Ten Sleep guidebook opinions

This spaceship one is the newest, but the Huey ones are well known for being awesome. The 3D Huey-bible version from 2015 looks particularly rad, but I'm wondering if anyone has any good beta on if I should just go with the latest or if the 2015 is super good enough.

I don’t know what is best but the spaceship guidebook is pretty good.  Just be prepared for descriptions that are wacky and tell you little about some climbs and dismissal of any routes suspected of containing chipped holds.

I was wondering this myself. The spaceship guidebook is a continuation of the Aaron Huey guidebooks, according to the introduction. Same wacky vibe. I was flipping through it in a store yesterday.

Last time I was in ten sleep we used the Louie Anderson book, which I see now has a second edition.

Both books beg the question: if there’s a bolting ban in the canyon, why do we need new books? Maybe there’s a simple answer to this question, this is not an area I’m very familiar with.

Yeah the spaceship guidebook functionally is the Huey guidebook. A lot of descriptions are the exact same from the Bible. Just has some additional new routes from previous versions. Highly recommend it over the Louie book for both coverage, information, and full on belly laughs when reading at the crag

The spaceship includes routes not found in other guides as well as updated details on local digs, closures, etc

 if there’s a bolting ban in the canyon, why do we need new books?

Was thinking the same thing, but... who am I to question a group of local Wyoming climbers? ᖍ(ツ)ᖌ as far as I could tell, the last one before this (spaceship = 2023) is the 2019 Huey... and 2019 is when they put the moratorium for bolting...

Regardless of you opinions on Louie, his guidebook is excellent.  For actual practical use, its better than the Huey books, including photo quality.  There's some stoke to be had in that sucker.

That being said, I own the Ten Sleep Bible and its maybe my favorite guidebook.  Definitely more fun and has more character. 

Charlie Gwrote:

Was thinking the same thing, but... who am I to question a group of local Wyoming climbers? ᖍ(ツ)ᖌ as far as I could tell, the last one before this (spaceship = 2023) is the 2019 Huey... and 2019 is when they put the moratorium for bolting...

It’s a little suspicious that Louie’s guidebook has “hundreds of new routes” yet Huey’s book hasn’t included hardly any new routes since the moratorium, now isn’t it? lol 

Brennan VanDykewrote:

Regardless of you opinions on Louie, his guidebook is excellent.  For actual practical use, its better than the Huey books, including photo quality.  There's some stoke to be had in that sucker.

As someone who has photos published in Louie’s book (as well as Huey’s) I would have to sternly disagree. There are more than one of my photos, along with other photographers, in Louie’s book that are mislabeled in one way or another. So much so that you won’t see any of my photos in his new guide.

@OP: With that said, Louie’s guidebook is just as useful as Huey’s, albeit with more blatant errors. Huey’s book at least prefaces by saying it’s all lies and propaganda. If you have half of a brain, both books will get you to 99% of the routes. Huey’s being entertaining along the way. 

Daniel Kaywrote:

Both books beg the question: if there’s a bolting ban in the canyon, why do we need new books? Maybe there’s a simple answer to this question, this is not an area I’m very familiar with.

Louie created a new guidebook because he wants to boost his ego and has also been (not so secretly) developing in some local new canyons. Curious as to if he blatantly published the FA dates of routes that were done during the moratorium or if they are conveniently left without an FA date.

The aerospace society keeps releasing new guidebook because they are petty and want a guidebook to “rival” Louie’s. The routes and route descriptions have not changed for the last 3 iterations. Many route descriptions are even verbatim from the original Mondo Beyondo “guidebook” some of us old heads are still in possession of.

Not sure how many of the new routes in if Louie’s new book are actually old areas never published though (such as the Octagon or Tyrrell). I know the rakkup guide has “new” areas included like this that are actually older areas that were never published. 

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

As someone who has photos published in Louie’s book (as well as Huey’s) I would have to sternly disagree. There are more than one of my photos, along with other photographers, in Louie’s book that are mislabeled in one way or another. So much so that you won’t see any of my photos in his new guide.

Didn't look too closely at the labels, mostly just browsed the thing.  I guess I would just say you and your compatriots photos are psych inducing regardless of the labelling... 

Brennan VanDykewrote:

Didn't look too closely at the labels, mostly just browsed the thing.  I guess I would just say you and your compatriots photos are psych inducing regardless of the labelling... 

Lol thanks, my understanding is Louie has contributed a much larger number of photos in the new guidebook either way. I’m getting old but I seem to remember him getting out and shooting a shit ton when he had his arm injury a couple summers ago. To his credit, he takes decently aesthetic photos. 

I’ve always felt Louie’s books were better functionality and practicality wise 

Dane Bwrote:

I’ve always felt Louie’s books were better functionality and practicality wise 

I’m obviously not going to argue against your opinion but I’m curious as to if anyone has compared the amount of objective errors/misinformation between the two. I know Huey’s guide has several routes that are rather ambiguous (that’s being generous) with bolt count whereas there are several routes in Louie’s that are completely misgraded. I’ve used both and found routes and areas just as easily/difficult to find as the other. Can’t go right, or wrong, with either. Just depends on who you want the perception of supporting I suppose lol 

First off, I’m grateful for this conversation and insight.

That said, it’s made me want to buy the Huey Bible version just because it’s cool af lol

you are going to need a hit of acid or a few caps to speak it's language   

I have a hard time looking at the spaceship and other Huey guides. I'm a bit ADHD and I can't focus on it at all. The layout is honestly atrocious as far as the typeface and design. A bummer because I'd rather give my money to access fund and the Huey guide, but seriously, it's not for everyone.