New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43

Continuing the good times....

Well, I’m glad we escaped the showing pictures of tummies route the last iteration was heading in. 

Good morning 🙏 

The last thread had some discussion of knees so this article in the NY Times about some promising developments seems topical.

Federal Agency Unveils Three Potential Osteoarthritis Treatments

So somewhere in the #42 there was a discussion about the relative merits of a 2-story house, with stairs of course, vs a ranch style house with a single floor and no stairs. I was interested to read from some of you that you preferred stairs and count them as an exercise device if you will and even credit stairs for better leg health in the senior years. One person even said buying a house without stairs wasn't an option. I was intrigued.

You see, I've had lower back problems and surgeries. I've broken both ankles though not at the same time. Have also had knee injuries. So the thought of navigating stairs when I am injured was unthinkable - no way I'd ever buy a house with stairs! But that discussion I mentioned certainly had me thinking about it. I talked about this thread with my partner, (who does not participate in forums) and was telling her maybe I made a mistake with the flat houses.

So my partner and I rented an AirBnB in Vegas, to do some climbing. A friend was joining us as well. The very first night and morning we stayed in the house, I went for a head first tumble down the last 4 steps of the stairs on to a hardwood floor!

Yes I got hurt, some might say fairly badly, though I broke no bones. It hurt though and I was hurt. I toughed through it with a traumatized foot that only now about 6 weeks later is healing up. Well, it's still healing frankly and I've a ways to go. Foot injuries can be like that. I've not been immobilized. On the contrary, I've been getting out and having good times, but with the price of a sore foot and pain at the end of the day,

Long story short? I'm sticking with single story houses!   

Report back from the boulder: Ward oils himself up for the shoot and slips off the last hold.

Not so fast Carl. 

As for the discussion on stairs. There was a mention of documented decline in elders that avoided them. Is not that cohort by definition in decline?

I am, for sure!   

Another one for Carl.

Climbing Mountains is fun!

I’m curious about how this ‘cohort’ feels about Local Climbing Organizations. Do you think they are a positive contribution to a climbing area? What makes one more productive? If you aren’t a fan, why? How do you feel about the Access Fund, both as a concept, and what their overall effectiveness has been over the years?

I can only speak to the LCO that we have here in Lander, the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance.  It supports maintainance and development in our area.  It has been responsible for an ongoing rebolting effort to keep our crags safe.  It also organizes trail maintanence and puts on the climber's festival every year.   We have decent working relationships with the National Forest, BLM, and the state park where Sinks is located.   We are pretty fortunate to have such a forward thinking and largely cohesive body of folks who care about our resources.  I think it is a great exampleof what an LCO should be.

The Access Fund does good work as well, but I think they may be more focused on national issues. It's important to have a local advocacy group that can really get on top of things that pertain to a specific area and can ask the AF for help if need be.  I'd be curious to here other opinions.

I’m curious about how this ‘cohort’ feels about Local Climbing Organizations. Do you think they are a positive contribution to a climbing area? What makes one more productive? If you aren’t a fan, why? How do you feel about the Access Fund, both as a concept, and what their overall effectiveness has been over the years?

I am not much of a groupie. I'm not climbing "for the team" and I don't really subscribe to all that global or national internet (pretend) community bullshit either. 

LCOs - I don't want to join one. Might donate to a worthy cause from time to time, cause-dependent. I don't do Facelift, for example (every day is face lift day, imo). I'm not interested in any deeper participation, either.

Access Fund - on-again, off-again member over the years; mostly off. I have a distinct lack of solidarity with respect to "national" climbing issues and I am not interested in donating to causes outside my areas of interest. I do not want to participate in any political action committee whatsoever, and the more the AF acts like one the less I would be willing to contribute. 

I'm a supporter of the Access Fund.  When things are happening at the national level that impact climbers, climbing areas, and how climbers use the land, it's good to have a unified voice. The Access Fund now offers joint membership when you renew, with a choice of many local climbing organizations, and a % of your renewal goes to the local org to support their work.  When I renewed this year, I chose the Bishop Climbers Coalition, but I also donate separate to the Bishop Climbers Coalition, The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition, the St George Climbers group (trying to open access to a place I like that is currently closed), CRAG Idaho, the City of Rocks Institute, ASCA, the American Alpine Club.  I also give periodic gifts to individuals involved in new routing and crag maintenance at areas where I climb. 

I've never developed a route anywhere and this is my way of giving back to the people who spend beaucoup bucks from their own budgets and their time and effort so I can climb.

Tim thanks for picking up the flag and charging forward… 

Good morning all.

So Nick how is the weather? Snow?Rain?Sunshine? I never knew that Vermont had Texas like weather that changes every day. So I guess you get up, look out the window and decide Wets or Slicks?

Living in costal California all I can say is our weather is boring AF. If you get up before dawn it’s cool and clear, about 5am it’s the coolest, then fog forms up and everything gets wet and drippy. This lasts till 9,10,11 depending on the sun angle and the mood of the earth. When the sun shows up the temperature soars to the hi 60’sF, 70’sF maybe 80’s but then the sea breeze starts up and it cools down. Another factor in California weather is the topography and it’s key.
I live in a valley that opens up to the ocean- it’s 15 miles away across a flat plain so the ocean controls everything. If you get a little hill the ocean effect is blunted and the sun has more influence on temperatures. For example- Stoney Point- the bastion of “TRAD” climbing and cutting edge bouldering- gets the sea breeze coming over Santa Susana pass around 3-4 pm and the temperatures drop quickly. It’s pretty common for me to call my buddies, who live deep in “The Valley”and ask “you coming out?”only to be told “it’s 106 right now, going to the gym….”
I write all this out because I want to know about “the weather” in your neck of the woods.

I know about Boise- it’s Bishop on steroids.
I know about Joshua Tree- Hell on earth, except when it’s knot.
I sort of know about the Sierra west side and east side.
So what’s yours like and what special equipment do you need? Air conditioning, snow shovel, Skidoos?

Last thought.  I greatly admire Ward and his quest. I feel like having a “summit” that calls to you is the essence of our sport. It seems like we all have that in common.

Later all 

apogeewrote:

I’m curious about how this ‘cohort’ feels about Local Climbing Organizations. Do you think they are a positive contribution to a climbing area? What makes one more productive? If you aren’t a fan, why? How do you feel about the Access Fund, both as a concept, and what their overall effectiveness has been over the years?

I'm a big fan. Both the Southeastern Climbers Coalition and the Carolina Climbers Coalition have done an outstanding job securing access to climbing areas in my corner of the US. Both the SCC and the CCC own multiple areas outright and have negotiated access to many others. The money for this comes from membership fees, fundraising events and donations from both individuals, companies and the Access Fund.

Edit: List of areas owned by the CCC. Some of these would have been lost to developers while others were closed to climbing before the CCC bought them.

Laurel Knob: Tallest cliff in the Eastern US around 1200 feet high.

Buckeye Knob: bouldering area.

Hidden Valley: Sandstone sport climbing with several hundred routes.

Maibauer Boulders (Love Valley): Another bouldering area.

Rumbling Bald (West Boulders):  RB is a world class bouldering area. The CCC owns part of the field ensuring access in perpetuity.

Lower Ghost Town: Recently opened and acquired. Some of the best crack climbing in the East.

Guy, you have expressed some strong views of the Access Fund- what is the origin of this? Do you have a similar skepticism about local climbing orgs?

Edit: Perspectives related to non-support of the idea of LCO's, and the reasons for this, are very much of interest.

IMHO, there's so much nuance to this. No single group can represent everyone. What are you (collective) doing to keep access open? If nothing or relatively nothing (very subjective) then having a negative opinion is stupid. 

I don't agree with a lot of what PETA does but I still donate since we need a voice of opposition to the meat lobbies.

Same with AF and the local Tahoe group. It's also easier to give $100 a year then give time for me. For me and my sense of right and wrong it works.

Edit: 

Best $450 off FB marketplace I've spent:

Emil Briggswrote:

The last thread had some discussion of knees so this article in the NY Times about some promising developments seems topical.

Federal Agency Unveils Three Potential Osteoarthritis Treatments

Thanks for posting! Here’s a paywall free link:

https://archive.ph/XeKXq

There is no weather more perfect than a hot August night.  Perfect breeze.  Even better if there is water nearby to swim, soak, enjoy.  

It kind of blows my mind to see #43.  It takes me back not so long ago when I was a very bewildered 'woman of a certain age', wandering around in the parking lot of Intersection Rock alone, trying to figure it out.  I was watching all the youngsters stepping out of their cars, backpacks and gear on, talking about where they were climbing today.  I felt sad,  too old, too unfit, too 'lame' to ever hang out with those folks. I was only driving through, and on my way out I drove down to Nomad just to sit in their parking lot and watch climbers go in and out. I walked in the shop, and before I left I asked one of the sales guys 'if I wanted to climb, where would I start?"  He said "You might try posting an an ad in Mountain Project" and wrote the website address on a napkin for me. 

I remember buying a book on climbing while I was there.  Later, I handed that climbing book off to my daughter who likes outdoor sports and she said "Mom, maybe YOU should try this!". NO WAY. But I was becoming more and more unable to concentrate at my work, constantly drifting over to Mountain Project, feeling antsy--not getting anything done at my job... and finally I posted an SOS to the community.  

It was Guy, followed by Helen... who welcomed me online, and who encouraged me to consider the unthinkable:  chucking everything, including my home and business, kids and grandkids and moving to Joshua Tree.  

Having NO climbing background, no athletic calling, and no idea of the magnitude of moving here... this group meant everything.  I leaned on the combined stoke and knowledge of everyone here so heavily with profound gratitude.  And now it's #43.  

----

I gotta say Ward's picture was total inspiration.  Thank you, Ward!  I REALLY needed that!  Dealing with my own medical issues since last September, the medication I have been taking (which is working, thank god), also added 10-15 pounds to my frame.  I was warned.  So, not only have I felt much weakened, I have also felt FAT.  I strongly considered just not climbing again.  

But I realized that part of climbing (for me) is to stop with the competitiveness, and even body hate, and accept where I'm at this minute, and deal with it.  I have climbed this year feeling really lousy on some days, feeling some shame, aghast at going 'backwards' grade-wise.  But, also, climbing with some pride.  It turns out I don't have to be a perfect '10' to be happy, or scale all my intended climbs this year.  Here we are, with some injuries, setbacks, 'issues'... but we are here.  For some reason I really felt it when Guy had his back surgery... so happy for him as he got back on his feet, and even climbing.  This is a hearty crew, no one is complaining.   So I do hope we continue sharing personal stories, and enjoying just being in a body, climbing when and what we can.  :-)