Ugly Hardware Only

I would've assumed glue ins would be the only way to go?

Kevin Heinrichwrote:

I would've assumed glue ins would be the only way to go?

For softer sandstone, absolutely.

Those double wedges suck, even for their intended purpose.

Mr Rogerswrote:

For softer sandstone, absolutely.

Those double wedges suck, even for their intended purpose.

I agree. Wedge bolts of any sort are for hard stone only. 

Mikey Schaeferwrote:

The replaceable insert idea was part of the inspiration for the Edelrid bulletproof biners.  I came up with the idea maybe 10 or so years ago (or maybe longer) and worked on a few ideas that incorporated wear markers. I was close friends with Carsten von Birckhahn, who was running Edelrid at the time.  We chatted about it while down in Patagonia one year.  Not that many years later Carsten was so excited to show me a prototype that eventually became the current version with the fixed steel insert.

yeah, while some may think of a replaceable insert as not worthwhile i disagree.  chapeau (mikey) for coming up with something innovative!  

in my experience i rarely work on an anchor where i can actually loosen a quicklink that's been frozen for a few decades.  at that point i'm taking off the hanger, the quicklink, and worn mussy (and that's a 'best' case scenario).  suddenly cost went up, most likely time went up also, and waste definitely increased.  sure, i can take a grinder out there, but that's just as much of a pita.

so, if were looking at ease of replacement, overall cost, sustainability, etc.  the replaceable insert is a great idea!  i'm thinking of something that would have a nice sized retaining pin, maybe a slightly recessed, 1/4" cap screw.

There's no way that swapping out an insert is going to be more resistant to corrosion issues that make servicing hard than a simple quicklink

Mr Rogerswrote:

For softer sandstone, absolutely.

Those double wedges suck, even for their intended purpose.

Good to know. 

Are glue-ins effective for sandstone long term?

John Tuttlewrote:

Good to know. 

Are glue-ins effective for sandstone long term?

The best we got in all respects at this point.

Haha what!! I guess a lot of things would have to go wrong for that to fail.

That is awful, first time I would be scared to put body weight on five pieces.

ian watsonwrote:

That is awful, first time I would be scared to put body weight on five pieces.

those twist bolts are looking pretty solid, even all bent.  the eye bolt (fixe?) is probably solid also, and once you've hauled off a couple 1/4" short buttonheads even that rusty sleeve on the right looks bomber ;-)

old5tenwrote:

those twist bolts are looking pretty solid, even all bent.  the eye bolt (fixe?) is probably solid also, and once you've hauled off a couple 1/4" short buttonheads even that rusty sleeve on the right looks bomber ;-)

In any case why are there five pieces right there ha.

Edit op said testing

One of my favorite anchors that I cleaned up last year. So much happening here!

Bela VanderVoortwrote:

One of my favorite anchors that I cleaned up last year. So much happening here!

That's a lot of chain but I see what's going on here.  

2 bolts is not redundant when they're glued in the same hunk of rock that's about to fall off!

Holy shit imagine falling on TR, that bad boy coming loose, and it then being held in place by the chain. Fffffffff that

Wow...I hope the whole anchor got moved to a solid piece of rock.

Photos from last Sunday. All of this was cleaned off and patched. 

Bela, That is one unattractive anchor!

That’s some unattractive rock too! Lot of cracks around there…😬