Ugly Hardware Only

Brandon R wrote:

I'd be curious to know what something like this would actually hold in a fall. I recently saw some that look nearly identical. 

I mean for 37 years old it ain't looking that bad tbh. I would whip if it were vertical or slab. Looks like the worst of it is at the cone.

Do you all climb in heavily trafficked sport climbing areas with a lot of sand at the base? We come across a hanger worn like this or worse at least once a year.

Brandon,
I'm not sure that can be easily tested. These bolts had SMC hangers and an easy approach so was a good project us to do to get experience installing glueins.

Somebody watching too much YouTube thought they could split this boulder in half with railroad spikes >_<

I did my best to fix it

Encountered this ancient beauty on a seldom done route in Rock Creek the other day. Clipped it, but thankfully there was OK gear nearby. stud was a good half an inch out of the rock.

Not the worst I've encountered, but still worth a pic.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/203097367/new-glue-in-bolts-at-the-crag-hoping-you-like-these-a-bit-more

Gee Monet wrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/203097367/new-glue-in-bolts-at-the-crag-hoping-you-like-these-a-bit-more

lol, that glue job :(

Steve Hoffman wrote:

Its plenty strong though, those things are in there good

what is all the Glue in the middle of the bolts supporting?

The glue in the middle came out of the hole or dripping out the gun?

Nice! 

Yeah see, non-stainless is fine. That's just a little surface rust. I'm like 70% sure that thing has at least another 20 years of service life before it catastrophically fails unexpectedly lol...! 

Kidding. What environment was that in? We have plated steel here in the Sierra that has held up 30 years and doesn't even look that bad. But then I've seen plated steel in the Northern Desert that looks worse after 10. 

The underside of that rusted bolt took me by surprise! It was the first bolt (crux) on a route located just above a stream. The other bolts looked good. Initially installed in 2012  

Salamanizer Ski wrote:

Yeah see, non-stainless is fine. That's just a little surface rust. I'm like 70% sure that thing has at least another 20 years of service life before it catastrophically fails unexpectedly lol...! 

Kidding. What environment was that in? We have plated steel here in the Sierra that has held up 30 years and doesn't even look that bad. But then I've seen plated steel in the Northern Desert that looks worse after 10. 

Volcanic tuff, high desert/semi-alpine meadow, ponderosa pines, above a perennial stream bed. This area sees a fair bit of snow in a good snow year and does have a tendency to seep.  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106258837/death-grip 

I snapped the head off a 3/8" plated steel 5-piece this weekend with a 6" wrench. 25 year-old bolt in dolomite with a stainless hanger and a bunch of silicon caulk under the hanger. Blegh.

Some of the other bolts removed the same day.

This looks to be my favorite crag Tal, is that at North Table?? What an install!! One time I ran into one of those in salt lake, but they made sure to make a mountain of glue to meet up with the bolt.