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Roof cracks

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Serenity Fuentes · · CA/NM · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0

Does anyone have any recommendations for roof cracks in Joshua tree. Or even general Southern California area 

Zack Smith · · Wyoming · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 60

What grade range and size are you looking to climb?

Serenity Fuentes · · CA/NM · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0
Zack Smithwrote:

What grade range and size are you looking to climb?

Any grade range, and fist to hand cracks 

Zack Smith · · Wyoming · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 60

Rollerball and more monkey than funky are mostly hands. Castaway fits the bill too but it ends in a wide crack. If you walk around hidden valley campground, there are a couple handfuls of bouldering roof cracks to climb

Drew R · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 50
Alex Chiang · · Culver City, CA · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 92

Big Bob's Big Wedge comes to mind: mountainproject.com/route/1…

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Pigpen (V4) in JTree is also worth a mention. While it isn't pure jamming, it is still a roof crack, and an accessible classic worth seeking out.

Tanner James · · Tahoe · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 1,658

River of life at El Cajon mountain is likely the best roof crack in socal. Very sandbagged at 11d but outstanding, definitely the Separate Reality of the region 

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,800

Rice cake roof, super roof, crime of the century, big bobs big wedge, grit roof, pigpen, more monkey than funky, monkey buisness, roofing buisness, comfortably numb, maneater, morongo man

Brandon R · · CA · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 228

Hobbit Roof and Trashman Roof are a couple smaller and easier roof cracks. 

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,800

Across from Stoney point in The Garden of the Gods is a 5.11+ hand crack called Martian Landing. In Santa Barbara at Lizards Mouth there is “Worst Idea of the Century” crack and “The 5.11 crack” and at the Brickyard there is “Cathulu Crack”. These are all bouldering routes. 

Clint Cummins · · Palo Alto, CA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,759

The Nose at Gibraltar Rock, Santa Barbara.  Checks in at the relatively moderate grade of 5.11a.

I haven't done it myself, but my friend has photos of himself hanging from a hand jam mid crux and removing his trousers!    

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105793054/the-nose

Bill Flaherty · · San Diego, CA · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 205

I know of a couple good crack boulders at Black Mountain:

5.10+ hands roof crack at Velvet Ridge. It’s in the guidebook, not on MP

Roadside Wide Crack at Lower Basin 

Permaculture (blue / V3-V5) at the Western Slope - stemming dihedral to widening roof crack. Never tried it myself, looks wild

Erik Moore · · CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 56

It's a bit hot over here in the Inland Empire but this is supposed to be immaculate:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114933738/roof-crack

Heyzeus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0
Erik Moorewrote:

It's a bit hot over here in the Inland Empire but this is supposed to be immaculate:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114933738/roof-crack

Looks burley.

little b neil · · Joshua Tree · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/122204979 GHOST ROCK …Johnson valley
Skullets and LSD  V4…all day shade!

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 1,186

Rice Cake Roof 5.11 on Fool Proof Tower in Joshua Tree.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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