Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Best Arete Climbs at Smith?
|
There seem to be many aretes at smith but I have not climbed many of them. Curious if people have any favorites. Specifically any recommendations for arete climbs in the 5.10-5.12 range? |
|
The obvious ones are: 5.10d Moons of Pluto 5.12a Spank the Monkey (short) 5.12b Latest Rage 5.12c Chain Reaction 5.12c Last Waltz 5.12c Da Kine Corner 5.12d Split Image 5.12d (PG13) Close Shave 5.13a/b Backbone 5.13d Spank the Monkey (full) |
|
Not an expert, but I do feel like a lot of the pure aretes go at stiffer grades (12- and up). Big plus one for Moons of Pluto, though, it is an amazing climb in a great spot. Double Trouble, 10-, could make the list. Wedding Day, 10-, isn't pure arete but has some arete moves Taiwan On, 10+, is pretty fun |
|
Double Trouble 5.10b Nightingale's on Vacation 5.10b (has a small section of arete movement that is nice) + Via Dolorosa/Holy Road 5.11 as 2nd pitch arete Taiwan On 5.10c + optional link into Headless Horseman 5.10d, has a small section of arete too (cool variation staying on the left of the arete instead of going right into the corner, goes around 11a) Moons of Pluto 5.10d Kevin's Arete 5.11c (2nd pitch) Eye of the Beholder 5.11c (2nd pitch 5.10 arete) The Blade 5.12a (best accessed via Slit Your Wrist 5.13b arete, otherwise it's an awkward belay situation) Spank the Monkey first pitch 5.12a Howl 5.12a on Big Ben in the Monument Area Red Satin 5.12a on the Kangaroo Da Kine Corner 5.12c Split Image 5.12d The Big Four Dihedrals aretes: Vision 5.12b Chain Reaction 5.12c Last Waltz 5.12c++ Latest Rage 5.12b+ The Lower (and Upper) Gorge have many arete-type compression climbs on the columns' "outies". Too many good choices to list, mostly 5.12. |
Clint Cumminswrote: Sadly Close Shave doesn’t actually involve very much arete climbing. It’s basically two sections of face climbing that cross an arete briefly. Split Image, while a beautiful route and classic arete climb, is a bit of a headpoint for a sport climb and quite hard for the given grade, so maybe not realistically a 12. +1 for the gorge. |
|
10d Reason To Be, short, stout and classic https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105806903/reason-to-be Well, this says 11a, it was 10d when i did it |
|
No love for butter knife (10c)? |
|
I've always enjoyed a romp up Sky Ridge just for the position. However, it's only 5.8 so you'll have to do it one-handed to meet your 5.10 minimum. |
|
Can South Park make the cut as a arete? |
