Home board recommendations

I’m planning on building a homeboard, I have room for a board that’s 7 feet across and I have ceilings that are 9’3. Planning on building either a 30 or 35 degree overhanging wall and throwing on as many wooden holds as possible. I want something that’s easy enough to climb now (currently plateaued at v5 indoors and around v2+ outdoors) as well as longevity for the future as I progress. I’m hoping to mount it to the walls as a more permanent structure but may have to resort to freestanding. Wondering what people’s thoughts are and if this is to small of a space. Thanks! 

If you're not going to make it adjustable, make it steeper than you think.  

One of my first walls was even smaller than your dimensions but still enough to get a workout so I think you're good  

Yeah, go with a 40 unless that makes falling off dangerous.

Limpingcrab DJwrote:

If you're not going to make it adjustable, make it steeper than you think.  

One of my first walls was even smaller than your dimensions but still enough to get a workout so I think you're good  

Ok cool thanks! Just wondering- how steep was yours? 

Sam Beeduhlwrote:

Yeah, go with a 40 unless that makes falling off dangerous.

Thanks for your response! I’m an intermediate level climber and I’d have fairly new climbers on the board as well. Would you still go 40? Or would you bump it down to 35? I quess I could just put a bunch of jugs and really positive edges on and then swap them out as I progress??

A 40 degree wall would give you about another 17 inches of wall.  Enough possibly for another move.

Talmage Brysonwrote:

Thanks for your response! I’m an intermediate level climber and I’d have fairly new climbers on the board as well. Would you still go 40? Or would you bump it down to 35? I quess I could just put a bunch of jugs and really positive edges on and then swap them out as I progress??

40-45 is the recommended angle from many sources, plus the extra length you get out of it. Start with jug circuits and just do that for a couple months. V4 was a significant project outdoors for me when I started climbing on a friend's 40 deg wall. Mix in smaller holds as you get stronger. Remember that board climbing is not outdoor climbing. If you want to climb different angles or features like aretes and corners, then you need to go practice on those styles. But 40 deg will get you very strong, and once you're strong you can simulate a lot of movement which if you can do on 40 will be no problem with your feet under you, assuming you progress your footwork as well. While it's tempting to build something you know you can do, if you really want to progress, then you need to build something to push yourself.

45. Jugs and big incuts.  As you progress, replace with flatter, worse holds.  You'll have more climbing area.  You'll get stronger.

Sam Beeduhlwrote:

40-45 is the recommended angle from many sources, plus the extra length you get out of it. Start with jug circuits and just do that for a couple months. V4 was a significant project outdoors for me when I started climbing on a friend's 40 deg wall. Mix in smaller holds as you get stronger. Remember that board climbing is not outdoor climbing. If you want to climb different angles or features like aretes and corners, then you need to go practice on those styles. But 40 deg will get you very strong, and once you're strong you can simulate a lot of movement which if you can do on 40 will be no problem with your feet under you, assuming you progress your footwork as well. While it's tempting to build something you know you can do, if you really want to progress, then you need to build something to push yourself.

I've seen it recommended not to think of your board climbing as regular climbing, but more as a gym workout. The point is not getting to the top, but getting exercise in a really fun way. 

Hey dude. I built a home wall in my garage at 35° and I've been setting stuff on it for a couple years now. The biggest thing is what are you trying to accomplish in your training? Power? Endurance? Finger strength? Depending on your answer is how steep you should make it. I primarily sport climb and train endurance and I'd say 35 was too steep but I compensate with more jugs on it. 

Also you should check with climbing gyms to see if they sell old holds. I bought a good amount by the pound and i still use most of them