Sport route recommendations for Joshua Tree (first-time climbing there)

Hey all!

I’ve been to Joshua Tree before (was there in August for hiking, cruising through a couple of nearby NPs), but I’m looking to climb there for the first time sometime this year—still figuring out dates.

Would love recommendations for good sport routes that are approachable and well-bolted, especially for someone new to climbing in JT. (I don't do Trad yet, but can follow) 

Open to seasonal advice, areas to focus on, and specific route suggestions. All tips welcome!

Thanks in advance—stoked to climb there finally. (Hopefully) 

I recommend messaging Todd Gordon and/or buying his book

Jay Crewwrote:

I recommend messaging Todd Gordon and/or buying his book

The thing about Todd's book that is very good is that he lists all the routes that are fully bolted, but he also lets you know if it is "old school" or "new school" bolting.  Quite a lot of the older bolted routes have spacing between the bolts that people who learned to climb in the gym consider runout.  And there are not a large number of modern sport bolted ones. You can probably buy a copy at Nomad on the corner of Park Blvd. You also might want to take a look at New Jack City and Fairview Mountain in Apple Valley.  There are hugely more numbers of sport-bolted routes there.

Possibly unpopular opinion

Anyone going to jtree who’s never climbed there and asking for “sport routes” is going to have a bad time. Like. Really

God speed 

But to actually answer your question - do “SW Corner.” It’s a 5.6 and it’s super. Bring a stick clip. Welcome to jtree…

Chris Outingswrote:

Possibly unpopular opinion

Anyone going to jtree who’s never climbed there and asking for “sport routes” is going to have a bad time. Like. Really

God speed 

But to actually answer your question - do “SW Corner.” It’s a 5.6 and it’s super. Bring a stick clip. Welcome to jtree…

Truth. Joshua Tree is not a sport climbing destination. If you pick up Gordon's Joshua Tree Sport Climbs you will see that he very frequently describes a route as "not a modern sport climb, best be solid at the grade" What Todd doesn't say is that even these routes in his guide often lack a sport anchor.

Chris Outingswrote:

Possibly unpopular opinion

Anyone going to jtree who’s never climbed there and asking for “sport routes” is going to have a bad time. Like. Really

As a Jtree climber every weekend, I agree completely if we're talking Jtree proper, i.e., the park itself. Anybody that asks me this question, I just recommend they go to Indian Cove because that is IMO the most friendly place to people who can't trad climb. 

Specifically, Hodgepodge Rock, Jaimie's Rock, Indian Palisades Corridor, Bilbo Buttress, and Feudal Wall. But I'd recommend getting there early, because easy sport routes tend to get mobbed.

Chris Outingswrote:

Possibly unpopular opinion

Anyone going to jtree who’s never climbed there and asking for “sport routes” is going to have a bad time. Like. Really

God speed 

But to actually answer your question - do “SW Corner.” It’s a 5.6 and it’s super. Bring a stick clip. Welcome to jtree…

I probably spent 12 to 15 days climbing at J Tree over the years before I realized that while I'd led 30 or 40 pitches there, not a single one was a fully bolted route. Not even a 5.6 or 5.7. And I was/am pretty comfy at 5.10/11, but those routine 15 or 20 foot runouts are not something your "average sport climber" has much experience with. I'm sure there are some friendly sport routes in the Gordon book, so if it's J Tree or bust, stick to those - but consider another destination if your goal is to find standard issue sport routes.

“Would love recommendations for good sport routes that are approachable and well-bolted”

Sohni, what grade range are you looking for?

It sounds like you really want to "tick the box" of climbing in J-Tree which is understandable but even if Todd was to point you in the direction of some good "sport" routes you'd kind of be missing out on much of what Joshua Tree climbing is all about. So hopefully you can find a partner to show you around and take you up a few of the many classics.

If sport climbing mileage is your goal you'd be much better off going to Spy, Fairview, or New Jack.

Cheers!