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Routes in Big Bob's Big Wedge

Annie's Little Slice S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Beam Aboard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Big Bob's Big Wedge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Big Bob's Little Wedge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
End Of The Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobo Chang Ba T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Washoe Crack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Boulder, 40 ft
FA: Mike Lechlinski
Page Views: 5,853 total, 44/month
Shared By: JNE on Dec 21, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

This is one of the best crack problems anywhere. It starts out tight offwidth/big fists and fires out the slightly rising roof for thirty+ more feet of hands and fists, culminating in a wide exit that people overcome with various techniques probably mostly dependent on their hand size. The last moves can be committing.

This should be on every wide-crack climber's tick list for Joshua Tree. The 5.11 rating is what's given in the Vogel guide, while the V5 is what's given in the bouldering guide (That guy also only gave it three out of five stars. Guess he doesn't do much crack bouldering). Personally I would lean toward the V5 end of things, which would approximately translate to a YDS grade of 5.12. Absolutely spectacular!

Location

Park at Live Oak near the oak tree and head down into the little valley on the other side of the formation. Big Bob's Big Wedge is under the huge unmistakable boulder nestled at the base of one of the formations.

Protection

A couple of pads/spotters are nice, especially if you leavitate the lip, as you will be upside down a ways off the ground and it's easy for your feet to get stuck and your too far away from your spotters for them to help you.
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
Jon Hartmann   Ojai, CA
Here is a video of climbing from the start to the offwidth and dropping off. I've aid climbed the offwidth and set a toprope to clip into when you get to the lip and it's great fun trying to turn the lip. I've gone inverted, inverted and in the splits, I've tried to hand stack, armbar and chicken wing but this climb is just too mighty for me. Still, it's rewarding just to climb to the lip.

Climbing Big Bobs Big Wedge here Jul 20, 2014
Michael Levato
  5.11 V5+
Michael Levato  
  5.11 V5+
its not necessary to get inverted to top this one out Feb 13, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.12 V5
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.12 V5
First 26 feet are cruiser. Last 4 are horrendously difficult. All 30 deserve every star they can get. Jan 14, 2012
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Thanks Russ. I always wondered about the name because it is peculiar and I figured it had some slightly hidden meaning. Really awesome problem, right up there with The Crack House IMO. Still can't believe the bouldering guide gives it three out of five stars, what blasphemy. Apr 16, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.12 V5
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.12 V5
Let's see... Big Bob..... hmmm.... figure that out on your own..... Big Wedge.... British slang right from Jerry Moffatts lips.... "wedge" is the same as "penis".... so, there ya go.

You can also hang a toprope cord at the lip and have someone clip you in when you get there to protect the lip encounter should things go bad (as they probably will) Apr 11, 2007
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Any of you older cranksters want to fill us in on the name for this one? Dec 22, 2006