SF Bay Area - Bad Bolts

Hey Michael - I'm the East Bay Steward for the BACC.  Yes, we are still monitoring this thread!  (I've just turned on email notifications, so I'll be monitoring it even more closely now.) If you can add the issues to badbolts.com as well, that would be awesome!

~Will

Michael Swallowwrote:

Does BACC still monitor this? If not, best recommendations as to where to report issues around here, ASCA, etc?

At Salt Point, two routes on Conch and one on buttress were missing hangers (bolts still in place) as of April 2023.

Hi Michael,

Those are old 316SS wedge bolts. They aren't safe. The area needs rebolting with TI.

The anchors on Aloha Patrol are in rough shape. Most of the hangers spin. At least one of the anchor bolts on the first pitch can be freely turned with your hand. I also noticed when rapping from the second pitch anchors that they both flexed as my partner weighted them. It's an awesome route that deserves more traffic, but it should probably also be looked over by someone.

Thanks for the heads up Nick, I'll pass this on to the RIM club who keeps an eye on the far north bay region.

Chris Summit replaced three 316ss wedge bolts on The Nautilus (at The Playground) With 12mm Ti wedge bolts.

On Aloha Patrol we replaced 12 of the worst bolts (left anchor bolt atop 1st pitch was wiggled out with no tools!) The new bolts are 5/8” x 6” ss twist-leg glue-ins. Thanks Kim Pfabe and Patrick Lerchi for the help!

There are three bolts on top of Billy Goat Rock (I think in the range of Bridwell Bolt Route and Permanent Erection) that do not have hangers.  Are these bolts in the same category as the ones on the top of Swiss cheese that sometimes have hangers and sometimes don't?  Is there some sort of alternate anchor that should be used for these two climbs?  Are the studs themself safe to use? Can we bring hangers, nuts and a wrench and make use of them for the session?

matwrote:

There are three bolts on top of Billy Goat Rock (I think in the range of Bridwell Bolt Route and Permanent Erection) that do not have hangers.  Are these bolts in the same category as the ones on the top of Swiss cheese that sometimes have hangers and sometimes don't?  Is there some sort of alternate anchor that should be used for these two climbs?  Are the studs themself safe to use? Can we bring hangers, nuts and a wrench and make use of them for the session?

Hi, there are plans to rebolt all the routes on Goat Rock and Billy Goat rock with glue-ins. Many of them have been missing hangers for a while.  

Hopefully we will have the work done before the end of this year.