Avoiding tendon injuries.

I used to climb when I was a kid, and I am just returning to it. I bouldered a couple of times this spring and for the past two ish weeks I have been going to the climbing gym 3 ish times a week doing top rope. I have progressed faster than I expected, and yesterday I did my first 5.11d on top rope the first time without falling. I tried a 5.12a, which had some killer crimps and I was fully crimping the whole time. I was recently told that crimping fully like this as a beginner can lead to series tendon pulley injuries. How do I continue to work on hard climbs without risking this kind of injury? Something that is mentionable is that I do lots of downhill mountain biking, and do mechanical work, so I don't think that my fingers are completely untrained. 

Honestly think the main thing is to pace yourself. Don’t crimp hard every session. Stop the session when your power starts to diminish. Take a rest day when you feel tweaky. Etc.

But also, learn not to full crimp every hold. Learn to rely more on open grip and if necessary half crimp. It will also make you a better, more efficient climber. 

The muscles get stronger faster than the tendons, so the faster you get stronger the higher the chance of injury becomes. When they start hurting you will know it’s time to back off, not push through 

You don't.  There are days in the gym where instead of 5.12s I lead as many easy 5.11s in a row as I can until I am gassed out. Some days I TR the 5.12s that are TR only. Then there are the dihedrals that give on the full body work out. Other days do open handed routes. The point being is rotate around, never concentrate. Most of all stay away from routes with two finger pockets until your fingers are really in shape.

+1 for being careful not to ask too much of the tendies in a short time period. Learn your open grips and learn what feels ok.

Personally, my pullies have always been invincible. Crimping hard has always been safe for me and has always felt safe. Open pockets have always been dangerous for me.  Read these links and others like them for information that might save you from the lifelong tendon injuries that have befallen me.

https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/how-to-climb-on-pockets-without-getting-injured

https://theclimbingdoctor.com/pocket-change-adapting-the-way-you-pull-on-pockets/?srsltid=AfmBOoryCcn1isrp_VIHLf_mbS9Goi1_nAi1A69vn5-kcLLN8mxWoPOh

Owen, you’re in a precarious position. Most climbers take at least a year to progress to really small holds. In that way starting with strong (but untrained) fingers is a detriment. I too was able to pull on really small holds when I started, but I sustained my first finger injury (pulling on a pocket) within a few weeks of beginning climbing. I had more or less a continuous run of finger and elbow injuries for the first 5 years climbing.  

My recommendation is to stop pushing your TR grades and just focus on leading easier routes. As Allen mentioned, change the stimulus frequently. Most acute injuries let you know they are about to happen, the problem is most people just don’t listen to the signs their body are sending them.

It’s probably best to focus on hard bouldering vs hard climbing, as you have fewer things keeping you from just letting go when your body lets you know it doesn’t like what you’re doing.

Stay hydrated and don’t shock load. Sometimes when a foot slips, it is better to let go than bear down. Be smooth and push but be observant and honest with yourself. 

Climbing is fun!

Unfortunately speaking from first hand experience and it took me 8+ months to get finger mobility back (no surgery, fully healed now).

Something ppl don’t warn enough about that got me 

If/when you get into projecting - don’t focus on one route/one move too many times in a session and get flustered. I popped a pulley on big two/three finger pockets because I was fixated on a route before it came down and tried the same move probably 8 times a session, a few times a week.

Essentially - vary your climbing holds. Indoors it’s so easy to get into trouble because you can session the same holds without your skin getting so terrible. Vary crimps, jugs, sloppers, pockets…don’t only vary grades.

Also probably stay away from board climbing. But if you do get into it - warm up before, limit your time, and don’t go more than once a week. 

Repeat: The muscles get stronger far faster than the tendons. If you are progressing in strength very quickly then you are at high risk of injury to your tendons.

All the advice to vary your climbing hold types, styles and intensity are the key to avoiding injury while still having fun ie work on endurance jugs one day a week. DON'T pull hard.

Work on exercising opposing muscle groups ie extensors, not flexors, especially in your forearms as they improve stability of the joint.

Most don't listen and then don't rest once injured. :(

It's sometimes hard to do this, but as you ramp up, try to hold yourself to stopping when your hands start to hurt. Don't just power through as you're climber harder - listen to your hands!