

grug g wrote:

In the context of Devils Lake there are no real justifications against bolts other than: "this is the way we have always done it". 

I would guess most of this sentiment stems from locals that haven't experienced a crag with bolts. 

I think it looks more like this:

grug g wrote:

In the context of Devils Lake there are no real justifications against bolts other than: "this is the way we have always done it". 

I would guess most of this sentiment stems from locals that haven't experienced a crag with bolts. 

It’s really the complete opposite.
The quartzite cliffs are what make it worthy of being a park. Certainly it is the premier park in WI w/ 2.5 mil annual visitors.

Allowing bolts would deface the natural features for every visitor. While at best providing some convenience for (sport) climbers and no one else.
It is also prudent for them to avoid a bolting war by just vetoing it.
And finally the bolts are simply not needed to climb there safely as evidenced by the 50+ years of climbing history that the lake has already has.
so really it is just selfishness and a desire for convenience at the heart of this.

Eli Chase wrote:
And finally the bolts are simply not needed to climb there safely as evidenced by the 50+ years of climbing history that the lake has already has.
so really it is just selfishness and a desire for convenience at the heart of this.

100 year history - the Stettners began climbing here in the autumn of 1927, after their road trip to Colorado.

Some people cannot manage trad anchors, and want the anchors at every crag to be replaced with bolts for their convenience.  Somehow top-roping itself isn't convenient (or safe) enough.

It's funny how we've come back around to the topic of TR CF part 1.