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Easiest .12 in Eldo?

Original Post
Caleb · · Ward, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 275

I’ve got a tall list of twelves to send in the next 10 months including several Eldo classics.  But it would be nice to start at the bottom.  So what do you think are the easiest 12’s in Eldo?  Spray on.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

I still think of Rough Roof after the footage from Front Range Freaks and get chills, so... not that route.  

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

apple strudel.

Caleb · · Ward, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 275
slimwrote:

apple strudel.

Because it’s bolted or just easier?

Adam Brink · · trying to get to Sardinia · Joined Mar 2001 · Points: 601

2nd vote for Apple Strudel, since it is easier than any of the 11d's in Eldo. 

Charles Vernon · · Colorado megalopolis · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 2,754

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105753115/ignition 

Unfortunately, Steve downrated it to 11d   I guess it's up to you whether to take MP or the guidebook. Thankfully, I sent it back when the Rossiter guide was still the supreme law.

ETA: more importantly, it's an awesome route!

Sam Chalkley · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 316

The easiest 12 in Eldo is the last one you've rehearsed on TR   

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,023

Sequential is pretty reasonable for the grade if you're into steep climbing. Mostly good holds until the crux when the good holds disappear for a few moves.

Adam Brink · · trying to get to Sardinia · Joined Mar 2001 · Points: 601
Sam Chalkleywrote:

The easiest 12 in Eldo is the last one you've rehearsed on TR   

Sam is correct. He is a Jedi of the Eldo way. They are all hard on the onsight and piss on redpoint.

Rob Kepley · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,010

I second the suggestion of sequential.

Matt Toensing · · Pagosa Springs · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 715

If you’re tall, warp drive overload on the west ridge is soft. Easy to rehearse on TR and 2 bolts make it very reasonable.

Another vote for apple strudel. Ignition and heart of gold are both great bolted 12s that should be on your list. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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