Fingerboard or Kilter/Touchstone/Tension/Moon boards to build strength to get to V9?

Li Huwrote:

Just started +150 pounds on 33mm hangs, open grip.

Got two 5.12 clean last week in a single session, first time in one evening and my hands can still grip into a tight fist after 5 days in a row of climbing or weighted finger training.

Finger strength isn’t a barrier until I attempt high 12s and low 13s. Working towards +160 to +180 pounds, and when I get to those weights, plan to add 34mm campus and add more time to the hangs For reference, I’m 191.5 pounds.

Hope to be able to start to climb 13s within a few more months of weighted finger training? V6 at my gym isn’t 5.13, it’s closer to 5.12a or b. V8-9 is closer to 5.13 and I’m at least 30 pounds added weight from having the strength to attempt them safely.

Adding 20mm edge half crimp at 45 to 90 pounds added weight along with the current +150 pounds 33mm grips.

Your math ain't mathing for me

3-16-2026 open hand 33mm edge 1 sets of 4 115 pounds, 1 set at 155 pounds, 4 sets at 150 pounds 5 second bounce holds. 35 pounds at 20mm half crimp, attempted 70 nearly got a 5 second hang.

Stopped before any potential for injury, just getting used to half crimps on 20mm and 35 pounds on 15mm.

Last time I go to the general gym area, will go back to the training centre for more privacy. People were gawking   

3-17-2026 climbed, struggling on 5.12b, even a harder 5.11c  probably tired from upping the weight the day prior along with starting half crimp on 20mm and 15mm edges.

Hoping to get to +160 or +180 pounds 33mm 5 to 20 seconds by August, but not sure I can get to +180? +160 likely. Goal is 20 seconds 33mm.

Li Huwrote:

3-16-2026 open hand 33mm edge 1 sets of 4 115 pounds, 1 set at 155 pounds, 4 sets at 150 pounds 5 second bounce holds. 35 pounds at 20mm half crimp, attempted 70 nearly got a 5 second hang.

Stopped before any potential for injury, just getting used to half crimps on 20mm and 35 pounds on 15mm.

Last time I go to the general gym area, will go back to the training centre for more privacy. People were gawking   

3-17-2026 climbed, struggling on 5.12b, even a harder 5.11c  probably tired from upping the weight the day prior along with starting half crimp on 20mm and 15mm edges.

Hoping to get to +160 or +180 pounds 33mm 5 to 20 seconds by August, but not sure I can get to +180? +160 likely. Goal is 20 seconds 33mm.

Geez bro, save some for the rest of us

Credit Dr. Tyler Nelson

Trevor Kerberwrote:

Credit Dr. Tyler Nelson

Translate for the illiterate non-nerds, please

Basically once Li (or anyone) takes the weight off their harness, their ability to passively hang that weight goes away. Hanging with 1.80*bodyweight only trains your fingers to be able to hang that much, it does nothing to get you ready to pull V9 or 5.13 moves. It's kind of like a huge gasoline generator. It might have big horsepower, but it isn't connected to wheels, so you can't tow anything with it. Thus why the climbing goal is difficult when attempted in Li's case, because climbing Kilter/Touchstone/Tension/Moon V9 and/or climbing 5.13 requires something that is NOT simply hanging. 1.8*bodyweight. Unless Li's 5.13 includes 40' of 5.9, stopping at a ledge, adding 155lb to the harness, hanging for 5 seconds, then taking the weight off before climbing 40' more of 5.9 to the chains, then this sort of training is not necessarily going to result in a 5.13 send. Of course, there could be application exercises that we don't know about, where Li is applying the hanging gains to turn them into climbing/pulling gains, but if all the climbing-related activity is: hang fuckton of weight (passively) + try to pull on route (actively) the gap between BIG NUMBER HANG OFF HARNESS and YDS NUMBER SENT will remain. 

My apologies if my understanding of the science is incorrect. I don't have a degree in any of this stuff and I only read what is free online. 

Trevor Kerberwrote:

Basically once Li (or anyone) takes the weight off their harness, their ability to passively hang that weight goes away. Hanging with 1.80*bodyweight only trains your fingers to be able to hang that much, it does nothing to get you ready to pull V9 or 5.13 moves. It's kind of like a huge gasoline generator. It might have big horsepower, but it isn't connected to wheels, so you can't tow anything with it. Thus why the climbing goal is difficult when attempted in Li's case, because climbing Kilter/Touchstone/Tension/Moon V9 and/or climbing 5.13 requires something that is NOT simply hanging. 1.8*bodyweight. Unless Li's 5.13 includes 40' of 5.9, stopping at a ledge, adding 155lb to the harness, hanging for 5 seconds, then taking the weight off before climbing 40' more of 5.9 to the chains, then this sort of training is not necessarily going to result in a 5.13 send. Of course, there could be application exercises that we don't know about, where Li is applying the hanging gains to turn them into climbing/pulling gains, but if all the climbing-related activity is: hang fuckton of weight (passively) + try to pull on route (actively) the gap between BIG NUMBER HANG OFF HARNESS and YDS NUMBER SENT will remain. 

My apologies if my understanding of the science is incorrect. I don't have a degree in any of this stuff and I only read what is free online. 

I don't know what study from Tyler you are referencing, so I am not going to argue...with that said, I can agree with your overall sentiment in that the application does not translate directly to actual climbing (i.e. being able to hang with a certain amount weight does not equate to climbing a certain grade) but I do disagree with your claim that once the weight is removed, their ability to passively hang goes away. That's not how strength works, if I am to understand you correctly. For example, if I can bench press 300lbs, my ability to push that much weight doesn't immediately disappear just because I am no longer on the bench. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying, but if you are training finger strength properly, then your finger strength will improve...which is obviously a large factor in climbing. Yes the results may seem less dramatic, but I am confident any climber will see significant gains unless they are already climbing above the V10/5.14a level.

Trevor Kerberwrote:

Basically once Li (or anyone) takes the weight off their harness, their ability to passively hang that weight goes away. Hanging with 1.80*bodyweight only trains your fingers to be able to hang that much, it does nothing to get you ready to pull V9 or 5.13 moves. It's kind of like a huge gasoline generator. It might have big horsepower, but it isn't connected to wheels, so you can't tow anything with it. Thus why the climbing goal is difficult when attempted in Li's case, because climbing Kilter/Touchstone/Tension/Moon V9 and/or climbing 5.13 requires something that is NOT simply hanging. 1.8*bodyweight. Unless Li's 5.13 includes 40' of 5.9, stopping at a ledge, adding 155lb to the harness, hanging for 5 seconds, then taking the weight off before climbing 40' more of 5.9 to the chains, then this sort of training is not necessarily going to result in a 5.13 send. Of course, there could be application exercises that we don't know about, where Li is applying the hanging gains to turn them into climbing/pulling gains, but if all the climbing-related activity is: hang fuckton of weight (passively) + try to pull on route (actively) the gap between BIG NUMBER HANG OFF HARNESS and YDS NUMBER SENT will remain. 

My apologies if my understanding of the science is incorrect. I don't have a degree in any of this stuff and I only read what is free online. 

What I’ve noticed is that big number climb holds are no longer a bottleneck. Likely true that I may have reached a level at 1.8x body weight where it’s maxed out for climbs that I’m interested in. That is no further gains are expected until I adjust my training.

Here’s my current full weekly schedule:

Monday — Strength + Technique

Goal: Maintain finger strength, sharpen footwork

    •    Weighted hangs (reduced intensity):

    ◦    3–4 sets of 5–7 seconds at 70–80% of your max

    ◦    You don’t need +160 lb twice a week anymore

    •    Technique drills (45–60 min):

    ◦    Silent feet

    ◦    Precision edging on vertical

    ◦    Downclimb every warm-up route

    ◦    No-hands slab or “hands behind back” climbing

    •    Easy mileage: 3–5 pitches of 5.10–5.11- focusing on perfect movement

This day builds skill, not fatigue.

Tuesday — Limit Bouldering (Fresh Day #1)

Goal: Improve movement quality and power

    •    Warm-up: 20–30 min progressive boulders

    •    Limit bouldering:

    ◦    4–6 problems at V6–V8 difficulty

    ◦    Work each for 10–15 minutes max

    ◦    Focus on:

    ▪    Foot precision

    ▪    Hip positioning

    ▪    Generating power from legs

    •    Coordination practice: 2–3 modern-style comp problems

    •    Core (optional): 10–15 min

This is your most important session of the week.

Wednesday — Rest or Mobility + Technique

Goal: Recover while improving movement patterns
Choose one depending on fatigue:

Option A — Full rest
Option B — Light technique session (30–45 min):

    •    Foot swaps

    •    High-step repeaters

    •    Drop-knee practice

    •    Flagging drills

    •    Easy slab climbing

This day keeps your movement sharp without taxing your fingers.

Thursday — Sport Climbing / Power Endurance (Fresh Day #2)

Goal: Build the engine for 5.13 routes
Choose depending on your goals:

Option A — Route projecting

    •    Warm up

    •    2–3 burns on a 5.12c–5.13a project

    •    Focus on:

    ◦    Rest positions

    ◦    Sequencing

    ◦    Footwork under fatigue

    ◦    Breathing and pacing

Option B — Power endurance

    •    4×4 boulders (V3–V5)

    •    Linked boulders (two V4–V5 back-to-back)

    •    Route laps (5.11+/5.12- with short rests)

This is the day that will push you into 5.13 territory.

Friday — Volume + Technique

Goal: Build movement fluency and aerobic capacity

    •    60–90 minutes of moderate climbing

    •    Stay in the 5.10–5.11+ range

    •    Focus on:

    ◦    Silent feet

    ◦    Smooth pacing

    ◦    Relaxed grip

    ◦    Efficiency

This day builds the “easy climbing” skill that makes 5.13 feel manageable.

Saturday — Outdoor Projecting or Gym Power

Goal: Apply skills or build power
Option A — Outdoor climbing

    •    Work on 5.12+/5.13- routes

    •    Practice redpoint strategy

    •    Build confidence on real rock

Option B — Gym power session

    •    Limit bouldering (V6–V8)

    •    Campus board (optional, low volume)

    •    Dynamic movement practice

This day is flexible but should be high quality.

Sunday — Full Rest

Goal: Let your nervous system recover

    •    No climbing

    •    Light walking, stretching, or mobility

    •    Eat well, sleep well

This is essential for long-term progress.

Most of the time, I’ll rest Saturday and Sunday. Depending upon how I feel.

Are you limit bouldering/projecting V6?

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

Are you limit bouldering/projecting V6?

I can’t flash V6…   

Li Huwrote:

I can’t flash V6…   

I think you’re prescribed regiment that you listed earlier is great then. Also, don’t listen to the dude above trying to shit on dead hangs. The info they are talking about is referencing elite climbers. I would recommend more volume than training though. The strength and power will come from climbing more. Consistent training is great for quickly progressing through plateau but nothing beats time climbing. Shit, Sharma has famously rarely trained and is arguably the greatest sport climber. 

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

I think you’re prescribed regiment that you listed earlier is great then. Also, don’t listen to the dude above trying to shit on dead hangs. The info they are talking about is referencing elite climbers. I would recommend more volume than training though. The strength and power will come from climbing more. Consistent training is great for quickly progressing through plateau but nothing beats time climbing. Shit, Sharma has famously rarely trained and is arguably the greatest sport climber. 

Perfect! Thanks for the advices and affirmations.

Maybe try this? :-)

Mark E Dixonwrote:

Maybe try this? :-)

Ha haha! Got the message    

Scoped out a new 5.12c and two 5.13a climbs at the gym. The smallest holds feel reasonable. I like the power climb where there’s three roughly 25mm to 35mm holds requiring sideways campus moves. Cool!

The toughest moves feel tenable. Then went back and led a 5.12a to finish for the day.

Plus 160 pound hangs on 33mm edges with open hand grips are definitely building strength for my target climbs. Going to make an attempt on the 13a climbs at the end of this month or early April.

Dropping max hangs to once a week. Spend more time limit bouldering and climbing harder. I think I’m close to the strength needed. Also, no weighted hangs this week. Need rest.

Something is up with the grades. You mentioned projecting V6 (you don’t directly answer my question so I’m inferring here) but are giving a 13a redpoint burns? What am I missing?

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

Something is up with the grades. You mentioned projecting V6 (you don’t directly answer my question so I’m inferring here) but are giving a 13a redpoint burns? What am I missing?

Yeah, not flashing them, meaning I mess up and can’t get on any V6 one time and do it. Close on some but not guaranteed.

I’m just planning to start 5.13a red point attempts. Probably start clip to clip for some time yet.

Some V7 and V8 look doable with dozens of attempts maybe, but I’m really not a boulder climber. Just don’t really enjoy doing them.

Li Huwrote:

Yeah, not flashing them, meaning I mess up and can’t get on any V6 one time and do it. Close on some but not guaranteed.

I’m just planning to start 5.13a red point attempts. Probably start clip to clip for some time yet.

Some V7 and V8 look doable with dozens of attempts maybe, but I’m really not a boulder climber. Just don’t really enjoy doing them.

There's a reason the crux on sport routes are referred to as boulder problems....remember that...

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

There's a reason the crux on sport routes are referred to as boulder problems....remember that...

Now that my fingers are strong again, I suppose I could get back on boulders? 

But my preference is to work them on climbs either on TR or lead in the gym. I have patient belayers, and am patient with them working climbs as well.

Li Huwrote:

Scoped out a new 5.12c  (edit: now 2 of them)

Figured out all the lower moves. Got 2/3 way up then hung on a “rest” hold with my feet dangling a bit. Felt tired and told my belay to “take”. Looked up and realised the remaining portion of the climb was only 5.12a at the hardest.   

The other one I can likely do fresh. Both are getting easier once I dial in the moves. Going to only TR them for a bit. Better…and stay off 5.13a until I get a few more 5.12c and 5.12d climbs…