Vegas Rescue Team - Multiple Red Rock Accident Recaps

Topher Dabrowskiwrote:

One way I try to mitigate this unclipping phenomenon is to use 2 carabiners on the alpine draw at the rope connection when I can. This will mainly happen when I make a cam placement because the cam has a racking biner I can clip the sling to, and then use the pair of biners that came with the alpine draw to clip to the rope - ideally gates reversed.

Like in Vegas, it's always a crap shoot!

Hey Topher! For years I've been in the habit of pulling off the cam-racking-biner and adding it to the rope side of the long sling, then opposing, to create a locking biner equivalent on the long sling, whether or not I've extended the sling. 

But as was said, this doesn't work with a nut on a long sling - I may finally start carrying a couple extra biners when I'm climbing a long pitch where I foresee having to long sling nuts. Once you get in the habit of adding the extra biner on long slings it's hard to break, almost like wearing a seat belt in a car. And If I'm busting out a long sling in the first place I'm usually at a good stance so it doesn't cost me much to add this redundancy and get peace of mind 

Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

Yeah Matt that Epi one caught my eye too.

"It was determined that the climbers were unprepared to continue the climb into the night. They also were unable to self rescue and rappel off the climb as they only brought one rope."

"This party brought only one rope, one headlamp, moved slower than they anticipated, and got themselves in over their heads, resulting in them making the choice to call for rescue."

This rescue is one of very, very few where it's a little shameful to call SAR, in my opinion. Very unprepared and they found themselves inconvenienced, so they used SAR resources. 

I'd love to know more about the party that got off route on P6 of Myster Z, couldn't find a suitable anchor location, nor return to their partner. They were described as well equipped and prepared, but I am having trouble seeing see why they couldn't get themselves out of that one.