John Burchum

UPDATE 1 – The Accident Report

Wednesday – December 10

While doing something he had done a thousand times and loved, John Burcham fell 40 feet while establishing what would have been another classic ground-up climbing route in a remote part of Sedona. Before this fateful day, he and Seth Dyer had put in three arduous days breaking into new, uncharted territory in the hinterlands of Northern Arizona. With a smile like a Cheshire cat and the hope of any kid on Christmas morning, he cast off into the unknown of the sheer rock face, ground up, leading into new and yet unpredictable territory.

About 40 feet up, the sub-pillar within the chimney collapsed violently, sending John careening down in an uncontrollable fall and causing all of his protection to rip out. His fall was long and violent that he had time to call out in fear before he cratered next to his climbing partner, Seth Dyer, where he had begun just six minutes prior.

On impact, the pillar of rock exploded around and onto him. Tragically, a coffee-table-sized boulder landed directly on the upper part of his body, breaking nearly every bone in his face. His climbing partners, Seth Dyer and Dave Speis (Speis came that day to help with shuttling gear to the base), immediately sprang into action, uncovering him and providing critical aid. Their fast response, technical skill, and clear thinking were life-saving.

Thankfully, John was wearing a helmet. Yet it was split with a crack straight down the middle, and the entire back of it broke, but it did its job, saving his life. (See photos.)

As rescue efforts continued, the family made their way to the hospital, receiving only sporadic updates on John’s vitals. Bernadette, his wife, being a nurse, understood the severity of the situation, and the trauma team began preparing the family for the worst.

The terrain made extraction extremely difficult. After hours of coordination, Arizona DPS officers were able to reach John by helicopter using a 240-foot-long line, which did not reach him directly—only to the sloping ledge nearly 1,700 feet above the canyon floor. Seth and Dave used their climbing gear and expert skills to help the DPS paramedic get to them at the base of the technical climb. The rescue was serious and dangerous, and their combined skill sets and swift, decisive actions made all the difference.

Within six minutes of takeoff, the DPS helicopter landed at the only Level 1 Trauma Center in Northern Arizona, in Flagstaff—six minutes that felt like an eternity as John was touch-and-go on staying alive.

The hospital team moved efficiently with life-saving measures, including blood transfusions due to significant blood loss. John drifted in and out of consciousness. His face was severely swollen, cut, and bruised. Multiple scans revealed small brain bleeds, air around the brain, and fluid in his lungs and stomach—all serious but expected given the fall. The most severe injuries were to his face, where many of the bones were broken or crushed. Remarkably, he suffered no other broken bones.

That night was especially difficult. John underwent surgery to access his sinuses and relieve pressure and obstructions.

Update by: Paul Guzman, John’s son-in-law, who will continue to provide day-by-day updates here to help keep everyone informed and help paint the whole picture.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/mzkve-help-with-accident?attribution_id=sl:bf768c93-8c78-4f6b-8363-ebc3f8cb00a3&lang=en_US&ts=1765940348&utm_campaign=fp_sharesheet&utm_content=amp17_td&utm_medium=customer&utm_source=facebook

Hey Seth thank you for sharing and I’m sorry you had to deal with this rescue (But thankful you and Dave were there to handle it).  I know how traumatic these events can be, as another long time partner shattered his neck on Lake Powell and I had to organize the rescue (3 helicopters, 6 hour event).

You probably know John and I had a falling out nearly 20 years ago.  I believe the last time I saw him (or you) was at a party at your house.

I hope that everyone who has ever done a Burcham route in Sedona can contribute at least a few bucks towards his surely long recovery.  There is little doubt that John Burcham revolutionized Sedona climbing.  I’m not into the scene now, but I would have to think that he is the absolute most influential climber to have ever graced Sedona.  His classic Sedona routes must measure in the dozens.  With teary eyes, wishing you the best healing and recovery John and Seth and Dave.

Albert Newmanwrote:

Hey Seth thank you for sharing and I’m sorry you had to deal with this rescue (But thankful you and Dave were there to handle it).  I know how traumatic these events can be, as another long time partner shattered his neck on Lake Powell and I had to organize the rescue (3 helicopters, 6 hour event).

You probably know John and I had a falling out nearly 20 years ago.  I believe the last time I saw him (or you) was at a party at your house.

I hope that everyone who has ever done a Burcham route in Sedona can contribute at least a few bucks towards his surely long recovery.  There is little doubt that John Burcham revolutionized Sedona climbing.  I’m not into the scene now, but I would have to think that he is the absolute most influential climber to have ever graced Sedona.  His classic Sedona routes must measure in the dozens.  With teary eyes, wishing you the best healing and recovery John and Seth and Dave.

So, funny story but I'm not the Seth Dyer that is John Birchum's climbing partner. One of my climbing friends sent me the link and I was like "oh shit, I know about that guy! He has my name." I haven't climbed any of there routes yet. But there on my list.

Worst nightmare…… 

Praying for a good outcome 🙏

Maybe I'm just a little emotional after my recent accident but this one hit hard.

Wow. Sounds like John is lucky to be alive after a fall like that. Praying that he recovers, and quickly. 

Very sad to hear this news... I know first hand how important it is to have many friends and support at a time like this. Glad Dave and Seth were there to help. I also know what Sedona rock can be like having lived and climbed there considerably: solid as can  be and then kitty litter. Best heartfelt wishes for a good recovery, John. Your routes are always the best!

WOW. so glad he is alive! and hope for as full recovery. 

Right now he is dealing with a traumatic brain injury and is blind.

Sucks so much

Positive vibes to John and the whole Flagstaff climbing community!

Seth Dyerwrote:

Right now he is dealing with a traumatic brain injury and is blind.

Sucks so much

Freaking awful to hear, Seth... So sorry for John and his family, you, and Dave whom I know pretty well and have climbed with a few times. Last time, I guess, was 2021; John, Dave, and I went to finish up and climb a route they were working on.

Update 3: "Journal Entries" Hi All — I have been keeping a high-level journal of John’s day-to-day progress, starting with Day 2 after the accident. Day 2 — Thursday, December 11 A very challenging day for John and the family. He was disoriented, unable to remember the fall, and struggling with heavy pain medication—something he isn’t accustomed to—which contributed to agitation and frustration. He was diagnosed with a traumatic brain injury (TBI) and was exhibiting many typical symptoms. He is also unable to see out of his right eye. Doctors are unsure if his vision will return, but the good news is that his retina remains attached. Day 3 — Friday, December 12 John had a rough night. Due to the TBI, he was placed in restraints for his safety and the safety of others. He remains very physically strong—as we all know, John is super fit. He was often confused, sometimes believing he was at home, and would complain that his bed was uncomfortable. He recognizes Bernadette, Dominique, and Beckett’s voices and repeatedly tries to convince Dominique and Beckett to help him escape. Day 4 — Saturday, December 13 John underwent another facial surgery in the morning. Three plates and twenty-one screws were placed. The surgery was a success, and he did incredibly well. We are hopeful this helped relieve some of the pressure on his brain. One day after his second surgery, John’s facial swelling improved significantly. Though still confused, he was able to answer some basic questions. Later that day, he was able to sit up on his own and, with help from physical therapy, took his first steps since the accident. Day 5 — Sunday, December 14 Great news. I had a full conversation with John. He remembers climbing on Wednesday, understands what’s happening, and is walking with assistance walking. His strength is incredible. Compared to just 24 hours earlier, his mental clarity was night and day. It truly felt like his brain was rebooting. Over the following days, John had full conversations with doctors, family, and friends. His cognitive function continued to improve, though he tired very quickly. Swelling around his eyes still prevented him from seeing clearly, but he remained in good spirits. Day 6 — Monday, December 15 Another good day for John. His eyes were still swollen shut from Saturday’s surgery, so he couldn’t see yet, but he was already joking about what kind of nose the doctor gave him—Brad Pitt or Michael Jackson. He worked with physical therapy and did well. Day 7 — Tuesday, December 16 Another positive day. John worked with a speech pathologist, but visitors were limited since he was still in the ICU. As he works with more specialists, he tires quickly, so phone calls are minimal. Please understand that Bernadette and Dominique were managing a large number of calls and texts while prioritizing John’s care. They responded when they could—thank you for your patience and understanding. John’s speech and cognition continued to improve. He still becomes fatigued after longer conversations and can become agitated if overworked. His memory is sharp when well-rested but more confused when fatigued. Physical therapy helped him continue walking :) He was able to go outside for the first time since being hospitalized to get some fresh air. He also had his first shower, which was a huge relief, and a phone conversation with his brother and sister that lifted his spirits. An ophthalmology visit confirmed there was no obvious nerve damage to his eyes or retina. Once the swelling reduces, he will return for a follow-up exam in a couple of weeks. Day 9 — Thursday, December 18 We’re thankful for the continued progress John has made over the past few days. Day 10 — Friday, December 19 Good morning, all. Last night and this morning were both good for John. He has been able to eat a little, even if only bone broth. His condition has improved enough that doctors decided to move him out of the ICU and place him at the Rehabilitation Center here in Flagstaff. More details to follow as things develop. Day 11 — Saturday, December 20 John had a very rough day. He was confused for most of the day and is still unable to see. This was one of the more challenging days, but we understand this is common with a TBI. John ate a little and was able to take a shower, which helped him feel somewhat refreshed. Day 12 — Sunday, December 21 John is in better spirits today. He had visitors and was able to do some physical therapy this morning. With assistance, he got into a wheelchair and went outside, where he worked on walking with his doctor. I hope to have more updates later this afternoon. Though there is still swelling around his eyes, it continues to improve daily. John remains unable to fully open his eyes or see clearly, but we’re happy to share that he has been transferred out of the ICU and moved to the Rehabilitation Hospital of Northern Arizona here in Flagstaff to continue his recovery. With the unpredictable nature of a TBI, each day brings new challenges and unknowns. John has a long road ahead, but we will continue to keep everyone informed. Bernadette and Dominique have been by John’s side nonstop throughout this ordeal, and if they don’t respond right away, it’s because their full focus is on John. We are deeply grateful for all of your support, love, and kindness. Your thoughts, prayers, and contributions mean the world to John and our family.

Once again I'm Not the same Seth Dyer. However I am a climber and I donated to the gofundme for John. 

Seems like he is doing better and the funds are at about 87,000

THANK YOU Seth. Amazing and wonderful what you’ve done in keeping this community informed about John. Again, thanks 🙏🏼.  Good to hear some good news and positive direction.

I feel compelled to comment despite not knowing John personally. I live in Williams, AZ and have climbed in Sedona — possibly John’s routes, but I’m not sure.

About a year ago I had a TBI resulting from a wakeboarding accident. It’s a crazy journey and everybody’s experience is very different. Praying that John and his family receive healing and peace.

Optimum vision and eye care in Scottsdale have really helped me with my Nuero-visual symptoms. I recommend them if a Neuro ophthalmologist comes into the picture. It took me numerous months of self advocating before that option was presented as a potential remedy.

“The Lord is close to the brokenhearted and saves those who are crushed in spirit.”

-Psalm 34:18

Yesterday

New

Burcham FamilyOrganizer

Thank you from the Burcham Family.

From the bottom of our hearts, we want to thank everyone who has helped support John and our family during his recovery. The kindness, generosity, and love shown to us has been overwhelming and deeply humbling.

Thank you to everyone who contributed to the GoFundMe, participated in the Meal Train, visited, sent cards, dropped off flowers, and reached out with words of encouragement. Every act of support, no matter how big or small, has meant more to us than we can express.

We are deeply grateful to the rescue personnel, FMC personnel, DPS Rangers, and the RHNA staff for their professionalism, compassion, and care. We also want to thank the community at large for surrounding our family with prayers, kindness, and support.

To all who have helped in any way, please know how extremely thankful we are. Your support has lifted us and carried us through this challenging time.

While the long-term medical outlook is still uncertain and there are no new updates at this time, we know the journey ahead will be a long one, and we are incredibly thankful for your patience, understanding, and ongoing support.

With heartfelt gratitude,

The Burcham Family

Once again, I'm not the same Seth Dyer that was involved in the accident.

Thanks for keeping us posted, Seth. We’re all anxiously waiting for good news on John’s recovery. 🙏🏼

Hey! Anybody know what’s happening with John? Haven’t heard anything for 2 months now 

Updates

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Today

New

Burcham FamilyOrganizer

Greetings, Friends of Burcham.

We wanted to send a long-overdue update on where things stand for John, and fill in some of what has happened since our last post on January 6th.

Where John Is Now

John is home, and the progress he has made is, by any measure, remarkable. He is holding great conversation, moving around the house on his own, and fully engaged with his physical therapy, dedicated and driven. He has lost weight through everything he has been through, but his appetite is back, and his strength will follow. That perseverance is classic John. Above all,l his sense of humor remains intact. His sharpness, saltiness, thankfully, cannot be taken away.

When Sarah Holditch, the president of Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition, visited recently and read aloud the well-wishes so many of you had written at his fundraiser, John got emotional. Knowing how many people are out there pulling for him means everything as he navigates this new chapter. Your words reached him, and they mattered.

John’s Vision is Improving, But The Road to Recovery Remains Long

He describes his left eye as a few shades darker than normal — like twilight — but is otherwise seeing out of it. His right eye still cannot open on its own, which causes double vision when opened manually. Phones and computers remain inaccessible for now. The road is long and uncertain, but the trajectory is positive, and the recovery so far has been nothing short of remarkable.

Life day to day

John is embracing his "new normal" and focusing on his independence. He continues to make daily progress with small but significant tasks, such as helping with family breakfast and making coffee every morning. John is becoming more active, attending physical therapy several times a week. Notably, he has progressed in his outdoor activities; Buffalo hikes, which once required a walker, are now accomplished using only trekking poles.

Bernadette currently works part-time but intends to transition to full-time employment. Her current schedule allows her to spend the rest of her time with him.

Support from their community remains strong. Their friend Seth visits often and brings his amazing cooking for the family multiple times a week, and friends regularly take John out for lunch.

How You Can Help

John’s progress has been remarkable, and your ongoing emotional support is invaluable to his continued healing. If you are looking for other ways to stay connected:

Call or leave a voice message — John cannot read texts yet, but loves hearing from people

Take him to lunch — getting out with a friend is genuinely meaningful to him and keeps his spirits high.

Hearing from friends has been priceless

Thanks so much for the update. Glad to hear of some good news for John; sounds like a long ways to go yet, though.