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What is your Lead Rope Solo AID Anchor setup?

Original Post
Trae McCombs · · Macon · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5

I typically do something like this (ignore the webbing as I typically go super 8 into locking on bolt.  Also I use a Microtrax on a piece above to ensure anchor is never cross-loaded):


I saw this:

Seems equally reasonable.

Thoughts? 
Christian Hesch · · Arroyo Grande, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 55

based on the join date, you're not a bot... but what does the bottom anchor example have to do with an LRS anchor???

first example is fine. Learn how to tie a quick slipknot if you're truly concerned about upward orientation of your anchor biners/connectors. I started out using the slipknot but let's be honest, you have two lockers there? really seems like overkill to use a microtrax to hold upward orientation, I don't think YGD... but ymmv

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357
Trae McCombswrote:

I typically do something like this (ignore the webbing as I typically go super 8 into locking on bolt.  Also I use a Microtrax on a piece above to ensure anchor is never cross-loaded):



 

No need to make it complicated. Just utilize clove hitches in succession like you would (or at least people used to) on a normal big wall anchor. I do this all the time for rope-solo anchors, free or aid, makes no difference. 

The clove hitches are snugged up so as to keep the bottom anchor point oriented upright. They also reduce the need for lockers because they stay fixed/oriented on the 'biner, thus making it less likely for some funky unclippping to occur. 

Bailey Moore · · Yosemite · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 615

I like to use bunny ear figure eight if I want to equalize the bolts.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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