New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #39

Lori Milaswrote:

...Alex has a podcast that I think is the best there is in the climbing world. He doesn’t self promote at all. He does great interviews with exceptional Climbers. My favorite might have been with Peter Croft. Recently, he did a lengthy podcast on John Bachar with some newly discovered recordings. 

Enjoyed this too, but he got several things wrong about John and the climbing scene back in the 1980s.

given how hard I have taken numerous deaths here in Joshua Tree – – Tina, free Solo Guy, Tony Sartin— and none of these were good friends,— and that’s not to mention the frequent serious injuries and disabilities from local Climbers  

Tony did not die in a climbing related accident.

Randywrote:

Enjoyed this too, but he got several things wrong about John and the climbing scene back in the 1980s.

Tony did not die in a climbing related accident.

Thanks, Kris!

From: https://www.climbing.com/people/a-climber-we-lost-tony-sartin/

Sartin passed away suddenly while out cragging, after an unclear medical emergency, on September 4, at the age of 57. His climbing partner described what occurred as similar to a seizure, Gaines said, but autopsy results were inconclusive.

Yes, I thought about that after I posted it. I did not know Tony Sartin, but only as a beloved member of this community. My sentiment was really just that I miss so many of these great climbers, even the ones I did not know.  It’s a shock to hear of anyone’s sudden passing.

I was still pretty new when Brad Gobright died, and he did not die here in Joshua Tree and yet for a month or two things were pretty somber.  I just remember an unusual quiet. 

Lori Milaswrote:

Well said, Li Hu. I really do struggle with this both as a climber and as a mom and friend. Someone dug up an old video of John Bachar yesterday and posted it. Should we be supporting this? I sure didn’t refuse to watch it, even though the guy is dead.

A young climber died here a few years ago free soloing Illusion dweller.  He waited to go up until everyone was gone at the end of the day. Frankly, I was pissed, the smashed bushes and chalk were there every day I walked by and my heart just sank every time I saw it.Was that really necessary?

Here’s the thing about Alex Honnold… I really like him. I feel like I’ve gotten to know him and his family by extension over the years. Alex has a podcast that I think is the best there is in the climbing world. He doesn’t self promote at all. He does great interviews with exceptional Climbers. My favorite might have been with Peter Croft. Recently, he did a lengthy podcast on John Bachar with some newly discovered recordings. He’s brought a lot of Yosemite history alive. Did a great interview with Janja.  Totally low-key and if anything highlighting how much he is not the greatest climber and how much the sport has passed him by.

given how hard I have taken numerous deaths here in Joshua Tree – – Tina, free Solo Guy, Tony Sartin— and none of these were good friends,— and that’s not to mention the frequent serious injuries and disabilities from local Climbers – – I don’t want the pain of not hearing Alex‘s voice again on his podcast, seeing happy pictures of family outings.

So I guess as Tony has frequently mentioned “there’s always bowling“. Maybe I’m more of a bowling type.

Yeah, one of the people I worked with just lost his wife coming down after a summit of K2. Freak accident killed instantly by a rock to the head.

This sport is dangerous enough without adding anything extra like soloing when you don’t have to.

My climbing partner and I are coming out to JTree this Saturday. I’ll let you know where we are planning to be and when by PM.

John Gillwrote:

Here Rich (seated) and I contemplate our next adventure ca 1886. We both enjoyed climbing the Needles in our afterlives, and I think my friend may have a particular one in mind, that for some reason he feels might help advance our sport. I may let him do it by himself. He is quite an athlete.

The climber Rich impersonates is important in the history of the sport. Who is he and what kind of needle did he climb?

Obviously some of you don't really understand climbing..  climbing without a rope is pure movement..  

John Gillwrote:

The climber Rich impersonates is important in the history of the sport. Who is he and what kind of needle did he climb?

Haskett-Smith? If so, Napes.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Obviously some of you don't really understand climbing..  climbing without a rope is pure movement..  

Same with bouldering

Mark E Dixonwrote:

Same with bouldering

And occasional accidents don't put you 6ft under.  I understand. 

tbh, bouldering is mostly pure falling

M Mwrote:

And occasional accidents don't put you 6ft under.  I understand. 

My limited experience has seen enough roped climbers end up 6ft under...

I was never a big free solo climber, but from what little I did I understand the attraction.  I once did the 800 foot Whitehorse Slabs in what seemed like 20 minutes, an amazing amount of great climbing in such a short time.  

However, once I had a daughter I totally gave it up. Not worth leaving her behind without a father. I do still occasionally do highball boulder problems after TR rehearsal. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Obviously some of you don't really understand climbing

Well thank god we have you here Nick to explain it to us!

;)

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Obviously some of you don't really understand climbing..  climbing without a rope is pure movement..  

I agree with you about the freedom of climbing ropeless, but disagree that climbers who question soloing don’t really understand climbing. I think humans flow along a vast spectrum of understanding, knowledge, and belief.   Some may find Mr Gill’s “quintessential lightness of being” through bouldering, some will find it soloing, and some through top roping, and it all is unique for each individual. As with most subjects, I think conversations lead to finding some common themes in our attempt to navigate life and find meaning and purpose. 

I wish everyone a great weekend. 

I was simply going from the comments of one poster who passed judgement on all solo climbers. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

I was simply going from the comments of one poster who passed judgement on all solo climbers. 

I enjoy your willingness to state your position, and often agree even though my climbing experience is less. 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

I was simply going from the comments of one poster who passed judgement on all solo climbers. 

It's all good, man!

Your comment, "Obviously some of you don't really understand climbing" just cracked me up.

Guess I'm growing sensitive to old white dudes telling me what I do and do not understand and what I should think.

Cannot imagine why???

;)

And as an old white dude myself, I really try to check myself to make sure I don't do this.  My kiddos are SOOOO GREAT at keeping me in-line!  

If you do not, I suggest that you hang out with teenagers and young 20's and develop a peer relationship of equals with them.  They will keep you honest!  At least, they sure try to do that with me!

^^ C. Miller, from Vivian Creek parking walk south up a drainage towards Yucaipa Ridge. Big square boulder up there. Mile or less. Seemed untouched when I found it 2010. 

I get it. that was a stay off my lawn comment from someone who really does try to  be inclusive.   there are certainly people soloing to get attention and that's a terminal condition called WMS. Anyone pushing their grades without a rope is on a death wish weather they admit it or not.. Folks who solo lots of miles on stuff they have dialed and or is well below their onsite level are experiencing a freedom that most folks simply can't fathom.  Fritz Weisner soloed into his 80's . Peter Croft is almost certainly still soloing and enjoying life. Donnini was soloing regularly in his mid 70's if not later.  It can be done for meditation without trying to get your name in the glossy rags.  Certainly in cold weather where slow partners and belays can freeze you into a coma soloing is quite liberating.  I suspect that most of what Alex solo's these days  is stuff he has dialed or stuff that is in his comfort zone. I think he is a good person and hope he can dial it down to sane levels and stay alive.... 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

I get it. that was a stay off my lawn comment from someone who really does try to  be inclusive.   there are certainly people soloing to get attention and that's a terminal condition called WMS. Anyone pushing their grades without a rope is on a death wish weather they admit it or not.. Folks who solo lots of miles on stuff they have dialed and or is well below their onsite level are experiencing a freedom that most folks simply can't fathom.  Fritz Weisner soloed into his 80's . Peter Croft is almost certainly still soloing and enjoying life. Donnini was soloing regularly in his mid 70's if not later.  It can be done for meditation without trying to get your name in the glossy rags.  Certainly in cold weather where slow partners and belays can freeze you into a coma soloing is quite liberating.  I suspect that most of what Alex solo's these days  is stuff he has dialed or stuff that is in his comfort zone. I think he is a good person and hope he can dial it down to sane levels and stay alive.... 

All climbing is dangerous but I don't think soloing routes you have wired that are well below your limit is exceptionally so. That being said of the 5 people I knew who died climbing one of them was soloing. Of the others, two were rappelling accidents, one was failing to finish a knot and the other was a cleaning error. The root cause of the last 4 was complacency which has probably killed more climbers than anything else. And, at least in my personal experience you don't get complacent when soloing even on easy stuff.