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what factors affect finger greasiness for the same person + same conditions

Original Post
Sergey Shelukhin · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15

More of an idle question really. I had an ankle injury so I'm spending a lot of time on Metolius Simulator.

I am the same guy, not usually too sweaty, ~same temp in humidity (thermostat 5ft from the board), fan on, brushing, same chalk bag, same hold sequence, same warmup. Nobody else using this board. Same time of day even (before lunch), washing hands well with soap before the workout. Most importantly, my performance on crimps between days is the same or getting better over time.

However on the 45 degree slopers, some days it feels almost casual to do 6x6sec hangs, and some days I'm greasing off and cannot even hang for 6 seconds once.

Why would that be? Again an idle question, but I wonder if there's smth simple I'm missing.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I find that I'm simply hotter/sweatier/have more skin oils on some days than others. Diet, physical condition, amount of sleep, something as simple as relative humidity (can a few percentages make a difference?)? Who knows, I have no other explanation.

You want the snarky answer? Stop eating so much fried chicken!   

Rew Exo · · Mammoth Lakes / Bishop · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 199
Sergey Shelukhinwrote:

I am the same guy

Have you tried being a different guy?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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