Best Crack Climbs in New England??
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Hey everyone! I'm curious what everyone's favorite crack climbs are in New England? I live in Maine, and it seems like choss and slab can be found at virtually any crag, but a really clean crack is always a gift! My favorites so far are: They died laughing, in Cathedral NH Reppys Crack, Cannon Cliffs NH Bombardment, also Cathedral NH What are yalls favorites?? Let me know! |
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Hand Crack - House Rock - Weymouth. Surprisingly pleasant granite crack climb in a glacial deposit. It’s miracle this rock wasn’t blown to bits for a foundation. |
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The thorn and the rose in vermont are excellent, so is blackjack crack.
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Yosemite Crack, Peapod, Barndoor, Jones Crack, Bulletproof--all at Farley Ledge in MA. |
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My thoughts on some (~5.9) cracks: Vertigo at Cannon might be one of the best .9s in the northeast, along with Hard Times and a Touch of Class on Moss Cliff in the Daks
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Toe Crack (Cathedral) Leafspring.. splitter OW below Cathedral |
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Alan Rubinwrote: I came here to say these, but Alan beat me to it! |
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Although not New England, Last Frontier at the Gunks demands proper crack technique with jams above your head! Great route. |
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Duet Direct on Cannon and Crack in the Woods |
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Lots of good crack climbs on the CT 'traprock', though many are climbed as much as face climbs as they are as cracks, still routes such as Cat Crack at East Peak, Unconquerable and Tower Cracks at Ragged ( there are many others in the area) are short but excellent climbs with plenty of 'crack'. |
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Maxwell Hvolbekwrote: Vertigo is another incredible one, how could I forget! |
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On Cathedral alone: Airation, Pine Tree Eliminate, Diedre, Nutcracker, Nomad Crack, and Lichen Delight all come immediately to mind. Edited to add Jack the Ripper. Vultures on Sundown Ledge is also a good one, albeit short. |
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Greens Cliff has amazing high quality cracks like Stewart’s, Beanstalk and Greenpeace to name a few.
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your namesake in Averill, VT has great clean cracks in Black Mtn https://www.mountainproject.com/area/112920189/black-mountain |
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The Precipice in Acadia NP has quite a few really good cracks with a broad range of grades: Old Town (7), Recollection of Pacifica (9), Emigrant Crack (10b), Dynamo Hum (10d), Connecticut Cracks (11a), High Wire (11c), Small Crack Warning (12a) just to name some of the most classic. Bonus: it's a beautiful place! |
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Peanut gallery flake in cathedral ledge. Epic exposure and glory hands into OW |
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Unconquerable Crack, Thor's Hammer and Dol Guldur all in CT on the lovely Trapp Rock. |
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"Inferno" and "Tranquilty" over on the S Butt of Whitehorse are pretty good moderates. |
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Intimidation on Cathedral Ledge offers much crack climbing, in combination with face holds.. The pitch off bonfire ledge is really steller, following a crack system the entire way. Another all ready mentioned is Nutcracker, one of my favorites. |
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I second "Crack in the Woods" and definitely look into "Heat Wave" at Pawtuckaway |
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Another vote for Crack in the Woods and Airation for pure jamming. Less travelled, but I thought the alternate second pitch of Intimidation was pretty good-- go up and right from the first belay though some steep juggy climbing to a longish splitter hand crack. At a lower grade, Go West Young Man at White Ledge is a great 100+ foot finger crack on a slab that goes at 5.6 or so. |




