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Best Crack Climbs in New England??

Original Post
Harry Averill · · Bangor, ME · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 30

Hey everyone!

I'm curious what everyone's favorite crack climbs are in New England? I live in Maine, and it seems like choss and slab can be found at virtually any crag, but a really clean crack is always a gift!

My favorites so far are:

They died laughing, in Cathedral NH

Reppys Crack, Cannon Cliffs NH

Bombardment, also Cathedral NH

What are yalls favorites?? Let me know!

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168

Hand Crack - House Rock - Weymouth. Surprisingly pleasant granite crack climb in a glacial deposit. It’s miracle this rock wasn’t blown to bits for a foundation.


https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106698323/hand-crack

Nicholas Budka · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 15

The thorn and the rose in vermont are excellent, so is blackjack crack.


 A short drive from vermont deposits you in the adirondacks with magnificent crags like pokeomoonshine and the spider’s web, among others. The web hosts cracks like fear and loathing in keene valley, zabba, drop fly or die, its only entertainment, romano’s route, and ku klux ken. Pokeo has gems like the sting, gamesmanship and the fastest gun.  Gamesmanship is only classic due to its length, a full length 5 pitch roadside climb is a rarity in the region and it is clean, but the quality of climbing pales in comparison to the gems in my list here. 

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Yosemite Crack, Peapod, Barndoor, Jones Crack, Bulletproof--all at Farley Ledge in MA.

Maxwell Hvolbek · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 10

My thoughts on some (~5.9) cracks:

Vertigo at Cannon might be one of the best .9s in the northeast, along with Hard Times and a Touch of Class on Moss Cliff in the Daks


single pitch, there’s a ton, but Little Kisses at Lost T and Mystery Achievement at Good Luck mountain in the Daks might be up there for the “best” cleanest single pitch cracks  

Boreal Strut · · NH · Joined May 2025 · Points: 10

Toe Crack (Cathedral)

Leafspring.. splitter OW below Cathedral 

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,385
Alan Rubinwrote:

Yosemite Crack, Peapod, Barndoor, Jones Crack, Bulletproof--all at Farley Ledge in MA.

I came here to say these, but Alan beat me to it!

Suz Zak · · NY, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 50

Although not New England, Last Frontier at the Gunks demands proper crack technique with jams above your head! Great route.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

Duet Direct on Cannon and Crack in the Woods

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Lots of good crack climbs on the CT 'traprock', though many are climbed as much as face climbs as they are as cracks, still routes such as Cat Crack at East Peak, Unconquerable and Tower Cracks at Ragged ( there are many others in the area) are short but excellent climbs with plenty of 'crack'.
Another excellent crack with face holds is Endeavor to Persevere at Reservoir Rocks, Great Barrington, MA. I have a recollection that there is also a good crack at Eisner Rocks across the valley from Endeavor, but forget the name, as well as Berkshire Sampler on Bung Hill also in Great Barrington, though be careful to avoid trespassing there.
And then there are Cro-Magnon, Jane, Tarzan and others at Crow Hill. The list keeps growing as I type.

Harry Averill · · Bangor, ME · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 30
Maxwell Hvolbekwrote:

My thoughts on some (~5.9) cracks:

Vertigo at Cannon might be one of the best .9s in the northeast, along with Hard Times and a Touch of Class on Moss Cliff in the Daks


single pitch, there’s a ton, but Little Kisses at Lost T and Mystery Achievement at Good Luck mountain in the Daks might be up there for the “best” cleanest single pitch cracks  

Vertigo is another incredible one, how could I forget!

Edge · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,626

On Cathedral alone: Airation, Pine Tree Eliminate, Diedre, Nutcracker, Nomad Crack, and Lichen Delight all come immediately to mind. Edited to add Jack the Ripper.

Vultures on Sundown Ledge is also a good one, albeit short. 

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 577

Greens Cliff has amazing high quality cracks like Stewart’s, Beanstalk and Greenpeace to name a few.


Also Bandit at Band M is a diamond in the rough.

Andy R · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 46

your namesake in Averill, VT has great clean cracks in Black Mtn

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/112920189/black-mountain

proto G · · Falmouth (MA) · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 219

The Precipice in Acadia NP has quite a few really good cracks with a broad range of grades: Old Town (7), Recollection of Pacifica (9), Emigrant Crack (10b), Dynamo Hum (10d), Connecticut Cracks (11a), High Wire (11c), Small Crack Warning (12a) just to name some of the most classic. Bonus: it's a beautiful place!

szheng · · New York, NY · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 253

Peanut gallery flake in cathedral ledge. Epic exposure and glory hands into OW

Abby M · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 72

Unconquerable Crack, Thor's Hammer and Dol Guldur all in CT on the lovely Trapp Rock. 

DGoguen · · Conway NH · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 65

"Inferno" and "Tranquilty" over on the S Butt of Whitehorse are pretty good moderates.

stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 73

Intimidation on Cathedral Ledge offers much crack climbing, in combination with face holds.. The pitch off bonfire ledge is really steller, following a crack system the entire way.  Another all ready mentioned is Nutcracker, one of my favorites.

Ryan Loiselle · · Pepperell, MA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 3,472

I second "Crack in the Woods" and definitely look into "Heat Wave" at Pawtuckaway

John Goodlander · · NH · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 1,042

Another vote for Crack in the Woods and Airation for pure jamming. Less travelled, but I thought the alternate second pitch of Intimidation was pretty good-- go up and right from the first belay though some steep juggy climbing to a longish splitter hand crack. 

At a lower grade, Go West Young Man at White Ledge is a great 100+ foot finger crack on a slab that goes at 5.6 or so. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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