Colorado Ice Conditions 2025-2026

steve mwrote:

Does anyone know the current condies for Scottish Gully on Hoosier? Thanks!

Lincoln falls in general is in. Scottish gully is not too thick but definitely worth a visit. 

Moffat Tunnel looked thin today in the middle bit. I talked to some climbers who were there, and they planned on top roping that part. They mentioned that the pillar on the right was creaking the whole time they were there, so that definitely needs more time to grow. But the approach was quite easy today   

Left side

Middle

And you can see a little of the right pillar in this shot

Skyward Mountaineering has brought back a version of Vince Anderson's ice conditions page for popular areas in the San Juan mountains. Should be updated weekly-ish and a good resource for sharing info with the community, dispersing use to more varied routes, and encouraging folks to get after it. Check it out:

https://www.skywardmountaineering.com/ouray-ice-climbing-conditions

Side note, over a decade ago Vince came up with a graphic system to explain the conditions of the routes (thin, normal, or fat ice), this image is a revamp of that system and a good summary of much of the San Juans right now:

Climbed Black Lake West Gully on Sunday. Relatively thick compared to previous conditions I've climbed in, but the ice is fragile with layers not well adhered to each other, and a few spots of onion skin/thin hollow ice to be aware of while simultaneously a decent amount of unfrozen water flowing over parts of the climb. Also, at the top of the first step much of the ice is still unfrozen aka water. Enjoy the screen grabs from the action cam of me realizing that. Still had fun. 

Any info on Rifle Park? Has any ice formed yet? Was thinkkng of checkin it out but never been and not sure when it generally comes in condition..Thanks for any info

The Spear, Rigid Designator, and The Fang, as of 12/8.

AMU still in good condition, but getting a little picked out. The hike up there is a slog with the snow, though. Anyone have a suggestion on best way to approach? Seems every time I go up there I find a different hellish bushwack and get caught by other parties who seem to surpass my navigation skills. 

 Also, anyone lose a GoPro at the base of AMU? I found it. 

Donald Tapiawrote:

Any info on Rifle Park? Has any ice formed yet? Was thinkkng of checkin it out but never been and not sure when it generally comes in condition..Thanks for any info

Anybody been to Moffet lately?

Whose got some recent pics or stories? Anyone been up to black lake or all mixed up? Longs peak cirque? anything in?

C Hwrote:

Anybody been to Moffet lately?

A friend walked to Moffat over the weekend, and took these photos (Thanks Alex!). There's less ice now than there was when I walked back there at the end of November. Also, it looks like the farmed pillar on the right fell over, and the rope may have been the only thing holding it up!

Edit: I went back and looked closer at my photos from the end of November, and what I said above is not quite right. There is certainly thicker ice in the middle flow now compared to then, but the small flows to the left and right of that are smaller to non-existent now. And even though it's thicker now in the middle section, it's not nearly what I would have expected by this point in the season.

Wow, moffat looks terrible. why even bother going? 

Luigi Mwrote:

Wow, why even bother going? 

Interesting article on struggles in Ouray. Basically it's the whole state

https://www.denvergazette.com/outtherecolorado/2026/01/03/ouray-faces-economic-hit-thanks-to-mother-nature/

C Hwrote:

Interesting article on struggles in Ouray. Basically it's the whole state

https://www.denvergazette.com/outtherecolorado/2026/01/03/ouray-faces-economic-hit-thanks-to-mother-nature/

“….thanks to climate change”. Fixed the title 

I love (being incredibly sarcastic) how the article focuses solely on the economic impact of the ice park not being open…..instead of the horrific implications of this horrific winter….you can’t own a business in Ouray if your building burns down (along with the rest of the town) because it didn’t snow all winter and the entire state is a tinderbox….typical horse shit reporting 

Luigi Mwrote:

“….thanks to climate change”. Fixed the title 

I love (being incredibly sarcastic) how the article focuses solely on the economic impact of the ice park not being open…..instead of the horrific implications of this horrific winter….you can’t own a business in Ouray if it burns down because it didn’t snow all winter and the entire state is a tinderbox….typical horse shit reporting 

I went up to 10 Mile last Tuesday.  I couldn't believe how little snow there was.  I turned to my partner during the drive and said,  "If it doesn't change soon we are going to have the worst fire season ever. "

In a normal winter,  I wouldn't go near 10 Mile after Thanksgiving because of the avy danger.  This year not so much. However even then the ice isn't great.  

Worst fire season ever indeed. it’s almost certainly gonna be another insanely hot and dry summer.

Maybe entire cities need to start burning to the ground before our so called leaders start taking this seriously. Maybe

they probably won’t though

Notchtop zone, RMNP.  

What are things looking like near silverton? 

Things were looking pretty good as of Sunday, dunno how Whorehouse has recovered but routes on the west side seem to be doing better and the Hoser's main pillar was fat.

Thank you for that, any chance you have been into mineral area?