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Big Bob's Big Wedge
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British V5 YDS 6C Font
Avg: 3.9 from 63
votes
Routes in Big Bob's Big Wedge
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Annie's Little Slice S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beam Aboard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Bob's Big Wedge 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V5 6C |
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Big Bob's Little Wedge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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End Of The Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hobo Chang Ba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Washoe Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Boulder, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 33.99973, -116.05138 |
| FA: | Mike Lechlinski |
| Page Views: | 12,428 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | JNE on Dec 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is one of the best crack problems anywhere. It starts out tight offwidth/big fists and fires out the slightly rising roof for thirty+ more feet of hands and fists, culminating in a wide exit that people overcome with various techniques probably mostly dependent on their hand size. The last moves can be committing.
This should be on every wide-crack climber's tick list for Joshua Tree. The 5.11 rating is what's given in the Vogel guide, while the V5 is what's given in the bouldering guide (That guy also only gave it three out of five stars. Guess he doesn't do much crack bouldering). Personally I would lean toward the V5 end of things, which would approximately translate to a YDS grade of 5.12. Absolutely spectacular!
Photos
Videos
Jon Hartmann
Here is a video of climbing from the start to the offwidth and dropping off.…
Jul 20, 2014
9 Comments