New Petzl Cams and Spirit Wiregates

Possibly dumb question, but how do we know this cam / carabiner is made by Petzl? Maybe my eyes aren't great but I couldn't make out the logo anywhere.

jordandwrote:

Possibly dumb question, 

Not dumb at all.  1. The gentleman in the video is a Petzl sponsored athlete.  2. There has been rumors of Petzl cams for the last ~12 months or so. 3. Not confirmed if that is or is not a Petzl carabiner...it could be a different brand altogether.....

new ange is comming… 

Toni Ltgrwrote:

new ange is comming… 

Are my eyes playing tricks on me?  The gate opening, even assuming the gate pivots like 90*, looks so small.  Must be the photo playing tricks, eh? 

Looks like you could barely get a burly 11.0mm rope in there.

Andy Shoemakerwrote:

Are my eyes playing tricks on me?  The gate opening, even assuming the gate pivots like 90*, looks so small.  Must be the photo playing tricks, eh? 

Looks like you could barely get a burly 11.0mm rope in there.

I think the gate opening looks quite big, tiny basket though, no room for hitches. 

Andy Shoemakerwrote:

Are my eyes playing tricks on me?  The gate opening, even assuming the gate pivots like 90*, looks so small.  Must be the photo playing tricks, eh? 

Looks like you could barely get a burly 11.0mm rope in there.

My understanding is that it has been re-engineered and there’s going to be one size which will fall somewhere in between the previous two sizes. And in racking colors 

bearded samwrote:

My understanding is that it has been re-engineered and there’s going to be one size which will fall somewhere in between the previous two sizes. And in racking colors

Don't tempt me with a good time. To be fair, I do love the new spirit bent gate (solid) for rackers, but I use the large blue and grey Ange L for the 3 and 4 sizes... have always lusted over the idea of a full rainbow of Ange

Big question: will the new cams be better than Totems?

Bruno Schullwrote:

Big question: will the new cams be better than Totems?

Yeah basically. If nobody else makes a cam that’s worthy in a piton scar, who cares/why bother. 

As has been disucssed in another thread about these units, the main thing they are bringing to the table is a replacable stem, as illlustrated below from their information provided to the US patents office. Unscrew the old one and put in a new one.
I have not had time to read the entire patent but froma quick grazing there is nothing to show direct loading like a totem. =(
Cest la vie, still a welcome development to remedy the caveat of ultralight options of today being destined for the bin just beause time has passed. I love gear that is repairable, or refreshable to keep on working.

Replaceable stem seems like a total gimmick that's just going to add weight and cost without providing any real value. The dyneema in the stem is encased in plastic, so it's already protected from UV and abrasion, which are the real killers of soft goods.

Ultralight C4s have been on the market for over a decade now -- has there ever been a recorded incident where the dyneema stem on an UL C4 actually broke in a fall?

A Zwrote:

Ultralight C4s have been on the market for over a decade now -- has there ever been a recorded incident where the dyneema stem on an UL C4 actually broke in a fall?

Only in HowNot2's lab, haha.

A Zwrote:

Replaceable stem seems like a total gimmick that's just going to add weight and cost without providing any real value. The dyneema in the stem is encased in plastic, so it's already protected from UV and abrasion, which are the real killers of soft goods.

Ultralight C4s have been on the market for over a decade now -- has there ever been a recorded incident where the dyneema stem on an UL C4 actually broke in a fall?

Yes and.....Unlike the steel in older units that has an almost indefinite service life, as the decades of older steel stemed cams that still live a functional life validate, we may find dyneema does indeed have a end of service life in camming units as they are made today....you also have to take into acount people that don't store their gear "properly".
Will it end up UL units have a 30 year life span? Maybe. But we can't rely on information that takes time to be garnered. Bottom line dyneema is a expendable based on service life in almost every industry that uses it for a reason. There are other reasons to want to replace components, like if you absolutely fuck the stem up, or something along those lines, in a fall. Maybe they'll sell just the head of the cam so you can replace just that.
I am not saying its some groundbreaking tech or something, but it is an innovation that has tangible benefits. I'm real curious on the price tag knowing what petzl tax look like on their other offerings...

Is the head width smaller?