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Connect adjust Blue Ice Runner Re-Rope
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Looking into re-roping my connect adjust with a 110mm blue ice runner. For a long time I’ve wanted a connect adjust that has a carabiner on the harness end of the rope allowing quick connection and disconnection of the system from my belay points, without a huge loop sitting there. The blue ice runner seems like the good solution to this as long as the other end is blocked properly. Would also likely be way easier to adjust. Anyone have thoughts or experience doing so? Ps I’m a gear nerd so half the reason for this is because I think it’s neat as well. |
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Honestly, I played around a bunch with the OG adjust to solve what you are talking about. The new model with the Dyneema loop is super low profile. Would highly recommend. Plus the updated geometry allows release under load possible and easy. |
Mike Cwrote: I do like the look of the new one, might have to check it out. I haven’t had the chance to play with it yet. By any chance do you have one of your old ones you’d want to part with? 👀 |
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My buddy Nathan has done this. https://www.instagram.com/reel/DOLmQ67jqCL/?igsh=MWw2cHI1ZDU4YjAzeQ== He seems to like it so far! |
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I talked to a guy on Instagram who did it and said he got no creep, better than my pur line or my previous 6.8mm dynamic rope. It'll be very carabiner dependant, stick with carabiners with a very square stock, the petzl smd is made for it and the edelrid pur slider is an even easier alternative, both work well with smaller rope sizes. Hey it was the guy linked above |
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I like the idea. However: Why the big loop on the harness side? Is there any reason not to just girth hitch? And why the carabiner at the end? I would just tie a knot ? |
The Flying Dutchmanwrote: Bowline allows for a place to put the rappel device with an extension. I think a knot might be small enough to pass though the connect adjust; it also makes a nice grab point. Do whatever you want! We're already going against manufacturer recommendations, so you're on your own when it comes to those jobs it choices. As long as you can justify it to yourself and your partners then who cares? Just test it on the ground first! |
that guy named sebwrote: Good to note that, currently I’ve got an SMD in there, looking to possibly move to an edelrid pur slider |
Adam Flemingwrote: This, plus I do both sport climbing and am learning trad climbing. As silly as it is I’ve always been annoyed girth hitching stuff, always thought it would be awesome being able to clip into and unclip from my connect adjust. My goal is one end is a locker, other end is a wire gate, and the whole thing can be coiled up similarly to a cordolette on your harness. Like I mentioned earlier half of the reason for this is because I like tinkering. |
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I wanted to see if any of you have really tested this system out? I attempted the same with a CAMP Lift and found that about 1 in 5 times I would load the device the runner would squish to the side and slip to the end. I was able to get it to fail several times and it started to glaze the runnner. I personally found it rather sketchy. This was with full body weight hangs on the device. Have any of you who are using this mod done much body weight hanging? Given that the Lift is a more aggressive clamp I’m surprised if the Connect doesn’t have the same failure mode. |
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I've been using this setup with a connect adjust and it has never slipped. The only thing I don't like about it is you have to take off the connect to undo the girth hitch to remove it from your harness. It's annoying to do every time I switch between multi pitch and single pitch. Maybe I will connect it with a small locker. It's also a little too short for me even with the longest runner they make. My arms are long and I like to have full extension. |
Adam Flemingwrote: I tried it but really shortens your reach, I can't even wrap it around my waist to store it like normal. If they added like 8-12 or so inches it would be great to me. For now, I'm playing with 8.2 starling and alpine butterfly extension.. |
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Honestly, I spent a ton of time doing a re-rope on my OG Connect Adjust. Picked up the new 2025 version and it does everything I need including release under load. I gave away my old adjust(s) and exclusively use the new version. They really nailed the design in my opinion. |
Mike Cwrote: New one is what I got, I still don't like attaching to the belay loop for TRS stuff. Clutters the belay loop and transitions are also harder when the loop is tensioned. Also can't clove for rappel extension when under tension and too short for alpine butterfly. Other than that it's great though. I was able to slip the petzl rope out without cutting it in case I want to go back for some reason. Might just go back to a simple sling with bowline though lol. |
Gene Bordsonwrote: Two thoughts: 1) Add a Petzl Ring Open next to your belay loop for a second hard point. I prefer the belay loop but can understand why you wouldn’t. 2) Interlace a 25cm (very short!) dyneema runner into the larks foot with the connect adjust. Both slings get larks footed to the hard point and dressed very neatly on top of each other. This is a great rappel extension as long as you use a relatively short (250mm) prussik (like a Sterling 10.5” HollowBlock). Loosely tie the free end of the sling around the base of the Connect Adjust to keep it tucked out of the way when not in use. I have played with a bunch of rappel extension ideas and this has worked really well for me. |
Mike Cwrote: Can you post a picture of this setup with the free end tied up? |
Mike Cwrote: 1. I'm not super into the open ring unless it's redundant. As an arborist I've kept track of some failures in similar harness components from petzl and it kind of turned me off a bit. I could probably just splice a ring on there but idk, replacing the rope entirely works well, is cheap, simple, and easy to inspect and replace. 2. This one's interesting, I wouldn't want to girth hitch a sling to the hard points mostly because of pinching them together causing discomfort after loading (also some added abrasion). But I guess you could basket a sling to the hard points and then girth hitch the two ends with the connect adjust end. Something like this pic, I could see that working albeit a little long.  |
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My apologies for non-specific terminology. I meant girth hitched both the extension runner and the connect adjust to the belay loop or Ring Open. I would not want to girth hitch to the harness hard points due to the constriction like you mentioned. I also would not consider girth hitching to a basket hitch due to concerns of dyneema slings cutting each other during a fall (a real concern). I’ve attached a photo of my setup. Sounds like you could benefit a candidate for a harness with two belay loops for TRS. I’d be interested in elaboration your comment about the Ring Open. I don’t personally use one but did pick one up when I was playing with tethers. Seemed pretty bomber so curious what failures exist. Photos below. When not in use, wrap twice around the stitched section of the Adjust and tuck under itself. Stows very compactly and doesn’t get in the way even when at the gym between outdoor sessions.   |
Tyler Moodywrote: Stowed between uses. Because it is a separate loop from the connect adjust, you can set up an extended rappel even if you’re in a free hanging belay with your tether (unlike a clove hitch device onto the tether strand). Takes maybe 30 seconds to stow it like this when you’re done with rappelling.   One caveat I did mention above. I personally prefer to keep rappel extensions no longer than absolutely necessary to prevent the 3rd hand from touching the belay device (plus a reasonable safety factor). This has real safety benefits for being able to properly load check your rappel setups before removing the tether which can become impossible in many real world scenarios if the extension is too long. If you use a longer prussik (19” is another common length for sewn prussik) or a large locking carabiner for the 3rd hand (HMS) then a 25 or 30cm extension may not be long enough to provide sufficient gap between the belay device and the 3rd hand which can render the 3rd hand inoperable. Do your own tests on combinations of gear to ensure the spacing works well between all your kit. |
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Got it thanks, that's actually pretty slick but yeah it would really bother me unless I had a second dedicated belay loop. Regarding slings cutting each other yeah that's a concern, testing I saw for dyneema slings girthed to each other was about 11 kn.. with one basketed giving more surface area and the other girthed as if on a belay loop I think it would probably get noticeably more strength. Either way, not stoked on the configuration and would probably use a nylon sling to feel a little more comfortable. Open rings, I recall some incidents on the Sequoia harnesses where the little bolts were breaking. Not a ring but similar mechanism for the "bridge". If I recall correctly, it was speculated that if you torqued the bolt with wet Loctite on the threads, the lubrication could allow for over torquing and random failure. I don't want to carry around a tiny Allen key or have to be inspecting it. I've had the bolts on the open ring come loose over time. Regarding third hand I agree and like to keep it short and tight. |
Rew Exowrote: Why not keep a loop in the end permanently, then just open the loop and girth hitch it to your harness? Never have to take the connect off. Hopefully that makes sense. I wonder what the long term wear and tear would be like on the runner at the belay loop. I guess one could always flip the sling when wear gets noticeable. |
