Let's Talk Traverses

So, because god blesses those of us that enjoy fun, many rock features don't form necessarily along the Y-axis. Dikes, crack systems, and other features often move diagonally or fully laterally along a boulder or formation - meaning that, if you want to climb the feature, you've often got to open up those hips and look down at your feet for once.

While I've always loved traverses, I've seen a lot of comments that look like "Great line, for a traverse" or "Even though it's a traverse, it's a classic". So I figured I'm probably in the minority here, meaning my opinion is factually incorrect. So, how are we feeling about traverses? What makes a traverse great (aka, "worth doing" - it's a traverse after all) and what continues to add to their bad name? Are roped traverses more worth doing than boulders, or is the opposite true and they're destined to fall into obscurity for all time? 

Only thing that comes to mind for me is the potential for hitting a wall or feature via pendulum on lead or follow, or a traversing route that never really gets you any farther from the ground and you are constantly risking a deck… which really sucks when you eventually f around and find out. Modern bolting makes things like that a non issue, if it’s lacking gear, you’re adding a lot of risk assessment to the climbing..

A counter argument and example to the traverse + pendulum + decking scaries… are traversing routes that are totally safe. Ex; there’s a mega classic route up here in the Adirondacks that has a respectably large unprotected/ hard to protect traverse that people literally climb just to experience the safest most exciting pendulum whipper imaginable. It’s definitely a classic, and one of the best routes in the region that is more than worth doing. The movement is sequential and incredibly pumpy after having done 50 ft of crack climbing already, and the whip is unbelievable; falling down and right 30+ feet every-time…

I guess if the rock and moves are cool traverses can be fun, although I do generally prefer climbing along the Y axis more.

Ryan Enrightwrote:

Only thing that comes to mind for me is the potential for hitting a wall or feature via pendulum on lead or follow, or a traversing route that never really gets you any farther from the ground and you are constantly risking a deck… which really sucks when you eventually f around and find out. Modern bolting makes things like that a non issue, if it’s lacking gear, you’re adding a lot of risk assessment to the climbing..

A counter argument and example to the traverse + pendulum + decking scaries… are traversing routes that are totally safe. Ex; there’s a mega classic route up here in the Adirondacks that has a respectably large unprotected/ hard to protect traverse that people literally climb just to experience the safest most exciting pendulum whipper imaginable. It’s definitely a classic, and one of the best routes in the region that is more than worth doing. The movement is sequential and incredibly pumpy after having done 50 ft of crack climbing already, and the whip is unbelievable; falling down and right 30+ feet every-time…

What route?

I actually really love a crack that leans. It makes for pretty interesting moves because typically you have to have some limbs in and some limbs out

The Austin area has many traverses because most walls are sub 35 feet height and traverses are the only way to get a longer route.  Personally, I hate climbing them and I hate belaying people on them.  A few inches of unnoticeable slack drooping down between each QuickDraw adds up to potential decking when the climber is only 10 feet off the ground on a 75 foot long traverse (there’s a video this week of Pete Whittaker decking from this on a bridge traverse)   If you have enough height to keep it safe then traverses may be more enjoyable but I’d rather do boulder traverses than roped.

Traverses are pretty popular in the UK. Lots of mega classics. Dream of White Horses, Heart Of Darkness, Riders In The Storm, Spaced Out Rockers On The Road To Oblivion. Interestingly all those that immediately came to mind are on sea cliffs.

Matthes Crest and Wolf's Head

Gotta have Exposure, Long, Unique aspects, and great for IG

Do traverses have a bad rap? I love a good traversing pitch.

On the Lamb comes to mind - gotta be one of if not the coolest 5.9’s in Tuolumne. That roof traverse of Fiddler on the Roof in Vegas is pretty sweet. Also that traverse on Gift of the Wind Gods I remember being pretty damn fun. Same with the traversing pitch of Idiot Wind in Lumpy. Gotta be one of the coolest pitches on Sundance! The 12th of Never up in The Voo is pretty rad though definitely not on any sort of well-traveled list. I hear Silver Salute is one of the raddest face pitches around as well and it’s pretty much straight right, and even down a bit.

Oh man The Womb Fight in The Black! Although if I’m being honest that one was a bit of a let down. But still. Horizontal belly crawling two thousand feet up Chasm View. Pretty rad.

Maybe I’m just weird too. I do like a good girdle though. I’m sure there’s a bunch not popping into my head right now as well.

Edit: also just thought of pinky tower out in Moab where you basically climb in a circle around the tower in a single pitch. Does that count? Either way super fun too. 

I didn’t know traverses have a bad reputation… maybe it’s just the follower that doesn’t like them… Personally I think there’s nothing better then Climbing the natural line or specific feature. 

One time I followed along an entire 70m stretch of Echo rock in JT from left to right clipping bolts of various routes and it was thoroughly cool and pucker able. Traverse are great when you both wanna feel the fun of leading. 

I feel that I usually enjoy routes or problems with traversing sections, but not so much when the whole pitch or problem is a traverse

Run out 5.7 traverse is an alpine right of passage! Wouldn't be the same without em. Somehow I seem to always get those leads and have come to enjoy them in all their headiness. Aquired taste perhaps

Climb Onwrote:

What route?

That sounds like It's only entertainment, at Spider's Web

Yeah, On the Lamb!

Also Gram Traverse, and,  the complete Matthes Crest traverse. 

The Grand Traverse on El Cap.

The High Sierra has traverses big and small from north to south throughout the range, it's particularly well suited to them. 

A notorious quote from back in the day (sorry, I can't run down the specifics - need Super Topo folks) regarding a girdle traverse at Lovers Leap: "A fall from any point would paint a bright red smile across the face of the rock".

From a fun and aesthetic perspective, traverses are great. They have a unique character with different challenges and rewards. Best when they follow a feature like a dike which is inspiring, rather than a random contrived horizontal line.

Traversing climbing or wandering routes are plenty fun, the un-fun part is the potential of your rope running across sharp features on falls, bulges in less than vertical terrain or ledges in a more vertical setting. Even with well placed gear after a crux and before a traverse will allow movement of the rope across an edge if your second is having a hard time with the crux. If the gear is bad or non existent a fall could mean the rope would cut for the leader or follower. I'm still going to climb wandering and traversing trad, but I do understand why certain routes are unappealing to others.

If there is a crux before a traverse, make sure that piece after the crux is as close to overhead as possible, understand the direction it will be pulled, don't extend it and try to have a second piece after it. If your second needs a haul past the crux, lower the brake strand to them and let them assist in a self lift to take weight off the piece after the crux. and as always, don't fall.

I love a low traverse boulder, it's nice to get lots of moves in but without the anxiety of falling large distances or needing a belay. I agree this is an unpopular opinion.

I like (hard) traversing lines less on a rope, mostly because it often makes logistics like cleaning on lower more annoying and pendulum falls are less comfy. I would still never shy away from a traverse unless the falls were dangerous.

My theory is that traverse boulders were more popular in the pre gym era because they were seen as a way to build fitness without access to sport climbing. FWIW I enjoy a traverse boulder when it's not contrived.

Andrew Childwrote:

My theory is that traverse boulders were more popular in the pre gym era because they were seen as a way to build fitness without access to sport climbing. FWIW I enjoy a traverse boulder when it's not contrived.

Your theory is correct. At least for habitues of Indian Rock, Berkeley CA, circa 1970's/early 80's. The Ivy Wall traverse,  the "across the street" traverse,  and the complete Indian Rock Traverse. Those were the main training traverses. Many other boulder problem traverses exist.