New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #40

rgold wrote:

Note: its a novel, not a historical piece.

En septembre 1987, Médusant, Manuel et Claire foulent pour la première fois le sol américain dans le nord de l'Etat de New York pour tenter l'ascension de certaines voies mythiques de falaises baptisées Shawangunks, les Gunks pour les initiés. Au centre de ce trio, Claire, libre et indépendante, vit ses aventures amoureuses en dictant ses règles, imposant des remises en question à ses compagnons.       

....

Années 1980, époque de l'insouciance et de l'escalade libre. Méduz, Manuel et Claire, bien décidés à vivre leur passion au coeur des Appalaches, traversent l'Atlantique pour se mesurer aux falaises mythiques des Gunks. Traceront-ils leur voie en solo ou en trio ?                             

A longer review at https://www.en-attendant-nadeau.fr/2025/01/30/grimper-comme-des-punks-gunks/

The author has translated a lot of American work into French (Richard Brautigan, Thomas Pynchon, Allen Ginsberg, Patti Smith, Leonard Cohen, Quentin Tarantino).

Novel? Sounds like a factual account of a typical Gunks weekend!!!!

Sorry. I took the shots with my phone and can't figure out how to rotate them.  Cool French climbing guide that Isa had. This is where we discovered Seneca.pretty cool tghat they visited Crow Hill and ragged Mtn as well as the obvious places out west.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Sorry. I took the shots with my phone and can't figure out how to rotate them.  Cool French climbing guide that Isa had. This is where we discovered Seneca.pretty cool tghat they visited Crow Hill and ragged Mtn as well as the obvious places out west.

Very good book. The author, Romain Vogler, was a strong Swiss ( I believe)  climber who spent some time based here in the Amherst area in either the late 70s/early 80s ( before my time here) and did some significant climbs locally as well--even some of our small local areas get a passing mention in the book. Sadly he died in a climbing accident in the Alps just a few years after that book was published.

Edit to add: Didn't recall that, Ignatius ( and Duncan!!!)--very impressive time, especially for 1984!!!!

Alan Rubin wrote:

Very good book. The author, Romain Vogler, was a strong Swiss ( I believe)  climber who spent some time based here in the Amherst area in either the late 70s/early 80s ( before my time here) and did some significant climbs locally as well. Sadly he died in a climbing accident in the Alps just a few years after that book was published.

Together with Duncan of this parish he set a Nose speed record of 9 hours 30 in 1984.

Edit: Absolutely, Alan; not least because they had never climbed together before! 

https://factortwo.co.uk/episodes/Nine_and_a_Half_Hours

I think Isa knew those guys and had this book for her Yosemite trip in the 80s. I knew of Seneca but it was not on my radar but Isa produced this book and said let's check this place out in the spring of 99. We have been there about a dozen times now. 

Bob Gaines wrote:

Merry Christmas!

Captured this image on Kodachrome back in the 90’s. Scanned it and brought it to digital life.

Question has that been skied?

Jack Carbon wrote:

Question has that been skied?

It gets really steep at the bottom 😉

Merry post-Christmas! And Boxing Day…

Hit my old gym today… met old friends.

It was -12f this morning and Red Bessie went on strike. Been quite A few years sice I had to prime her with anything other than Gas but this morning I had to resort to the ether. She made short work of yesterdays snow.

  Hit Mt wishIcouldtellya with my 78yr old  and 26 yr young friends today. Isa Is still playing Grandma.. 

Finally I got to fire up the sauna. It's been against Doctors orders for the last few weeks.

It was 4f when I started to chop the hole. By the time I was through with 4 rounds it was 0f...  hopefully this will cure all my ailments ;) 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

It was -12f this morning and Red Bessie went on strike. Been quite A few years sice I had to prime her with anything other than Gas but this morning I had to resort to the ether. She made short work of yesterdays snow.

  Hit Mt wishIcouldtellya with my 78yr old  and 26 yr young friends today. Isa Is still playing Grandma.. 

 

Finally I got to fire up the sauna. It's been against Doctors orders for the last few weeks.

It was 4f when I started to chop the hole. By the time I was through with 4 rounds it was 0f...  hopefully this will cure all my ailments ;) 

Jumping in that hole, Nick, would definitely 'cure' all my ailments---permanently!!!! I can do the hot shower to comfortable chair thing well, though!!!

Cool stuff, Nick. Literally!   

My cousin who married a Norse told me the correct way to pronounce Sauna is Sa-oona. Never knew that.

I cleaned most of the chunks out before going in. You don't have to jump. There's a nice ladder to climb down.. 

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

I cleaned most of the chunks out before going in. You don't have to jump. There's a nice ladder to climb down.. 

No chance. I'm pretty sure that water that cold would put me straight out of any misery that had happened into my life.

Best to you though. It seems to be good for you and, dare I say, maybe you even enjoy(!!) it?

It's the best feeling. Like smooth velvet.. Usually sleep really well after.

rgold wrote:

Note: its a novel, not a historical piece.

In September 1987, Médusant, Manuel, and Claire set foot on American soil for the first time in upstate New York to attempt the ascent of some legendary cliff routes known as the Shawangunks, or the Gunks to those in the know. At the center of this trio, Claire, free-spirited and independent, lived her romantic adventures by dictating her own rules, forcing her companions to question their own assumptions.       

...

The 1980s, an era of carefree abandon and free climbing. Méduz, Manuel, and Claire, determined to live their passion in the heart of the Appalachians, cross the Atlantic to test themselves against the legendary cliffs of the Gunks. Will they forge their own path solo or as a trio?                             

A longer review at https://www.en-attendant-nadeau.fr/2025/01/30/grimper-comme-des-punks-gunks/

The author has translated a lot of American work into French (Richard Brautigan, Thomas Pynchon, Allen Ginsberg, Patti Smith, Leonard Cohen, Quentin Tarantino).

Echoing that David Roberts piece in Ascent a good while back, a novella that, for the umpteenth time, emphasized the basic incompatibility of fiction and a climbing setting. Maybe this will turn out better but I doubt it.

Nick Goldsmith wrote:

It's the best feeling. Like smooth velvet.. Usually sleep really well after.

Unless the water is at least 82 degrees I am not going into it.

Kevinmurray wrote:

Unless the water is at least 82 degrees I am not going into it.

Two rules for me...

1) under 102° f,  there better be waves...

2) no waves, water must be 102 or above...

Nice.. Its scary dry at the lake . really only about 3 climbs actually in. There should be dozens... 

The climbs that are in are funky with lots of powder snow covered rock in between the steeps... 

Reed follows P1

the view from the belay

P2 was actually really fun and a bit technicle.. 

end of the day. The Willoughby Gap

Got some nice snow here overnight.
I went snowshoeing, but most of the action seemed to be cross country skiing.

dragons wrote:

Got some nice snow here overnight.
I went snowshoeing, but most of the action seemed to be cross country skiing.

I imagine the skiing was as good as it gets there,