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Climbing goals for 2026

Jason Mills · · Northwest "Where climbers g… · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 8,245

This thread is my accountability partner ...

I've been living in northwest "Where climbers go to die" Montana for the last 17 years ... my time here is (Finally?) coming to an end. With a projected departure date of mid-June, that leaves me four-ish months to send this thing ... not accounting for weather ...

I've developed around 60 routes in the last 10 years, this is the cherry on top: The last line I've developed here is the prettiest line I've ever scrubbed and also the hardest, somewhere in the 12+ range with sustained 11 climbing and multiple 12 sequences.

With "only" four months to do this, the deck is somewhat stacked against me: This is an hour and a half from my house, I work M-F, it's south-facing, I've only sent a handful of 12- routes ever, and, maybe the true crux, finding partners in the climbing desert that is NWMT is hard enough as at is, finding someone to belay me on a (currently) closed project not that close to the road is (understandably) even more daunting/selfish/annoying.

Throughout my climbing "career" my goals have primarily been trip-oriented (travel there, try that), this is the first real "performance" goal I've set for myself ... but, if I think too hard about it, there's probably a lot more to it than that. :)

The line: All bolts, it goes up the dihedral and stays left up the slabby face, 85 ft., name TBA. I spent a few snowy Saturdays in December scrubbing and bolting it and I've managed three TRS sessions thus far this year (apparently it doesn't snow or get that cold in the mountain west anymore); I can do all the moves, now I just need a selfless partner, a weather window, a day off work ... 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Jason….you developing up by Koocanusa ? That rock is so cool. Wish it was less of a pain to get to. The ethic on gear + bolts was gorgeous.

Jason Mills · · Northwest "Where climbers g… · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 8,245
John Clarkwrote:

Jason….you developing up by Koocanusa ? That rock is so cool. Wish it was less of a pain to get to. The ethic on gear + bolts was gorgeous.

Yep, that's primarily where I've developed. Who doesn't love a route that's four bolts, a .3, 3, and a nut? :) 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
Jason Millswrote:

Yep, that's primarily where I've developed. Who doesn't love a route that has four bolts, but needs a .3, 3, and a nut? :) 

Psychos, mixed is best. 

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,068

A couple of things come to mind

  • Rebolt our 2 local test pieces here, they currently feature some potential ground falls. I talked with FA and we’d like to make them more enjoyable.
  • Redpoint said routes
  • Check out this potential new crag on Peter’s Hill that my friend scoped before he moved away.
  • Do more anchor maintenance in Indian Creek. I paused for a bit to put up routes before the BENM plan was solidified.
  • Redpoint swedin ringle - sent it on TR a few times but haven’t been able to get the lead done yet.
F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Cory Nwrote:
  • Redpoint swedin ringle - sent it on TR a few times but haven’t been able to get the lead done yet.

One of my absolute favorites at the grade. Be sure to send someone up Three Strikes for a photo of your redpoint burn!

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

Or clip in to a piece, pretend to be doing a move, and have your belayer take you off to take a quick shot

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 1,393

Or option 3 go climb it tomorrow at 4:12pm and get the shadow photo of you on Sweden projected on three strikes. Everyone wins!

Sam Beeduhl · · Bend, OR · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 443

Rehab shoulder injury. Climb big routes in the mountains with good friends. Get my kids out climbing. Don't die. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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